Super long Taper bits

[Tsunami]

Hello all; I have been asked to make a churchwarden pipe for my brother inlaw. What I need to find is a 12 iinch tapered bit for the stem. Anyone know where I can get one?

[ToddJohnson]

Hello all; I have been asked to make a churchwarden pipe for my brother inlaw. What I need to find is a 12 iinch tapered bit for the stem. Anyone know where I can get one?

I think those are only available at www.tools-that-dont-exist.com.

Todd

[Frank]

Hello all; I have been asked to make a churchwarden pipe for my brother inlaw. What I need to find is a 12 iinch tapered bit for the stem. Anyone know where I can get one?

I think those are only available at www.tools-that-dont-exist.com.

Todd

You cruel bugger!

[Tsunami]

Oh Look!, Sophmoric humor! Your wit leaves much to desired. With that said, is there anyone who can help me? I have to think that when one makes a churchwarden stem that the hole just doesn't magically appear. So what do you use?

[ToddJohnson]

Oh Look!, Sophmoric humor! Your wit leaves much to desired. With that said, is there anyone who can help me? I have to think that when one makes a churchwarden stem that the hole just doesn't magically appear. So what do you use?

"Sophomoric" shouldn't be capitalized unless it is at the beginning of a sentence. "Asshole," likewise, is not a proper noun unless it's a surname--which I've never seen. One could capitalize "Stop Being a Prick and Get a Sense of Humor" if it were a song, but the indefinite articles, conjunctions, and prepositions would still be lowercase. e.e. cummings, the 20th century poet, would not even have capitalized the "p" in the sentence "pull your damn pants up" . . . but enough about writing in English. Let's talk about this drill bit you're in search of.

We just know it has to exist since, as you say, holes in churchwardens don't appear magically. Perhaps there's one that carpenters use when pre-drilling for twelve inch deck screws. Or, I know, maybe it's a masonry tool right next to the Tap-cons.

Pipemaking tools don't really exist. Make it yourself or find it yourself. If I were you, I would start here: www.google.com. You will actually have to type the words "long tapered drill bit" in to the little box and press enter. No one here can do that for you. Unbelievable.

Todd

[Frank]

Jamestown Distributors don't seem to carry the Extra Long Tapered Bits, but even those are only about 8" long and pricey, if you can find them.

You'll have to grind your own taper on a 12" bit or go with a premolded.

[KurtHuhn]

Fuller Tool *used* to make bits that long - I have three. However, after the fire, a lot of their production stopped, and they had to take stock of what sells readily, and what sits on the shelves. When production started up again, a lot of the previous offerings simply didn't get put back into the queue.

They can be found from time to time, in obscure places like the little hole-in-the-wall hardware store in town - behind all the new production stuff. But, it's going to be tough to find them anymore.

McMaster-Carr sells a "long length" taper point 5/32" bit that's about 5.5 inches overall length - probably not long enough for your purposes. I think Enco sells the same thing for a few pennies less. McMaster Carr # 30915A76.

You could make one yourself from an extra long drill bit by grinding down the first 1.5 or 2 inches into a taper, being sure to leave about 1/16" diameter of the point untouched. That has it's own set of problems, however. If you're reaming a hole put there by, say, a 1/8" bit, it would work fine. I've never tried to use such a bit as the initial hole boring bit though. It might be fine in a material soft like ebonite, or it might wander off course.

Another option is to get the bit above from McMaster-Carr, and a length of drill rod stock, and make a long shank drill. I think I'd do this by using a carbide drill bit to make a 9/64" hole in the back of the drill bit about 3/8" or so deep, then use some epoxy that isn't really heat sensitive (JB-Weld and Acraglas come to mind) to epoxy a length of 9/64" hardened and tempered drill rod stock into the hole. With the right equipment, you could even silver solder it in there - a much more resilient method, actually. That way, you can make it 12", 10" or 15" if you want.

As for the last option above - I've never done it. I have, however, had the process explained to me. It seems straightforward enough. You will definitely want a metal lathe with a collet chuck for this - or at least a very accurate 3-jaw chuck.

Now that I think about it, that sounds like a fun project. If you do undertake that option, be sure to show off the results.

[Tsunami]

Oh Look!, Sophmoric humor! Your wit leaves much to desired. With that said, is there anyone who can help me? I have to think that when one makes a churchwarden stem that the hole just doesn't magically appear. So what do you use?

"Sophomoric" shouldn't be capitalized unless it is at the beginning of a sentence. "Asshole," likewise, is not a proper noun unless it's a surname--which I've never seen. One could capitalize "Stop Being a Prick and Get a Sense of Humor" if it were a song, but the indefinite articles, conjunctions, and prepositions would still be lowercase. e.e. cummings, the 20th century poet, would not even have capitalized the "p" in the sentence "pull your damn pants up" . . . but enough about writing in English. Let's talk about this drill bit you're in search of.

We just know it has to exist since, as you say, holes in churchwardens don't appear magically. Perhaps there's one that carpenters use when pre-drilling for twelve inch deck screws. Or, I know, maybe it's a masonry tool right next to the Tap-cons.

Pipemaking tools don't really exist. Make it yourself or find it yourself. If I were you, I would start here: www.google.com. You will actually have to type the words "long tapered drill bit" in to the little box and press enter. No one here can do that for you. Unbelievable.

Todd

Wow! Seems you can dish it out but can't take it! What arrogance! I am imprressed that my little comment was all it took to reduce you to using foul language and calling names like you were 8 years old on the playground. I am suprised that someone who obviously has a far superior command of the English language would stoop to such a level. Maybe it is that your so arrogant that it makes you so sensitive. You can continue to make fun of my typing or my use of the Engish language since it I know how it must make you feel superior, and you do like to think of yourself that way don't you Todd? I asked for help and you only offer stupid jokes. I would contend that it is you who should get a sense of humor (how did you put it) ASSHOLE! I have never met one nasty person on here. But I guess the old saying is correct, "There is one in every bunch". And that Sir is you.

[Tsunami]

Fuller Tool *used* to make bits that long - I have three. However, after the fire, a lot of their production stopped, and they had to take stock of what sells readily, and what sits on the shelves. When production started up again, a lot of the previous offerings simply didn't get put back into the queue.

They can be found from time to time, in obscure places like the little hole-in-the-wall hardware store in town - behind all the new production stuff. But, it's going to be tough to find them anymore.

McMaster-Carr sells a "long length" taper point 5/32" bit that's about 5.5 inches overall length - probably not long enough for your purposes. I think Enco sells the same thing for a few pennies less. McMaster Carr # 30915A76.

You could make one yourself from an extra long drill bit by grinding down the first 1.5 or 2 inches into a taper, being sure to leave about 1/16" diameter of the point untouched. That has it's own set of problems, however. If you're reaming a hole put there by, say, a 1/8" bit, it would work fine. I've never tried to use such a bit as the initial hole boring bit though. It might be fine in a material soft like ebonite, or it might wander off course.

Another option is to get the bit above from McMaster-Carr, and a length of drill rod stock, and make a long shank drill. I think I'd do this by using a carbide drill bit to make a 9/64" hole in the back of the drill bit about 3/8" or so deep, then use some epoxy that isn't really heat sensitive (JB-Weld and Acraglas come to mind) to epoxy a length of 9/64" hardened and tempered drill rod stock into the hole. With the right equipment, you could even silver solder it in there - a much more resilient method, actually. That way, you can make it 12", 10" or 15" if you want.

As for the last option above - I've never done it. I have, however, had the process explained to me. It seems straightforward enough. You will definitely want a metal lathe with a collet chuck for this - or at least a very accurate 3-jaw chuck.

Now that I think about it, that sounds like a fun project. If you do undertake that option, be sure to show off the results.

Kurt; Thanks for the info. I like the idea of the sillver solder. I may just weld a piece of stock on the end of a bit and grind smooth. Thanks again
Paul

[KurtHuhn]

Kurt; Thanks for the info. I like the idea of the sillver solder. I may just weld a piece of stock on the end of a bit and grind smooth. Thanks again
Paul

Assuming you can get them lined up, centered, and straight, that might be the best option. That way the heat is very, very localized and doesn't last but a second or so. I think I would, just to be on the safe side, still drill that hole in the back of the bit to be sure the stock you use is straight and centered on the long axis of the bit.

[Tsunami]

Kurt; Thanks for the info. I like the idea of the sillver solder. I may just weld a piece of stock on the end of a bit and grind smooth. Thanks again
Paul

Assuming you can get them lined up, centered, and straight, that might be the best option. That way the heat is very, very localized and doesn't last but a second or so. I think I would, just to be on the safe side, still drill that hole in the back of the bit to be sure the stock you use is straight and centered on the long axis of the bit.

Good Idea. I could do this at work. Metro North Railroad for all its faults does have grat tools! lol I will let you know how I make out.
Thanks Again
Paul

[Alan L]

It's actually very easy to make a long tapered bit by the silver solder method. All you need is either a pair of vises or a board with a deep notch on one straight edge to clamp the bit and the drill rod to (or to which to clamp the drill rod, if there are any grammar nazis around ).

Get yourself some silver solder and flux. Google "Safety-silv 56" for a good kind for this application. A propane torch gets plenty hot enough for a small bit. Make sure the bit and the drill rod are aligned as perfectly as possible, clamp, heat the joint a little, flux, heat to a bright orange, and tough the solder to the joint. It ought to flow right in. Allow to cool to room temperature, clean up with files and sandpaper, and you're done. DO NOT cool it off. The bit can take it, being high-speed steel, and the drill rod will be relatively soft. If you cool it off, it'll harden the drill rod, which will cause it to snap the first time you use it.

It is very important to note that silver-bearing lead-free plumbing solder is not silver solder. If it says "flows at 485 degrees F" it's the wrong stuff. You want something that flows around 1100 degrees F.

I prefer this method to welding because it doesn't cause such a large brittle zone. That's why lathe tools, saw teeth, masonry bits, etc. with carbide tips are brazed, not welded. Good luck!

[KurtHuhn]

Good info Alan! Thanks!

[ToddJohnson]

ASSHOLE!

Again, not capitalized.

Todd

[KurtHuhn]

Stop it right now.

[ToddJohnson]

Stop it right now.

Sorry Dad. . . but he was touching me.

[Frank]

Stop it right now.

The shout that was heard round the world.

Let's keep it humorous guys. Even that Oversized Ostrogoth enjoys a good coffee through the nose onto the keyboard.

Slanging matches aren't fun....
EDIT: ...except when Rad and Todd are slinging turds at each other!

[bscofield]

Seriously guys... Kurt almost turned this car around!

[bscofield]

Stop it right now.

Sorry Dad. . . but he was touching me.

In today's society that just doesn't sound the same...

[FredS]

Hello all; I have been asked to make a churchwarden pipe for my brother inlaw. What I need to find is a 12 iinch tapered bit for the stem. Anyone know where I can get one?

Gee, that seems like a perfectly appropriate question to post in the Tooling section of a Pipe Making Forum.

Unfortunately Paul, it looks like there’s no such tool readily available. You’re probably going to have to make your own and Kurt and Alan are on the right track as to how to do so, but I’d suggest a different method. I spent 15 years as a machinist/tool maker (in fact I received formal training which seems to carry a lot of cred with some of the folks around here recently) and I’ve used this method perhaps 16~18 times and it only failed once, so I know it works.

Instead of drilling the drill bit, drill the drill rod (it’s softer). Then grind/file the shank of the drill bit to be a good “slip fit” in the hole. A lathe is helpful to keep it concentric, but you can do it by hand on a sander in a pinch. A few thousandths run-out won’t kill you – you’ll only be drilling a pipe stem after all. Then chamfer the corners, slip them together, clamp them to something flat and apply solder. Try to keep the drill rod side a bit hotter so the solder will wick into the joint. Let it air cool then remove the excess solder and you’re almost home free. You will almost surely not have a perfectly straight tool and it will require some tweaking to get it straight. Roll it on a flat surface (the kitchen counter will work fine) while looking under the bit and you’ll easily see a gap open under the high side. It’s then a simple matter to bend it straight. It’ll take a few tries, but you’d be surprised how true you can it using this method.

Good luck. I find that part the enjoyment of making stuff, is making stuff to make the stuff.