CUTTING THE SLOT

For discussion of fitting and shaping stems, doing inlays, and any other stem-related topic.
Post Reply
timothy thorpe
Posts: 167
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2007 6:20 am
Location: new jersey
Contact:

CUTTING THE SLOT

Post by timothy thorpe »

hi guys. i have cut about 12 slots in my pipe making experience. i v-slot the airhole , then using the dremel cutting wheel i make the slot. well it always crocked or uneven!!! is there a better method or just practice.

thanks,tim
User avatar
RadDavis
Posts: 2693
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: united states/Alabama
Contact:

Post by RadDavis »

Hi Tim,

It's mainly just practice.

I cut the slot with the dremel cutting wheel first. Then I widen it a bit with a dremel diamond burr point, open it side to side with a 1/16 drill bit in the dremel, smooth everything out with another skinny diamond burr, then finish it off with small files.

Rad
timothy thorpe
Posts: 167
Joined: Mon Jun 11, 2007 6:20 am
Location: new jersey
Contact:

Post by timothy thorpe »

RadDavis wrote:Hi Tim,

It's mainly just practice.

I cut the slot with the dremel cutting wheel first. Then I widen it a bit with a dremel diamond burr point, open it side to side with a 1/16 drill bit in the dremel, smooth everything out with another skinny diamond burr, then finish it off with small files.

Rad
thanks rad, as i smoke your pipes i often say, dam that bit looks perfect!!! thanks for the tip!!

tim
User avatar
hazmat
Posts: 797
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: Harrisburg, PA

Post by hazmat »

Cutting the slot first, and then opening the airway is about the best way to go, as Rad suggested.

Something else you may want to try is clamping your dremel in a vise and moving the stem stock to it instead of trying to freehand it with the dremel in-hand. I had problems keeping my hand steady and the cutting wheel would walk off on me and rip a slot clear across the face of the stock. It can still happen with the dremel in a vise but I've only had it go bad once, when I first tried it this way. YMMV.
User avatar
Frank
Posts: 1341
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: Southern California

Post by Frank »

If you have a drill press with a cross slide vise mounted on the drill table, you can advance the stem into the dremel wheel exactly where you want it. Presumably the drill has a quill lock.
Regards,
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
LatakiaLover
Posts: 3120
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2007 4:29 am
Location: Kansas City, USA
Contact:

Post by LatakiaLover »

Another variable that GREATLY affects accuracy and usability with regard to "Dremel type tasks" is torque. The foot controlled, mega-motor, shaft-drive sort like Foredom sells are as different from the kind where the handpiece contains the motor as night and day.

Slowing things down and still getting cutting action is close to being the entire "secret" of hand held rotary tools for pipemaking tasks, in fact.
UFOs must be real. There's no other explanation for cats.
User avatar
KurtHuhn
Site Admin
Posts: 5326
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: United States/Rhode Island

Post by KurtHuhn »

I tend to do the entire thing by hand. Cut the slot with a rotary saw, and then switch to a 1mm drill bit to cut the "V". Then I sometimes will enlarge the "V" a little more with a 1/16" drill bit. All tools are held in the remote handpiece of my dremel-like tool running at full speed. It definitely takes practice. I must have spent a year or two developing the skill to do the procedure that I use. Now, I can't see doing it any other way. It's all over except the finish file work in about 45 seconds.
Kurt Huhn
AKA: Oversized Ostrogoth
artisan@k-huhn.com
pierredekat

Post by pierredekat »

One thing that can make a big difference is having a good quality 1/16" drill bit.

I tried everything readily available on the market, and the one I like the best, by far, is made by Ridgid.

The biggest disappointment was the ones made by Dewalt. They looked so fancy with the "gold" or whatever plating, but those things won't cut hot butter.

The Vermont American and Blu-Mol ones were fair.

But the Ridgid bits are sharp, the flutes have a sharp edge that you can feel. And they're actually fluted longer than anybody else's.

But a good sharp 1/16 bit will cut, rather than melt, and they cut with a lot less wandering.
User avatar
Nick
Posts: 2171
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: United States/Connecticut

Post by Nick »

I usually cut my slot using a snipped scroll saw blade. Then I'll go back with files or a dremel and widen it out a bit. Clearly, this is no way to do it if you're going for speed and efficiency. But it is very controled and makes a great, deep slot.
User avatar
LexKY_Pipe
Posts: 875
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: Lexington, Kentucky USA

Post by LexKY_Pipe »

Listen to the masters. It takes practice, practice, practice. Keep working at it until you find the method that works for you. Also, take little cuts each time. Even when you're widening the opening. Little by little by little.
Craig

From the heart of the Blue Grass.
Lexington, KY

loscalzo.pipes@gmail.com
User avatar
Tano
Posts: 302
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: Calgary, Alberta

Post by Tano »

Here is a picture of the cross-slide vice and the dremel bit. I find this gives me more control in cutting the slot. I hope it helps visualize the process.

Image
All the best,
Tano
User avatar
LexKY_Pipe
Posts: 875
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: Lexington, Kentucky USA

Post by LexKY_Pipe »

Tano

Wow, I can do that. It'll make my process more precise too. Thanks. A pic is worth 1,000 words.
Craig

From the heart of the Blue Grass.
Lexington, KY

loscalzo.pipes@gmail.com
User avatar
Briarfox
Posts: 244
Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 3:20 pm
Location: United States/California

Post by Briarfox »

Tano wrote:Here is a picture of the cross-slide vice and the dremel bit. I find this gives me more control in cutting the slot. I hope it helps visualize the process.

Image
That is a great idea!
User avatar
Frank
Posts: 1341
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: Southern California

Post by Frank »

Frank wrote:If you have a drill press with a cross slide vise mounted on the drill table, you can advance the stem into the dremel wheel exactly where you want it. Presumably the drill has a quill lock.
DUH! :shock: You couldn't picture what I was saying? :lol:
Regards,
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
LatakiaLover
Posts: 3120
Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2007 4:29 am
Location: Kansas City, USA
Contact:

Post by LatakiaLover »

From the slot cutter pictured, over to the router table / jig setup shown in last weeks thread for shaping... Looks like a "Hand Cut" stem to me! :lol: :lol: :lol:

(The boards like Smokers Forums will argue for weeks about the term. It's great entertainment.)
UFOs must be real. There's no other explanation for cats.
User avatar
Tyler
Site Supporter
Posts: 2376
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: Farmersville, TX
Contact:

Post by Tyler »

Tano has a very precise fix there, but guys, seriously, its not that hard. Just use the Dremel and cut the slot with the bit that Tano is showing in his rig. While the rod is still round it is almost impossible to screw up since there is not a fixed perspective that the slot needs to be squared to.

Tim, I think you problem is just doing it in the more difficult order. Use the "saw blade" bit to cut the slot, then use the bits for "smearing" the V open.

Tyler
User avatar
LexKY_Pipe
Posts: 875
Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
Location: Lexington, Kentucky USA

Post by LexKY_Pipe »

Tim

Also, have you watched Tyler's videos on pipemaking in general. A wealth of knowledge there. Tyler did us a great service in taking the time to make them.
Craig

From the heart of the Blue Grass.
Lexington, KY

loscalzo.pipes@gmail.com
wdteipen
Posts: 2817
Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:05 pm

Post by wdteipen »

This is definitely the most difficult part of fabricating a stem for me. I can see that getting a clean, thin slot takes a lot of practice. A couple things that have helped me is to Dremel cut the slot after I have rough cut the bit and also to widen the "V" manually with a 1/16 bit. Other than being a bit slower does anyone see anything wrong with this technique? With past stems I've cut it seems I do okay using the Dremel cutter but botch it up trying to cut the V with a 1/16 bit in a Dremel.
Post Reply