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Hi, I had always thought one extended the s'steel tube completely through the bamboo from stem to strummel but after reading Kurt's method, posted here, and reading Tyler's on his site I am no longer sure. If I am reading both methods correctly you guys use ss only on each end of the bamboo to made the various connections, tenons, etc. Is this correct? If this is correct may I ask why not use enough tube to go completely through the bamboo from stem to strummel?

bob gilbert

I would think that the cost of stainless steel has something to do with it. I'm I correct?

you do NOT extend the SS tubing through the bamboo! The bamboo is a wonderful moisture absorber! And you don't want to eliminate that potential by using the SS tubing (which is not very expensive). I use brass tubing, btw.

Ben's answer is a good one. The only thing I can add is weight. One reason for using bamboo is to make the pipe very light. Adding a metal tube the length of the bamboo is unnecessary weight.

David

It's not really a weight reason - the SS tube is so light that it doesn't add a significant amount of weight. I use the stuff from McMaster Carr that has a 3/16 OD and 5/32 ID - very lightweight.

Believe it or not, but the biggest reason I do not use a full length SS liner in the bamboo is because it's such a royal PITA to make the hole straight enough to easily slip a tube all the way through. And the fact that bamboo is a great moisture absorber is the icing on the cake.

KurtHuhn wrote:It's not really a weight reason - the SS tube is so light that it doesn't add a significant amount of weight. I use the stuff from McMaster Carr that has a 3/16 OD and 5/32 ID - very lightweight.

Believe it or not, but the biggest reason I do not use a full length SS liner in the bamboo is because it's such a royal PITA to make the hole straight enough to easily slip a tube all the way through. And the fact that bamboo is a great moisture absorber is the icing on the cake.

That's true! Some of the coolest looking bamboo pipes have curved bamboo shanks. Not too terribly difficult to drill, I wouldn't imagine, but hard enough to thread with a metal tube.

From what I understand, the stuff used for pipes is actually rattan, not hollow bamboo. Not sure about that, though.

Since it is fairly flexible, I clamp the curved ones between 2 pieces of wood to straighten it out when drilling. After it's drilled & removed from clamping, it returns to its curved shape.

Hi Frank,

The stuff used for pipes is actually the rhizome (root) of the bamboo. Looks just like small bamboo but not hollow.

Rad

Better known in the bamboo world as Wangi.

Question, how do you sand the junction of bamboo/strummel, bamboo/stem. Is the bamboo sandable without messing up the outer sheath.

bob gilbert

sand it with no heavier grit than 400. For my first I used a sanding disc to get it down to size and then VERY carefully made it even with a file. Then 400 grit.

staffwalker wrote:Question, how do you sand the junction of bamboo/strummel, bamboo/stem. Is the bamboo sandable without messing up the outer sheath.

Very, very carefully.

In all seriousness, I start that shaping on my belt grinder at 120 grit, then move to 180 and 220 discs. You just have to be very careful at that junction and keep a very close eye on the contract surfaces at all times.