Scraping stems
Scraping stems
I searched for this a number of different ways, but couldn't seem to find it. I understand the process completely, just curious about the tool used. In the posts I've read a "razor sharp knife" has been the suggested tool. My question is, would a razor sharp razor work just as well? Thanks!
Matt
Matt
I use what is called a "chip knife" but you could make a suitable knife out of a file for that ever popular "prison shank" look.
Letter E is what I use:
Letter E is what I use:
John
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Any little sharp knife will do the most important it that it is thick enough not to
"wiggle " from the craping and small enough to fit different uses..a razor is to thin
scraping the stem can really speed up sanding as properly used and sharpened it can take out all the scraches from a rough file quickly and you can then start your sanding at 240
We use the smallest carving knife commonly used i think it has a 2,5 cm long blade
"wiggle " from the craping and small enough to fit different uses..a razor is to thin
scraping the stem can really speed up sanding as properly used and sharpened it can take out all the scraches from a rough file quickly and you can then start your sanding at 240
We use the smallest carving knife commonly used i think it has a 2,5 cm long blade
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Basically, lathe files are:
- edge safe
- fast material removal
- produce a smooth surface
Mill files, on the other hand:
- not edge safe
- very fast material removal
- produce a rough surface
Also, Mill files can be used in draw filing operations, while lathe files don't lend themselves well to that (at least in my experience).
- edge safe
- fast material removal
- produce a smooth surface
Mill files, on the other hand:
- not edge safe
- very fast material removal
- produce a rough surface
Also, Mill files can be used in draw filing operations, while lathe files don't lend themselves well to that (at least in my experience).
I've never done any scraping either. I tried it a couple of times with some of my carving knives, but I just seemed to gouge and chip the material, so obviously the must be some art to it. I just use files.
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- Tyler
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The idea is it takes less work.hazmat wrote:I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I even want to try it. I've always seemed to get a decent finish with files and sandpaper, no need to add another step if it doesn't add anything but more work. We'll see what happens.
You simple hold the knife perpendicular to the surface you are scraping, and scrape. I don't know why some are having trouble with the process. It makes quick work of removing file marks, and lets me start the sanding at 220 and doesn't leave a lot of work at 220.
Tyler
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It's unclear to me how scraping could actually leave marks, but I trust that it has for some.KurtHuhn wrote:When I tried it a couple years back, the process actually left *more* marks than a fine-cut file. Maybe my file-work is just as developed as some folks' knife-work?
That said, I'd bet that variances in file types and quality has a lot to do with the different results people are seeing directly off the file.
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The most accelerated "boost" I've got in shaping and finishing stems was from the use of "spongy" fingernal files, like the one's on Kurt's photo essay regarding hand cut stems. They can be found easily in grits up to 600, probably higher than that if someone had a good speciality shop around. Those will make QUICK work of file marks.Tyler wrote:The idea is it takes less work.hazmat wrote:I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I even want to try it. I've always seemed to get a decent finish with files and sandpaper, no need to add another step if it doesn't add anything but more work. We'll see what happens.
You simple hold the knife perpendicular to the surface you are scraping, and scrape. I don't know why some are having trouble with the process. It makes quick work of removing file marks, and lets me start the sanding at 220 and doesn't leave a lot of work at 220.
Tyler
Well, see, sometimes it's the simplest things! When I'd tried scraping before, I was always naturally assuming it was scraping like whittling; that is to say, with the edge at an angle. Holding it perpendicular works great. I just finished my first scraped stem and it came out quite well. Very handy for careful shaping and adjustments.
Happy Smoking,
Trever Talbert
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Trever Talbert
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I thought the same thing. Tyler told me about that tip 2 years ago or more and I dismissed it because I thought whittling a stem would take forever. Then my buddy Adam demonstrated it to me and I was sold. Should have listend to Tyler years ago but you never know with that guy.TreverT wrote:Well, see, sometimes it's the simplest things! When I'd tried scraping before, I was always naturally assuming it was scraping like whittling; that is to say, with the edge at an angle. Holding it perpendicular works great. I just finished my first scraped stem and it came out quite well. Very handy for careful shaping and adjustments.
John
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Ditto Ben & Kurt's use of the padded fingernail emory boards.
The dark blue side takes out the coarse filing scratch marks, the light blue side usually takes it to the point where a couple of grits of polishing compound produce a mirror finish on stems.
The dark blue side takes out the coarse filing scratch marks, the light blue side usually takes it to the point where a couple of grits of polishing compound produce a mirror finish on stems.
Regards,
Frank.
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Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
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Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
- staffwalker
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I learned the use of emery boards (fingernail files) while living in Spain when I used to buy antique wall clocks and repair them for resale. When I started learning to make pipes I turned to them again. My question though, how do you guys tell the 'grit' size?
I have bought several hundred over the years and have yet to find one with the grit stamped. They usually say 'fine', 'extra fine', etc. I can estimate the grit but never know if I guess it right. Do you actually fine them with the 'grit' size marked? If so which store?
bob gilbert
I have bought several hundred over the years and have yet to find one with the grit stamped. They usually say 'fine', 'extra fine', etc. I can estimate the grit but never know if I guess it right. Do you actually fine them with the 'grit' size marked? If so which store?
bob gilbert