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A new stabby from the workshop

Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:30 pm
by KurtHuhn
Actually, more of a "choppy" than a "stabby".
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5" blade of 1084, differentially hardened, and etched for a no-frills finish that you don't have to worry about scratching. It's shipping in the AM to it's new owner.

Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 3:28 am
by Frank
Functional and practical - very nice.

Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 3:42 am
by Olivier
Very interresting temperline you created there. Looks like a great working knife and with the high carbon content and thickness at the cutting edge it will probably last forever.

Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 11:28 am
by Alan L
Looks stout and well shaped!

Ever think about using that micarta as a stem spacer? I bet somebody would like it. Like me, maybe... :lol:

Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 11:45 am
by jeff
Nice, Kurt. How did you harden it, if I might ask. Do you have a high-temp oven?

Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 12:32 pm
by KurtHuhn
Alan L wrote:Looks stout and well shaped!

Ever think about using that micarta as a stem spacer? I bet somebody would like it. Like me, maybe... :lol:
You been reading my notes again? :twisted:

I have some G10 cylinders here that I've thinking would make for an interesting stem ring. The nice thing about these is that the material is laid out lengthwise so you can see the grain when you have thin sections - unlike the sheets of G10 and micarta where the grain of the material runs horizontal to it's thickness.

Maybe I should get on that? :D

Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 12:38 pm
by KurtHuhn
jeff wrote:Nice, Kurt. How did you harden it, if I might ask. Do you have a high-temp oven?
Thanks, Jeff! I do, actually. I have my gas forge where I heat treated this knife, and I'm finishing up construction of my electric heat treat oven this weekend - hopefully. This mess:
viewtopic.php?t=3764
is actually me assembling the electronics for it. I have the frame welded up, IFBs stacked, and I just need to figure out the best way to mount the door (side or bottom swing).

Since this is 1084, the heat treat was really painless. After a few normalizing cycles I brought it up to temp, let it soak for a couple minutes, then quenched in hot oil and tempered. Luckily Karin wasn't home, because until I get my electric HT oven finished I use the small convection/toaster oven to temper - and the whole house will smell like smoked oil. :)

Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 3:29 pm
by staffwalker
Great looking knife, Kurt.

I have used sheets of Micarta for stem spacers on pipes. I made 12-15 pipes with sheet Micarta back when I didn't have the shop equipment to produce flat surfaces in materials. It works, sands, polishes and looks good.

bob

Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 10:11 am
by Alan L
KurtHuhn wrote:You been reading my notes again? :twisted:
Nah, but you know what they say, "sick minds think alike" or something like that... :tongue:

Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 11:32 am
by FredS
KurtHuhn wrote:Luckily Karin wasn't home, because until I get my electric HT oven finished I use the small convection/toaster oven to temper - and the whole house will smell like smoked oil. :)
Oh baby, I know that drill. A couple of years ago, I was rebuilding an engine for my hot rod and I sprayed a hight temp clear coat on my polished valve covers. In order to cure correctly, it needs to go through a couple of heat cycles, so I waited until everyone else was gone and put them in the oven. I didn't realize that there was packing (looks like steel wool) under the baffle where pvc valve goes in and it was still soaked in oil. Even though I had 3 hours to air out the house before Kim got home, it didn't help. She got a new oven the next day.

Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 12:05 pm
by KurtHuhn
Oh, man. That's a bad one - motor oil has a very acrid and unique smell. Luckily I use plain mineral oil to quench in, so at worst it smells like paraffin - like when you've just blown out a candle. Only 100x more volume. A little Febreeze usually takes care of that, and nobody is any the wiser. :D