pipemakersforum.com

Hey Guys,

This is a design similar to what Bo Nordh used. You've got a number of holes in the chuck through which you run 1/2" bolts. Depending on the orientation of the block in the chuck, you may want to use one or another set of holes to secure the block. The axis bolts should be ground to a point to allow for precise alignment of the block and easy pivoting. Again, this is not something that the average guy can do in his garage, but if you have access to the tools and machinery to do this, as well as the skill set, it is a fairly easy and affordable alternative to other pipe-specific chucks that are available out there.

This chuck is designed to be inserted into your existing 3-jaw chuck, but could easily be made to thread on instead.

Todd

Thanks, Todd. I've been hashing out ideas for a homebrewed vise for my drill press and I think this is one I'll build on. I like (and have seen elsewhere) the idea of using pivot screws so you can spin the stummel and end up with the tobacco chamber & draft hole aiming at the same point within the block. This can easily be adapted to mount in a vise, or better yet directly to the table of a drill press.

Thanks a bunch Todd! That's just what I needed. Now I have a project on my hands! I'll post some pics when I get it done.
-Nate

Hi Todd,

many thanks from me, too ! A friend of mine, who is, other than me, seriously skilled in metalworks, made it for me, and here it is, come true:



I converted the measures to metric, and made it a little smaller (my lathe is quite tiny). At first try, it seems to work just fine. Will be giving it a more serious try next weekend ...

regards, Jens

That's great, Jens. You'll want to take those two middle bolts and either grind or turn them to a nice point. This will allow you to grip the block very precisely as well as pivot it. The other bolts are essentially hold-downs to keep the block in place, so flat is fine for them. It looks good. Let us know how it works.

Todd

Hi everyone,

took some time due to other projects, but now I finally managed to give it a serious try ... here's it at work:


Please excuse the poor photograph... my cell phone was the only camera at hand.
The chuck works just fine, though it takes some time to get the wood fixed and centered. 2-3 bolts on each side are enough to fix it well, anyone who wants to try this kind of chuck should take out the bolts which are not actually needed - they will loosen at work and fly around (no casualties ).
That piece of wood turned out bad little later, had to throw it away due to a really bad crack in the wood ...

Regards, Jens

How the heck did I miss this ? Or even worse: Why couldn't I come up with such a simple idea
Thank you Todd, It's simple, practical and within my capability to fabricate. I will also convert to metric and change dimentions to suit my needs.

ToddJohnson wrote:Hey Guys,

This chuck is designed to be inserted into your existing 3-jaw chuck, but could easily be made to thread on instead.
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I think the easiest way to do a thread on version of this chuck will be to discard the shaft and bolt the vice to a small face plate. If a four hole face plate is used it shouldn't be much of a problem to centre the vice on the plate. Just my 2c.

I am in need of one of these, but I can find no one around here that will make one. Any ideas?

T3pipes wrote:I am in need of one of these, but I can find no one around here that will make one. Any ideas?

If you have an industrial area near you, there will likely be machine shops that can make it for you. An alternative is this pipemaking chuck from Trent Rudat: Chuck
You can also email the above design to him and get a price quote.

You can also get one these:
http://www.oneway.ca/chucks/oneway.htm

And use two of these:
http://www.oneway.ca/chucks/accessories/tower_jaws.htm (get the #2 jaws)

Which more than a few hobbyists and at least one full time pipe maker actually does.

Guys, while the concept looks nice, unless and until, the creation is "balanced" to your chuck, threaded or otherwise, you may not get concentric results - wobble or other vibration. If you have someone craft one for you, I would suggest that you send them your chuck to make sure it is balanced. Safety should also cross your mind while you are "carving" [sic]. Please be careful.

Pharaohfitz wrote:Guys, while the concept looks nice, unless and until, the creation is "balanced" to your chuck, threaded or otherwise, you may not get concentric results - wobble or other vibration. If you have someone craft one for you, I would suggest that you send them your chuck to make sure it is balanced. Safety should also cross your mind while you are "carving" [sic]. Please be careful.

Um, this device is used for fixturing an unbalanced hunk of wood, off center, in a chuck. Sure a balanced fixture is good to start with, but the workpiece itself is going to contribute more off-center weight than the fixture will. Sound fabrication & machining skills will produce a sufficiently balanced unit without worrying about perfectly balancing your chuck & fixture combination. Unless you plan on spooling it up to 12,000 rpm

Fred hit it right on - any chuck you use, plus a block of briar, is going to be imbalanced - and in some case extremely so. Figuring out how to balance the entire affair to within acceptable limits is going to be a big help - such as using some lead weights fastened with jaw screws. Most chucks come with little fiddly bits that are great for using as counterweights.

Hi,

being the one here who actually worked with that thing, I have to state that it runs perfectly round, concentric and without vibration or wobble - provided, of course, that it's made exactly and symmetric...

Safety should also cross your mind while you are "carving" [sic]. Please be careful.

That's right, of course. Don't come too close to that chuck when running, neither with your fingers nor with any kind of tool. And take out bolts that are not actually needed, or they will loosen and fly around.

regards, Jens

Apologies to all for bringing up balance and safety for metal items spinning on a lathe.
I must have gotten dizzy trying to read where this thing was made while it was spinning at 12,000 rpm......
Spin your chucks in peace not pieces,
Pharaohfitz

Jos wrote:..., I have to state that it runs perfectly round, concentric and without vibration or wobble - provided, of course, that it's made exactly and symmetric...

I think this is the point that Pharaohfitz was trying to make. If everything isn't properly aligned, i.e. shank to back plate, to centre of middle bolts, etc, the device itself won't run concentric. My 2 penn'orth.

Pharaohfitz wrote:Apologies to all for bringing up balance and safety for metal items spinning on a lathe.
I must have gotten dizzy trying to read where this thing was made while it was spinning at 12,000 rpm......
Spin your chucks in peace not pieces,
Pharaohfitz

I bet you - like me - just about pee your pants evey time you see a picture like this (with apologies to Jeff):

Yep. Nice key! But Jeff might look more earthy with an eye patch. (pirate chuckle)
He needs another lathe that has been converted to variable speed with a frequency drive like mine, stops muey pronto also.
Love his work and, of course, Todd's.

Turn in peace,
Pharaohfitz

FredS wrote:I bet you - like me - just about pee your pants evey time you see a picture like this (with apologies to Jeff):

As I recall when I received my lathe, one of the first safety instructions in the manual was, "Never leave the key in the chuck". Still, it happened to me... only once! I hit the "off" switch faster than a speeding bullet. Now, any time I use the lathe I remember the tip, "The key never leaves your hand when it's in the chuck".