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 Post subject: Latest accomplishment
PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 9:51 pm 
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This piece of wood simply spoke to me, and now that I've got a large selection of decorative synthetics, and the right tools, I was able to pull off pretty close to what the wood asked.

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Please let me know what you think.

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Kurt Huhn
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 9:52 am 
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Way cool buddy. I love the staining. very Eltang-esque. Great shape. The reverse curve of the bowl is awesome. To me, the shank looks a little long. The hard line on the front is an interesting touch. I'm not sure what to think of it. On the one hand, it goes a bit counter to the organic curve of the backside of the bowl. On the other hand it does lend an architectural feel to the piece.

Really nice bud.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 1:08 pm 
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Kurt, I'm curious about the indented or concave end on the tenon. Is there a reason you do it that way? I cut a chamfer on the outside of the tenon end to match the end of my mortise bit so there is a tight fit with the tenon and bottom of the mortise and so there is no gap or break in the airhole. I've seen other tenons with concave ends, but haven't understood the logic.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 1:21 pm 
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kbadkar wrote:
Kurt, I'm curious about the indented or concave end on the tenon. Is there a reason you do it that way? I cut a chamfer on the outside of the tenon end to match the end of my mortise bit so there is a tight fit with the tenon and bottom of the mortise and so there is no gap or break in the airhole. I've seen other tenons with concave ends, but haven't understood the logic.


I do it mostly to dress the end of the tenon. In other words, it looks good. It can also help on steeply bent pipes to allow a pipe cleaner to pass easily. I've heard that some pipe makers do it so that there's a place for the inevitable small bit of moisture to collect, and that may also be true.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2007 2:08 pm 
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Chuck Sands has an interesting gimmick for his draft holes. He uses a large tapered bit so that the end of the mortise is the same size as the beginning of the draft hole, and then the hole slimms down to a managable size at the bowl. I'm not sure how they smoke, as I've never had one, but it certainly eliminates any chance that a pipe cleaner won't pass.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 2:30 am 
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Well done i love the risk taking with the long horn shank it pays off very nice. I usally don't like a pick axe shape but I really like this one. my hat is off to you.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 12:47 pm 
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KurtHuhn wrote:
kbadkar wrote:
Kurt, I'm curious about the indented or concave end on the tenon. Is there a reason you do it that way? I cut a chamfer on the outside of the tenon end to match the end of my mortise bit so there is a tight fit with the tenon and bottom of the mortise and so there is no gap or break in the airhole. I've seen other tenons with concave ends, but haven't understood the logic.


I do it mostly to dress the end of the tenon. In other words, it looks good. It can also help on steeply bent pipes to allow a pipe cleaner to pass easily. I've heard that some pipe makers do it so that there's a place for the inevitable small bit of moisture to collect, and that may also be true.


I have also heard that if there is not a perfect line-up between the airway in the stummel and the airway in the stem that the funnel connection between the 2 would help eliminate turbulance.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:56 pm 
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Yeah, it's mostly done that way because of the two reasons mention above.

Some, drill a long taper drill hole all the way to the back of the tenon.


Jaden


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