suggestions for putting name on pipe...

[Patrick]

Other than using a steel stamp to put name on pipe, what other ways are there for permanent marking? Thanks!

[Frank]

It depends on what you can afford. There's laser etching and mechanical etching. If you have a steady hand, a Dremel and small bit....

[Patrick]

In the past I have tried Dremel but it does not look good. Tell me more about the others and how do I go about it. I could buy a steel stamp name but they want $75.00. Thanks, Patrick

[flix]

Before I purchased the stamp, I used a soldering iron with a fine point tip. Lot's of practice is needed to keep the marking look decent. I do believe that a wood burning kit should work well, assuming a fine enough tip. HTH...

[Frank]

Actually, my above post should have read mechanical engraving not etching. If $75 is too steep for a stamp, then don't even consider laser. A mechanical engraver works slightly different from a Dremel, but you still need a good eye and a steady hand. The setup would still cost more than a steel stamp.

As flix mentioned, the cheapest way to go would be a fine point soldering iron, but again, good eye... steady hand... yadda, yadda.

[KurtHuhn]

A steel stamp is actually the least expensive way to get good, repeatable impressions of your logo, name, and whatever else you want on the pipe.

If you're planning on selling your pipes, a stamp is pretty much required unless you're going to go the way of Eltang and Geiger and use a pantograph engraver. Every once in a while I'll run into pipes that I sold before I had a stamp, and the dremel scrawling makes me cringe to no end.

[alan]

Any recommendations on where to get the stamp made? I've looked for individual letter stamps to just do initials at every craft shop my wife has dragged me to, and I find nothing. A custom logo stamp would be much better than basic letters.

[Tsunami]

I use a Pantograph Engraver on my stummels and cut the logo in my stems. The reason is two fold.
1. It is deep in the wood 10-15 thousandth deep.
2. I used to be an engraver and I still have easy access to the equipment when needed.

[KurtHuhn]

Any recommendations on where to get the stamp made? I've looked for individual letter stamps to just do initials at every craft shop my wife has dragged me to, and I find nothing. A custom logo stamp would be much better than basic letters.

Paul at A&M Steel Stamps:
A & M Steel Stamps
55 Windsor Ave,
Mineola, N.Y. 11501
Phone: 516-741-6223
E-mail: mailto:amsteelstamps@yahoo.com

Tell him Kurt sent you, and maybe he'll forgive me for dropping the ball on that last check....

[Frank]

While we're on the subject of stamps....

I haven't as yet used my stamp, so I was wondering how best to use it. Applying it to the shank, does one use a small hammer to make the imprint? Is there a danger of cracking/crushing the shank if too much force is used?

I've been considering heating the stamp with a propane torch and burning into the briar. Good idea? Yes? No? Maybe? Are you crazy?

[RadDavis]

Hi Frank,

Just push it on by hand gently rocking as you go. It doesn't take near as much pressure as you think.

Don't use a hammer or fire.

Try it on some scrap wood.

Rad

[Charl]

Just by the way: what does a pipe stamp look like? I haven't come across any photos and actually have no idea. I suppose it must be a bit different than normal stamps though?

[Patrick]

Today I purchased a Walmart an $11.00 wood burner pencil. Went home and tried it out. It works great! Lucky that I have a steady hand.
I put the pipe name on shank bottom with fine line pencil first, then went over it with burner and worked out fine. Advantage is that you can use block or script, etc. Not confined to a steel stamp. This burner may not work for every one.

[Ryan]

There is a guy here in AZ his name is Howard he is the owner and operator of Starfire engraving. He lazer marks all my pipes. He is very good and reasonable priced.

623-776-0791

[pierredekat]

Of all the things I do, putting my mark on a pipe is my least favorite.

Because a poor stamping can sure sure enough turn a masterpiece into a piece of poop in no time at all.

But one thing I have found helpful is putting on some very light pencil guidelines before I do it.

I start with two parallel lines, approximately 1/8 inch apart. And then I mark a little hash mark where the stamp should start and where it should end.

Then I rehearse what I'm going to do in my mind, until I think I can do it in real life. And that's when I put the steel to the wood.

Anywho, I imagine this sort of approach would be applicable with any marking technique: stamping, engraving, etc.

[FredS]

While we're on the subject of stamps....

I haven't as yet used my stamp, so I was wondering how best to use it...

Here's how Claudio Cavicchi does it

[Frank]

Here's how Claudio Cavicchi does it

Interesting press gizmo. Hmm, a drill press, a stamp... experiment time.