Lots of you will probably already know or use this tip but i thought i would share it with anyone new to pipemaking or woodwork for that matter. And as i was sat next to my computer and camera while doing this little job it was easy to take a picture.
Shellac, especially when diluted to the degree that we use for pipe making purposes, dries very quickly. And if you dont clean your brushed properly it can quickly lead to a solid brush that while easy to soften again, is prone to damage and to be fair, a pain in the ass, lol. This is a good technique that keeps your brush and shellac ready to use, and it wastes very little as the brush goes right back in the pot ready for the next time.
Simple take your shellac bottle, drill an appropriate hole in the lid and insert your shellac brush (i have recently got myself a new one as my last one was starting to look a little dog eared, lol). On both the inside and outside make a good plug from epoxy so its well seated and sealed. Job done.
This is the picture of my new brush, i prefer a goat hair mop for this job and i have just used a slightly larger size than last time, the bigger the brush of course the quicker it is to cover the pipe so you can wipe it off again without it going sticky. I also set it about 1/4" above the bottom of the bottle so the hair is not squashed up but still stays submerged in the shellac.
Thanks for the tip
Shellac is new for me and have yet to try it but I am going to very soon can you give me a proper mix ratio that would be suitable for pipes
Thanks again
Listen.... you can't live long enough to make all your own mistakes !
Charles E. Davis
There's a lot of misunderstandings about the use of shellac on pipes - mostly from the point of view of customers. It all started, if I recall correctly, with the observation that some basket pipes were actually very shiny with a durable shell finish - but despite looking rather nice they smoked like crap. This lead some folks who didn't know the different types of wood finishes to take the leap of assumption that if a pipe maker used shellac, their pipes will smoke like crap. The supposition is that the finish seals the wood, doesn't allow it to breathe, promotes souring, smokes wet, makes you impotent, and is responsible for the economic depression.
That is, of course, bullshit.
While shellac does provide some minor longevity to a pipe's shine, it is not applied in thick layers like one might do to a piece of cabinetry, or an electric guitar. It's primary use is to help set stains and provide a basis for the application of carnuba. While I do admit that there are some pipes out there that appear to have to sort of polymer or lacquer finish on them, and that these pipes tend to stay shiny for quite some time, that's not the function of shellac.
If you're going to step into this, you should be prepared to deal with the superstition and naysayers. Folks are going to roast you, especially if you're a new pipe maker - because you're an easy target.
You want a very light mix of shellac, no the thick mixes that you find in cans at the hardware store. The best method is to mix it yourself using flake shellac and denatured alcohol. The resulting mix should be about the viscous consistency of apple cider - and resemble it in looks as well. There's no right or wrong way as long as you don't mix it too thick - start with a typical 16oz pickle jar, fill with shellac flakes up to about halfway, pour in denatured alcohol until it's just over the flakes, and let it sit. The flakes will dissolve over the course of a day or so. Add more alcohol if it's too thick. You can, in the absence of flakes, dilute canned shellac.
To apply the shellac to a smooth pipe, swab on the shellac heavily with a brush or folded over pipe cleaner, count to 10, and wipe it off with a dust-free rag. You may repeat the process. Do not leave a thick layer of shellac to dry on the pipe - it looks very bad as it wears. And it can also bubble from the heat of smoking, especially if you have a thin walled pipe.
For a rusticated or sandblasted pipe, apply lightly with a brush, or use spray shellac (Todd Johnson's suggestion IIRC). Don't daub it on heavy and let it drip all over while it dries - again, the goal is to set stain and provide a modicum of resiliency for the shine, not to make the pipe super shiny.
