Absylux® Assessment (and pictures)
Okay, basically the way that I've been doing it is sand to around 1000 grit, then brown tripoli, then carnauba.
And usually, by the time I'm doing the brown tripoli, ebonite/vulcanite or acrylic is starting to show a lot of shine.
But the Absylux had less shine at the brown tripoli stage. However, once I switched to the carnauba and a soft buff, the Absylux started to shine really nice.
So it could well be worth experimenting with different grades of tripoli/rouge. And it might even deepen the blackness a bit, now that I'm thinking about it.
I guess, let's try some different compounds and see what we can accomplish.
And usually, by the time I'm doing the brown tripoli, ebonite/vulcanite or acrylic is starting to show a lot of shine.
But the Absylux had less shine at the brown tripoli stage. However, once I switched to the carnauba and a soft buff, the Absylux started to shine really nice.
So it could well be worth experimenting with different grades of tripoli/rouge. And it might even deepen the blackness a bit, now that I'm thinking about it.
I guess, let's try some different compounds and see what we can accomplish.
Hmmm. Sorry for the cross-examination, but I'm curious. Would the material develop a shine on its own, without the wax? Polished vulcanite or acrylic looks worse with a coat of wax, in my opinion -- it's just schmutz clouding up a glassy surface. The briar needs wax -- or something -- because of the tiny irregularities in the surface. It will be interesting to see this stem after a little use.
I have been smoking and chewing on this stem here for a few days, and most of the wax has rubbed off, but it still has a pretty decent shine. Of course, experimentation with different grades of tripoli/rouge would probably yield a better shine without wax, I'm sure.
Also, Mike Leverette started a discussion over at Smokers' Forum related to our discussion here about Absylux, and I thought it would be good to cross-link to it for reference.
Apparently there are several pipe enthusiasts out there who are interested in the possibility of some new stem materials, which is good to know.
Also, Mike Leverette started a discussion over at Smokers' Forum related to our discussion here about Absylux, and I thought it would be good to cross-link to it for reference.
Apparently there are several pipe enthusiasts out there who are interested in the possibility of some new stem materials, which is good to know.
Another question to throw into the mix: Is all ABS equal? By this I mean, does it differ in the same way that vulcanite differs between manufacturers? It might be interesting to see what Kim (kkendal) thinks of the ABS from IPS.kkendall wrote:I just bought a couple of 2 ft lengths of ABS ($7.40/2ft lengths...3.70/ft) from the same place I buy Delrin...
http://www.indplastic.com/index.cfm?id= ... &pageid=40
Regards,
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Ming-Kahuna makes some interesting and seemingly valid observations about the production of various plastics, etc.pierredekat wrote:Also, Mike Leverette started a discussion over at Smokers' Forum related to our discussion here about Absylux, and I thought it would be good to cross-link to it for reference.
Robert, on that forum you mention pipe manufacturing companies in general including Peterson. I thought it worth a mention that Dr. Grabow is probably the largest manufacturer of pipes. Although they do use various materials for their stems, don't they still use vulcanite for the majority of their pipes? Someone must be manufacturing these premoldeds for them from vulcanite in large quantities.
Regards,
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
It can vary quite a bit, I think. Basically ABS is a composite of three different components: acrylonitrile, butadiene, and styrene. And depending on the ratios of those three components and how they are ultimately melded, the resulting ABS plastics can be quite different from one another.Frank wrote:Another question to throw into the mix: Is all ABS equal? By this I mean, does it differ in the same way that vulcanite differs between manufacturers? It might be interesting to see what Kim (kkendal) thinks of the ABS from IPS.kkendall wrote:I just bought a couple of 2 ft lengths of ABS ($7.40/2ft lengths...3.70/ft) from the same place I buy Delrin...
http://www.indplastic.com/index.cfm?id= ... &pageid=40
There, again, I'm glad to see us experiment with ABS from different sources. Because it could be that one of us might find one that's fractionally better for pipe stems than what others of us might find.
Yes, he did have a lot to add to the conversation.Frank wrote:Ming-Kahuna makes some interesting and seemingly valid observations about the production of various plastics, etc.
Robert, on that forum you mention pipe manufacturing companies in general including Peterson. I thought it worth a mention that Dr. Grabow is probably the largest manufacturer of pipes. Although they do use various materials for their stems, don't they still use vulcanite for the majority of their pipes? Someone must be manufacturing these premoldeds for them from vulcanite in large quantities.
And I'm not sure what Dr. Grabow is using for stems these days, but no doubt it's something cast, rather than machined.
- Danskpibemager
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:42 pm
- Location: Illinois
- Contact:
Abyslux
I Think you guys may be correct in the different qualities of Abyslux. I claim no fame as being an expert at hand cutting stems at this time and need considerable practice to catch up to most of you but the attempts that I did make with this product were less than fantastic. I made 4 reasonable stems as well as a couple of shank extensions just for practice and none of them polished up like Roberts did in his posted photos. I tried brown tripoli, white diamond, HUT Ultragloss and carnuba and the results were dissappointing in all cases. The carnuba produced the best finish but dulled from handling over a weeks time. I also found it very soft when filing, more like mushy rubber than anything else. Either the batch I purchased was bad or less workable than what Robert purchased. Hopefully someone can find the best product from the best source and post their comments.
Yeah, that's strange, Kevin. And you say that it was definitely Absylux® brand of ABS? Or was it something different?
If it was Absylux, I'm wondering if it might be your buffing speed, maybe?
When I buffed mine, I was using 4-inch wheels at approximately 1600 RPMs, according to the dial on my drill press.
If it was Absylux, I'm wondering if it might be your buffing speed, maybe?
When I buffed mine, I was using 4-inch wheels at approximately 1600 RPMs, according to the dial on my drill press.
- Danskpibemager
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:42 pm
- Location: Illinois
- Contact:
Absylux
Robert,
I think I got my shipment about the time you headed north for the holidays and I emailed you that my stuff sucked to work with. I double and triple checked and it is the "Real McCoy". Unfortunately my buffer only runs at 3600 RPM but I try to improvise by applying different amounts of pressure which seems to work good for briar, ebonite, acrylic, etc. I'm hesitant to mention where I got it from but a few of the posts I read are ordering it from the same souce so we'll see if they have better luck. I'll try another stem sometime this week and run a buffing wheel on the lathe at a slower speed and see if that makes a difference. By the way, I forgot to compliment you on your efforts with your stem: looks great! I wish I was that good with handcut stems. That seems to be my main sticking point with crafting pipes and I wish there was someone nearby that I could watch during the stem making process just for a few pointers. The rest of the process is going way ahead of schedule from what I read.
I think I got my shipment about the time you headed north for the holidays and I emailed you that my stuff sucked to work with. I double and triple checked and it is the "Real McCoy". Unfortunately my buffer only runs at 3600 RPM but I try to improvise by applying different amounts of pressure which seems to work good for briar, ebonite, acrylic, etc. I'm hesitant to mention where I got it from but a few of the posts I read are ordering it from the same souce so we'll see if they have better luck. I'll try another stem sometime this week and run a buffing wheel on the lathe at a slower speed and see if that makes a difference. By the way, I forgot to compliment you on your efforts with your stem: looks great! I wish I was that good with handcut stems. That seems to be my main sticking point with crafting pipes and I wish there was someone nearby that I could watch during the stem making process just for a few pointers. The rest of the process is going way ahead of schedule from what I read.
Re: Absylux
Thanks.Danskpibemager wrote:Robert,
I think I got my shipment about the time you headed north for the holidays and I emailed you that my stuff sucked to work with. I double and triple checked and it is the "Real McCoy". Unfortunately my buffer only runs at 3600 RPM but I try to improvise by applying different amounts of pressure which seems to work good for briar, ebonite, acrylic, etc. I'm hesitant to mention where I got it from but a few of the posts I read are ordering it from the same souce so we'll see if they have better luck. I'll try another stem sometime this week and run a buffing wheel on the lathe at a slower speed and see if that makes a difference. By the way, I forgot to compliment you on your efforts with your stem: looks great! I wish I was that good with handcut stems. That seems to be my main sticking point with crafting pipes and I wish there was someone nearby that I could watch during the stem making process just for a few pointers. The rest of the process is going way ahead of schedule from what I read.
And the only thing I can think is that 3600 RPMs must be either blistering the Absylux or melting it in unpredictable ways. So I have been snooping around on the internet to check out ways to slow your buffer down. But unfortunately, there's no cost effective method.
Apparently it's cheaper to buy a slower buffer than it is to slow one down that turns too fast. The electronic gizmo capable of slowing down an "induction" motor is somewhere in the range of $175.00.
But they have some cheapo Rand buffers on Ebay for $41.95 + $13.50 S&H
http://search.ebay.com/rand-buffer
Or if you can find a Delta GR275 variable speed grinder, that one looks like it will do the trick.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=De ... gle+Search
Or a Craftsman 21152
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Cr ... tnG=Search
- Danskpibemager
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:42 pm
- Location: Illinois
- Contact:
Buffers
Robert,
I appreciate the time and effort you put into looking for buffers on my behalf but I've been told by the boss that I will need to sell some pipes in order to buy any new equipment. Smart Lady. I tried the buffer on the lathe and it works pretty good so I think I'll go that route for awhile.
I appreciate the time and effort you put into looking for buffers on my behalf but I've been told by the boss that I will need to sell some pipes in order to buy any new equipment. Smart Lady. I tried the buffer on the lathe and it works pretty good so I think I'll go that route for awhile.
Re: Buffers
Well, yes, your boss sounds like a very smart lady, and that's definitely solid advice.Danskpibemager wrote:Robert,
I appreciate the time and effort you put into looking for buffers on my behalf but I've been told by the boss that I will need to sell some pipes in order to buy any new equipment. Smart Lady. I tried the buffer on the lathe and it works pretty good so I think I'll go that route for awhile.