Rusticating techniques

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Wed Mar 24, 2004 2:06 pm

Okay, here's a question for you all. I've done the smooth finishes with success at this point. And, you have been discussing how to finish rusticated surfaces in another thread. So, if you can't tell where this is going, how do us new guys fill in the missing step: rusticating the stummel.

I'm interested to hear how each of you rusticate the briar.

What tools do you use?

What order do you use them in?

What techniques have you found helpful?

What different kinds of rustications have you attempted? (e.g. Walt Cannoy, Dunhill, and others' rustications have different appearances, what techniques and tools are employed that cause such varied results?)

Your help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all.

Post by **Tyler** » Wed Mar 24, 2004 7:07 pm

Jeff,

This is a good question. I look forward to hearing the responses of others.

In the meantime I am going to explain how I usually rusticate in the pipe making section. I have a few photos that will help in my comments.

I'll post in this thread when I have the new section up.

Tyler

Post by **Tyler** » Thu Mar 25, 2004 11:43 am

Here you go Jeff:

http://www.tylerlanepipes.com/modules.p ... ustication

Let me know if you have any questions so I can add clarifications to the page if need be.

Tyler

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Thu Mar 25, 2004 3:08 pm

Tyler,

The rustication page is really helpful. That is a great little tool you have. I have an ebachon that I'm going to be carving up this weekend, I think I'll make your tool and give it a shot.

Perhaps you don't have any on the bench right now, but if you think about it in the future, posting a photo tour of the rustication process would be helpful to those of us who are new to the game as well as to those who want to give other processes a shot.

Regarding the chisel method, I've seen a bit of that on some website that tours a pipemaker. I can't remember where at present, but when I find out I'll post it. They used chisels to start, then smaller chisels in a cross pattern. Then the followed with a tool somewhat like your own.

So, are there any other pipe makers out there who would like to share their wisdom and experience in this area?

Jeff

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Thu Mar 25, 2004 3:25 pm

Okay, I found the link to the rusticating process used by one of Cavicchi's carvers.

Here it is:

http://www.pipesandtobaccos.com/pipesan ... cavlab.htm

Let me know what you think guys.

Jeff

Post by **Tyler** » Thu Mar 25, 2004 6:31 pm

Jeff,

I really like the look of that rustication. Very nice. Looks like they do the combo method that I mentioned at the bottom of my page on rustication.

Tyler

marks · Post by **marks** » Fri Mar 26, 2004 8:01 am

Tyler, thanks for the tips on making that tool. I am going to try it.

Jeff, I have been using a dremel and various bits. So far, I have done two different rustication styles on pipes. One style is similar to Paul Tatum's, but a little different. Check out Paul's Lizard Egg pipe at http://www.tatumsworkshop.com/WorkshopV ... howroom.ht Paul is not actively carving at the moment, but he will be this summer. I do my carving with about three different sizes of round ball type bits in the dremel, and I can get a very craggy surface. A friend of mine says it reminds him of the surface of the moon. I have gotten lots positive of comments on this pipe when I smoke it at pipe shows.

For the other style I use the 1/8 reamer type bit and plunge or slice into the wood at about a 45 degree angle, crossing the cuts at various depths and angles. Not a bad rustication, but not real craggy. I have lots of control with this carving, and with certain finishes, it looks pretty good.

So far I have one complete pipe with each carving style. I do not have a web site, but if you are interested, I can email you a picture or two of these pipes.

With the dremel, you have to be careful with your speed and how you let the bit sit on the wood. More speed gives a smoother cut, but is more prone to burning the wood.

I have been saving all my briar scraps that I cut off of stummels and practicing with them until I get a style I like. My goal is to have about two or three distinct styles of carving.

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Fri Mar 26, 2004 11:29 am

Thanks for the link to the lizard egg and also the other tips for dremel bits. I had thought about that, but I guess that I never really considered it because it was almost too controlled, at least in theory. While the lizard egg is indeed well rusticated (was there any briar left?), I can't say that it is a style that I might attempt myself. Thanks for the link though and let me know about how your attempts to rusticate work. Oh, and if you would send me photos of your pipes it would be a huge help to me. Thanks again.

Jeff

ArtGuy · Post by **ArtGuy** » Fri Mar 26, 2004 11:53 am

I generally use a combination of a dremel tool and hand chisels for rustication. The dremel leaves a little too much of a contrived mark for my tastes so I use a chisle to break it up a little more.

For what I call "Strand" rustication I use a while wheel, brush and burin combo.

For those who havn't seen it, there is a close up pic of the strand rustication on the main entrance of my home page. www.crosbypipes.com

marks · Post by **marks** » Fri Mar 26, 2004 11:02 pm

Jeff, if you want me to send you a couple of pictures of my pipes, either allow your email to be viewed, or send me an email. I changed my profile so you can view it. Just click on the email icon below, and it comes up.

marks · Post by **marks** » Fri Mar 26, 2004 11:26 pm

Tyler, thanks for posting the rustication piece with the picture of the tool. I have been trying to figure out a good way to make something like this, and when I saw that picture, and your "equipment" list, I went right out to Lowe's and bought all the parts.

Now to start lifting weights so I can properly use this thing.

Post by **Tyler** » Sat Mar 27, 2004 12:18 am

Sure.

Enjoy cracking briar!

Tyler

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Mon Mar 29, 2004 10:16 am

Marks,
I've made my email viewable now. Sorry about that. I'd love to see some of your work.

Tyler,
I made the tool this weekend. It works great, though, now I need to hit up the rustication finishes thread to figure that problem out. Thanks for the tips. Also, are the nails supposed to twist and spread in the compression fitting? It's not a huge problem, but they do twist and widen a bit. I've tightened it more since then though.

Thanks again,
jeff

Post by **Tyler** » Mon Mar 29, 2004 11:54 am

Jeff,

In my tool the nails don't move at all. They are locked in there VERY solidly. If you cannot get the compression fitting to lock down tightly enough, you might stick a finish nail or two down into the concrete nails to tighten things up.

Tyler

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Mon Mar 29, 2004 11:41 pm

Okay, I tightened it and it twists just a hair now, not at all a problem. The practice results are great. How much do you all take off when you use this thing and how hard do you push? How do you get in those tight areas like the joint to the stem? For a distinct line between polished and rusticated finishes do you use a knife, chisel??? Thanks again, Tyler

Jeff

Post by **Tyler** » Tue Mar 30, 2004 12:09 am

Jeff,

Glad you were able to get it fixed.

The toughest spot to rusticate is the area on the bowl just above the shank. I get it as best I can with the tool, then use hand chisels to rusticate what I couldn't reach.

As for a sharp transition between rusticated and smooth surfaces, I again use hand chisels. I have a set of about 6 of them, and there are two that are straight blades. I draw with a line with a pencil, then cut it with the straight chisel. I then rusticate the area close to the line with the curves and V chisels.

Hope that helps.

Tyler

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Wed May 12, 2004 10:06 am

I think there are as many preferences as smokers. What I try to do is balance the texture with a soft feel. By that, I mean that the texture should be interesting, but not intrusive. I have a Nording pipe that looks great, but the texture is too sharp for me, even with my calloused hands. However, a lot of people prefer that.

I think the most important part is to find something distinctive, and the audience will find you eventually.

bscofield · Post by **bscofield** » Wed May 12, 2004 11:17 am

I'm sure tyler's tool works well and I've considered making one for a while. But I like the look I've gotten the 2 times I've rusticated with just a hand chisel (sp?). I've been suprised to see that I've gotten it to come out even both times as well. Doesn't take me very long. Took me about 1/2 hour or less to do the top of my last pipe.

jeff · Post by **jeff** » Wed May 12, 2004 11:30 am

I've used tyler's tool and it worked great. A picture of the pipe I made with it can be found in my photo album, or by going to my website. I was particularly impressed with how quickly it went and how easy it is to get a uniform texture across the entire surface. That has been my major hesitation from attempting the ball bit technique. I just feel like it would be difficult to make a somewhat uniformly rusticated surface. However, I understand that like pipemaking in general, these things come in time, and more often than not you will impress yourself by trying.

Jeff