pipemakersforum.com

hi guys, what is the name of the forstner bit with a mortise bit in the center. i think it would be better to drill it all in one shot!, don't you think so


thanks, tim

Don't know if it has a special name but I think what you are talking about is the 5th item down on this page:

http://www.pimopipecraft.com/tools.html

I have one of those somewhere. One drawback is the size of the counterbore, I think it's 3/4". Which is fine for many, if not most, pipes. For my own pipes, I sometimes use the whole radius of a 1" rod in one direction or another. And the finish from the cutter on that tool leaves a bit to be desired, IIRC.

7/8" is also pretty deep for a mortise, especially if you're making a bent pipe.

Mark Tinsky has his mortise drill bit attached to an aircraft counterbore to accomplish the same thing. You can get a counterbore in a 1 inch (or bigger) diameter too.

Rad

That tool is actually a Fuller 5/16" bit with a counterbore attached. You can get bigger counterbores to fit the jobber bit if needed. However, the counterbore doesn't really give you a good smooth finish on the shank face. At least in my experience....

KurtHuhn wrote:That tool is actually a Fuller 5/16" bit with a counterbore attached. You can get bigger counterbores to fit the jobber bit if needed. However, the counterbore doesn't really give you a good smooth finish on the shank face. At least in my experience....

hi guys, thanks for the help. i quess my problem from time to time is having a flush fit stem on a bent pipe. it seems as like the mortise is drilled on an angle or something leaving the stem gap on on side. my question would be how do do chuck the block in the vise to have the right angle! i think thats were my problem is.

thanks, tim

Why don't you describe your current process, then we can see if we can help figure out where it's going awry. Be sure to let us know what tools you're using (drill press, wood/metal lathe, etc).

hi rad

after looking in msc enco and mcmaster-carr it looks like there are several types of aircraft counterbores that would work - which one is the one you use

thank you
jim

jbacon wrote:hi rad

after looking in msc enco and mcmaster-carr it looks like there are several types of aircraft counterbores that would work - which one is the one you use

thank you
jim

Hi Jim,

I Looked around MSC last night, and I couldn't find the one I use. I know I got it there, but their site is not easy to navigate or find specific items.

Kurt, a quality aircraft counterbore will give a very smooth finish, enough that it usually only takes some light sanding with 320 and then 600 to get the lines out. They are expensive, though. I recall that mine was about $75.00 or so from MSC.

Rad

thanks rad

you are right msc is not easy to find things

most of the aircraft counterbores i found are on pages 242 and 243

jim

jbacon wrote:thanks rad

you are right msc is not easy to find things

most of the aircraft counterbores i found are on pages 242 and 243

jim

thanks rad, more practice of me!!!!!!

This looks like the one I have:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PM ... 58%50mode=

It's much cheaper than I remember.

You have to buy the pilot seperately according to your mortise diameter. It goes in that hole in the middle of the counterbore.

Rad

RadDavis wrote: Kurt, a quality aircraft counterbore will give a very smooth finish, enough that it usually only takes some light sanding with 320 and then 600 to get the lines out. They are expensive, though. I recall that mine was about $75.00 or so from MSC.

I'll have to take a look at those. Currently I use a precision ground Forstner bit for facing and don't have to do any sanding. It's still a two step process though. The Forstner bits I use run me about $30 each.

thanks rad

i use a W.L. Fuller counterbore from jamestown dist. The item# is ful-X85L
i got this information off this site a few years ago.

the one pimo sells is a type b counterbore designed for use in softwoods.

the one i use is a type X which is designed for use in hardwoods.

you can get in different dims and also the lenght of the mortise is adjustable thru setscrews

thnks
jim

The great thing about the one from MSC is that it's super sharp and shaves off the wood, but it still requires a bit of sanding in order to get the shank face to take stain so that it looks like the rest of the pipe.

If I don't sand it to the same finish grit as the rest of the pipe, then the shank face comes out looking much darker or even mottled.

Rad

RadDavis wrote:If I don't sand it to the same finish grit as the rest of the pipe, then the shank face comes out looking much darker or even mottled.

Interesting. I don't sand the face of my shanks typically. The only exception is if it's a military mount or something similar.

KurtHuhn wrote:

RadDavis wrote:If I don't sand it to the same finish grit as the rest of the pipe, then the shank face comes out looking much darker or even mottled.

Interesting. I don't sand the face of my shanks typically. The only exception is if it's a military mount or something similar.

Do your shank faces come out the same finish color as the rest of the pipe?

If so, I need to know where you get these forstner bits you're using.

Rad

They typically come out a little darker, but not tons so. The color and contrast isn't anywhere near what the rest of the pipe is, except for blasts or virgins. To be honest, I never even considered sanding the face of something that is hidden 99.99% of the time. Not only that, but it always seemed like an opportunity for the shank face to go out of square - though I suppose if you're only using 600 grit, the risk is low.

Maybe I should revisit this, and disregard my prejudices.

KurtHuhn wrote: To be honest, I never even considered sanding the face of something that is hidden 99.99% of the time.

Neither did I, but I've found that it's one of those things that people look at at a show to determine "quality". I mean, look at this pic:



Doesn't that just scream "Attention To Detail"?

I know it's kind of crazy, but it's what people want to see. And you have to admit, it does look good.

Rad

I don't sand the faces of my shanks, either, but while working on a pipe this weekend, I was wondering if it was something I should do for exactly the reasons Rad put forth. My fear has been exactly Kurt's, getting the shank out of square and then having to fix it up.

Rad.. when you're sanding the shank face, how are you doing it? I'm assuming the "dragging over sand paper on a flat surface" method?