Cure for idiocy?

[sethile]

I normally do a lot of my stem work by hand after roughing in the taper or what have you of the basic shape on the lathe and belt sander. This morning I was thinking I could likely get away with doing more of the fine flatening/thining work behind the bit on the 1" belt sander, and there by cuting down on the time it takes to do the hand work with the file and sand paper. WRONG

Feverishly working toward getting another pipe or two done for Chicago and trying to save a little time that way proved to be a big huge mistake. Hours of work down the drain on what was going to be a really beautiful stem that perfectly matched the Bulldog I was working on. I sanded right into the air hole

Hoping I can salvage the pipe with a new stem, but the final shape of the stem/shank area was already set when this idiocy struck, so it will be really tough. I hate it when I get in a hurry. It never ever ever pays

Perhaps this will teach me yet another good lesson

[Heinz_D]

Scott,

don't be annoyed at that too much. I managed the same mishap with file and emery cloth...

But I'm now using a sanding disc and it works rather good... I only make the bit first with files before I shape the stem with the disc. I use sanding discs, which are a little bit too large and overlap a few millimeters. With the edge of the disc I shape the stem. I'm using 120 and 240 grid for that. It's quick and rather exact. At last I use emery cloth up to 400 grid for acrylic and 600 grid for vulcanit. (Acrylic doesn't need to be grinded too 600, because with polishing the little scratches "melt" blanc.)

Unfortunatlely I don't have a belt sander, but I'll try it as soon as I've one...


Best regards,

Heinz

[magruder]

Scott,

My heart goes out to you. I,too, have sanded thru several stems in the past and it is ALWAYS after the shank/stem dimensions are set.

I have given up on trying to use a 1" belt for fine stem work. It's just too easy to have the edge dig in and ruin your work. I have resigned myself to using the shaping disc for the roughing in and files for the final shaping. I get very impatient with filing too.

Hang in there and good luck. I hope to meet you in Chicago this year.

Best,
Steven Magruder Morrisette

[StephenDownie]

I guess I'm in the minority here I use a 1 inch belt sander for shaping my bits and buttons and find it saves me a ton of time. I usually leave a 1/16 drill bit in the bit to let me know how close I am to the airway. I can't say I've ever sanded through to the airway yet.

[magruder]

Stephen,
Using a drill bit that way is a great idea. Obviously, you are more careful/skilled than I!
See you in Chicago.
Best,
Steven Magruder Morrisette

[marks]

I also use a 1 inch belt sander for rough shaping, and I usually leave a drill bit in the draft hole at the button, but I use it as a hold instead of a guide.

I keep from going into the airway by measuring the thickness of the stem just behind the button. I also measure the distance from the uncut disc (that will eventually be the button) to the cut portion of the stem, ensuring that I have removed the same amount of material from both the top and bottom of the stem. For most dimensions of the stem (including button) I will rough cut to approximately 1, 2, or 3 thousanths of an inch to final thickness. Now, this is rough work, so there is still a lot of hand finishing left to be done.

Works for me.

[LexKY_Pipe]

Sorry Scott

A well-known pipe maker says that stems on pipes are analogous to tires on cars. When they wear out, you have to replace them. From that advice, I always try to make my shank/stem connection with the thought--someday, I might have to replace this stem. It helps me not to get too wild or fancy at that point.