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Anybody buffing their stummels with red tripoli?

Currently I only buff my stems with it, but I am wondering if I should start buffing the stummel too. I just can't get the level of shine that I want from the stummel. So my thought was that if I buffed the stummel the way I buff the stem, that I might get a better shine on the stummel.

Any thoughts or opinions on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

I'm not familiar with how coarse red is, but if it is an aggressive compound you can actually make waves in the wood if you over buff.

I know of no maker that uses red compound, but many get a very excellent mirror finish. While experimenting with another compound would interesting and insightful, I don't think its necessary for the shine you're after. It would seems you are doing something wrong with the "normal" procedure, and I'd investigate that first.

In other words, I doubt the red will be a cure for what ails you. If you give it a try though, let us know how it goes.

Tyler

P.S. Not all white compounds are created equally, nor are buffs. When I bought new buffs and compounds about half-way through my "career", the work required to get the finish I wanted got easier by 10 fold. Apparently I stumbled on to MUCH better stuff the second time around.

Hey Tyler,

Yeah, I am not convinced that the compound is the answer either. I think I am just grasping at straws. I think my problem realy lies in the buffs. What kind of buffs did you get the improved results with?

Forget the stuff you find at Lowes or Home Depot - those are pure crap.

I use the buffs from Delvies. They're consistent, have a uniform surface, are non-aggressive, and are easily shaped to your needs.
http://shorterlink.org/1168

Thanks Kurt.

I have been wanting to move up to 8" buffs. I have been using 6" buffs.

Thanks for the link I will have to get a few of those ordered.

Thanks,

I think the level of shine is also a function of the level of sanding you have done in prepping for the buff. What grit sanding are you doing?

Hey Craig,

I sand up to 1500 grit.

That should surely be more than adequate to create a very smooth and polish-ready finish. :dunno:

Yeah, I get a smooth finish, I just don't get the gloss I would like.

I'm finding it ironic that I had just tried the red tripoli today, being the only compound I had. Up till now I've been doing the micromesh thing and my shoulder and fingers are tiring.

I generally use regular sand papers to 600 grit and start the micromesh thing from there but today i decided to walk to Ace and get a buffing wheel and take the easy way out. All they had were 4" wheels and red tripoli. When I was finished there was no doubt it looked liked I had waxed it but it I wasn't really very happy with the results, however, as it left a red gleam like I had stained it a light red mahagony. I stained over the top of this finish and it seemed to soak in ok but I had to apply more coats to get it to start to soak in better. I'll have a thread on this pipe as it was my first customer pipe sold today. :thumb:

I tried on another stummel that was only sanded to 220 grit and in a bright light you could really make out the hair line scratches that remained after buffing. So it's definitly not the answer to a faster polish from paper.

I'm looking into the white polishing compounds as I believe these will not tarnish the surface and give me a true coloring of the stain I choose. Bigger buffing pads are also on the list.

Thanks for all the shopping links. I think my favorites folder has 3 pages saved now for pipes and supplies.

I tried red tripoli on the first couple pipes I made, before I found this site, and it was a disaster! The red will definitely tint the stummel, and its nearly impossible to get out. The good thing with the red is you'll definitely know if you've got scratches on the stummel! I stick with brown tripoli and white diamond. This reminds me.... I need to buy some better buffs!

David

Ah...now that stories are coming out my memory is stirred and I remember why red is not a good choice for pipe buffing. It turns everything red.

On another note, if done well at each grit, super high grit sanding will not improve the final finish. Reiner Barbi has incredible finishes on his pipes -- rivalling the best in the world -- and the finest grit he uses is 400. Now his methods are are not standard -- he has some tricks up his sleeve -- but that is the highest grit he uses.

Tyler

I've been using 00 steel wool between each sanding to bring the stummel to a high shine so I can see the rough spots easier. I keep a spotlight just over my left shoulder to help see better and the shine from the steel wool really helps in finding those rough spots.

Tyler wrote:On another note, if done well at each grit, super high grit sanding will not improve the final finish.

But it gives you such a good hand and arm workout!

I do agree though, although I'm far from an expert, the one thing I don't have to worry about is my finish. And I sand to 800. And it cuts a lot of time off making one of these darn things!

FWIW, I usually went to 800 also. I learned Barbi's tricks at my "retirement" Chicago show.

Tyler wrote:FWIW, I usually went to 800 also. I learned Barbi's tricks at my "retirement" Chicago show.

Hi Tyler,

If I remember correctly, Rainer said that he sanded to 320 grit before using "sanding sealer" and finishing.

Rad

I don't remember the exact grit stages, but he sanded up to 320 or 400 (on a 2 x 72 belt sander), sanding sealer, then a worn 400 belt (or maybe normal 400 before the worn). Then the standard buff routine.

Hello all, newbie here. Sorry to bring up a older post but I've been doing what all good newbies should before posting: reading and searching. However this topic forced me to ask a question. I have always used sanding sealer for fishing lures but never thought it would be expectable practice with pipes, isn’t there a fear of the chemicals in the sealer tainting taste or even being unhealthy?