Bamboo Procedure?

staffwalker · Post by **staffwalker** » Sat May 26, 2007 3:00 pm

Hi, I had always thought one extended the s'steel tube completely through the bamboo from stem to strummel but after reading Kurt's method, posted here, and reading Tyler's on his site I am no longer sure. If I am reading both methods correctly you guys use ss only on each end of the bamboo to made the various connections, tenons, etc. Is this correct? If this is correct may I ask why not use enough tube to go completely through the bamboo from stem to strummel?

bob gilbert

Tano · Post by **Tano** » Sat May 26, 2007 10:35 pm

I would think that the cost of stainless steel has something to do with it. I'm I correct?

bscofield · Post by **bscofield** » Sun May 27, 2007 12:01 am

you do NOT extend the SS tubing through the bamboo! The bamboo is a wonderful moisture absorber! And you don't want to eliminate that potential by using the SS tubing (which is not very expensive). I use brass tubing, btw.

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Sun May 27, 2007 12:54 am

Ben's answer is a good one. The only thing I can add is weight. One reason for using bamboo is to make the pipe very light. Adding a metal tube the length of the bamboo is unnecessary weight.

David

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sun May 27, 2007 12:36 pm

It's not really a weight reason - the SS tube is so light that it doesn't add a significant amount of weight. I use the stuff from McMaster Carr that has a 3/16 OD and 5/32 ID - very lightweight.

Believe it or not, but the biggest reason I do not use a full length SS liner in the bamboo is because it's such a royal PITA to make the hole straight enough to easily slip a tube all the way through. And the fact that bamboo is a great moisture absorber is the icing on the cake.

bscofield · Post by **bscofield** » Sun May 27, 2007 6:27 pm

KurtHuhn wrote:It's not really a weight reason - the SS tube is so light that it doesn't add a significant amount of weight. I use the stuff from McMaster Carr that has a 3/16 OD and 5/32 ID - very lightweight.

Believe it or not, but the biggest reason I do not use a full length SS liner in the bamboo is because it's such a royal PITA to make the hole straight enough to easily slip a tube all the way through. And the fact that bamboo is a great moisture absorber is the icing on the cake.

That's true! Some of the coolest looking bamboo pipes have curved bamboo shanks. Not too terribly difficult to drill, I wouldn't imagine, but hard enough to thread with a metal tube.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Mon May 28, 2007 2:43 am

From what I understand, the stuff used for pipes is actually rattan, not hollow bamboo. Not sure about that, though.

Since it is fairly flexible, I clamp the curved ones between 2 pieces of wood to straighten it out when drilling. After it's drilled & removed from clamping, it returns to its curved shape.

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Mon May 28, 2007 10:14 am

Hi Frank,

The stuff used for pipes is actually the rhizome (root) of the bamboo. Looks just like small bamboo but not hollow.

Rad

achduliebe · Post by **achduliebe** » Tue May 29, 2007 1:44 pm

Better known in the bamboo world as Wangi.

staffwalker · Post by **staffwalker** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:35 pm

Question, how do you sand the junction of bamboo/strummel, bamboo/stem. Is the bamboo sandable without messing up the outer sheath.

bob gilbert

bscofield · Post by **bscofield** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 12:05 am

sand it with no heavier grit than 400. For my first I used a sanding disc to get it down to size and then VERY carefully made it even with a file. Then 400 grit.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:51 pm

staffwalker wrote:Question, how do you sand the junction of bamboo/strummel, bamboo/stem. Is the bamboo sandable without messing up the outer sheath.

Very, very carefully.

In all seriousness, I start that shaping on my belt grinder at 120 grit, then move to 180 and 220 discs. You just have to be very careful at that junction and keep a very close eye on the contract surfaces at all times.