I'm still trying to figure out how in hell he's facing the shank of a stummel in a Taig??
Jeff... I don't face anything with the cut-off tool. I use it strictly for cutting off. I think I misread something along the way. Oops.. all apologies.
The way I would imagine doing it on a wood lathe is hot glueing it to "wood facia" faceplate and holding solid block backed sandpaper against the entire surface. I've done similar things that way.
KurtHuhn wrote:
How do you do it? For those types of things, I don't even use the lathe.
On a metal lathe with a left-hand cutting tool.
Dang, there no smilie-thingy for "raspberry".
I just sand one side flat using the platen on my belt grinder, then I set the piece in a jig that I made out of aluminum and sand the other side flat using the same belt grinder and a 400 or 600 grit belt.
KurtHuhn wrote:I just sand one side flat using the platen on my belt grinder, then I set the piece in a jig that I made out of aluminum and sand the other side flat using the same belt grinder and a 400 or 600 grit belt.
jeff wrote:That would make it very difficult to do this:
That's easy to do on a wood lathe. Simply cut a square of the stock for the shank cap. Square/face one side and chuck it up on the lathe. Drill the hole for the tenon, use a 1/8" parting tool to turn the mortise for the outside diameter of the stem, trace the shape on the cap using the pipe shank and sand to final shape! (Ok, maybe not easy, but it can be done!)
You could use a forstner bit, provided you had one the right size. (I'm assuming you mean for the mortise the outside diameter of the stem fits into) However, the outside spurs(cutting edges) of the forstner will leave a ring around the edge of the mortise. Not a major problem but I think the bottom of the mortise looks better flat. There's several ways of accomplishing the same thing depending on the tools available.
I've done the reverse tenon on the shank that fits into the cap, that's easy. You do that when squaring the shank face. It's that round depression in the cap that has got me thinking. How in the world would I do that with a piece of flat stock - honestly, I don't know how it would be done on a metal lathe.
UNLESS!!!
Unless the stock is actually a rod or block, then doing the depression, drilling a hole, and parting off a slice would be trivial. Hmmmm. Okay, I think I just answered my own question. Proabably not what Jeff does though.
KurtHuhn wrote:
Unless the stock is actually a rod or block, then doing the depression, drilling a hole, and parting off a slice would be trivial. Hmmmm. Okay, I think I just answered my own question. Proabably not what Jeff does though.
Exactly! Probably the easiest way to do it. I've also faced, drilled the hole, parted off a slice then mounted it to a "clamp block" (a squared block to clamp into my Talon chuck) with double sided turner's tape to turn the depression/mortise for the stem with an 1/8" parting tool. It works too, but essentially a unnecessary step.(in other words, I didn't think of the "easier" way the first time I tried it)
I completely forgot about that stuff. *NOW* I know how I'm going to do it. I have tons of flat stock that I love to use, and now I can turn that depression in them. Jeez I feel like an idiot some days....
A hot glue gun works better than double sided turners tape IMO for fragile thin material. The hot glue doesn't penetrate the wood. When you want to remove the material, stick it in the freezer (wait till the lady of the house is out), and the materials will separate easily.
(Ok, maybe not easy, but it can be done!)
