pipemakersforum.com

kbadkar wrote:

ToddJohnson wrote:

stummel bum wrote:I would definitely second the heat gun. If you plan on making pipes (more than 1 or two for fun that is) it would be worth $20 in time and effort saved.

I'm not really sure you're saving any "time" or "effort," but yes, it's been well worth the $20 to use it as a bellows or my wood stove. You can't make pipes with frozen fingers, really.

TJ

Is an alcohol burner that much better?

It's a simple enough procedure with a heat gun and reducer attachment, though it may take a minute longer to heat up to pliable.

My point wasn't that one is necessarily better, just that a heat gun isn't saving you any time or effort. Whatever you're comfortable with, really. My other point was that I use my heat gun as a bellows for my wood stove because I forget to feed it, get cold, and then have to throw a few logs on dead coals. Blasting the whole thing with 2000 degree air tends to get it rollin' pretty quickly, and for me, that's twenty bucks well spent.

TJ

ToddJohnson wrote:My point wasn't that one is necessarily better, just that a heat gun isn't saving you any time or effort.

TJ

Better than a shot of Everclear and a Bic?

You are getting into it again, boys. It's just a frigging heat source. Let it be. Todd, being sophisticatedly smart with a technical issue is dangerous (or at least time and keyboard-labor consuming )

I think an alcohol burner has the advantage of giving you more freedom in using specific part of the flame (inner layers of flame being much cooler than outer) while keeping the flexibility of bimanual manipulation of the stem. Anyway, that's just a rookie's conjecture.

m.c. wrote:You are getting into it again, boys. It's just a frigging heat source. Let it be. Todd, being sophisticatedly smart with a technical issue is dangerous (or at least time and keyboard-labor consuming )

I think an alcohol burner has the advantage of giving you more freedom in using specific part of the flame (inner layers of flame being much cooler than outer) while keeping the flexibility of bimanual manipulation of the stem. Anyway, that's just a rookie's conjecture.

Wha?

Several years ago when I first started making pipes, I used to boil the stems - per instructions found somewhere, possibly the PIMO book. Unfortunately I ended up getting frustrated by the fact that tenon would change dimension during the process. I tried hanging the tenon end of the stem out of the pot, but keeping it in one place was an exercise in futility. The one time I did manage to keep the tenon out of the water, it got burned to a crisp from the heat rising from the gas flame.

Moving along, I experimented with heating the stems in the toaster oven. However this had the same effect on the tenon.

Next up was trying the alcohol flame method, which was effective but fiddly - at least for me. Open flame like that in my workshop didn't make me comfortable either.

One day I grabbed my heat gun since I was out of alcohol for the lamp, and decided to give it a shot. Lo and behold, it worked just as well as the Alcohol lamp, with the added benefit of me being comfortable with the tool - so I stuck with it.

I think the end result, as I've always told people who ask me what tool to use for a given function, is to use the tool you're most comfortable with. If the tool is effective, and allows you to complete a function in a short amount of time, and you're comfortable with it, chances are that's the best tool for you to be using.

BTW: I don't have an additional nozzle for my heat gun. I lost those years ago. Essentially I use Todd's method, but with a different heat source. The alcohol goes into my body instead. Especially useful when it's 8 degrees outside.

Yea, the alcohol lamp always seemed like a waste of good moonshine to me. I still like the organic methane technique myself. Its free and eco-friendly!

I use a propane torch with a flame spreader tip, mostly 'cuz I'm a pyro... then again, my bends usually suck.

I'm with Kurt, the alcohol is for internal use. I'd use Nick's method, but I can't seem to maintain more than a 5-10 second blast of organic methane.

And when my shop stove almost goes out, I use a 500,000 BTU propane weed burner to reignite. It has the helpful side effect of blowing all the coal soot out the top of the chimney. I have a nice 50-foot-radius circle of black snow around the garage as I type.

Alan L wrote: I'd use Nick's method, but I can't seem to maintain more than a 5-10 second blast of organic methane.

A steady diet of beans an turips can help.

I've found the heat gun approach works best for me, as well. One other tip - I bought myself an inexpensive pair of leather welding gloves; I heat the stem up to the appropriate bending temp, and then bend it by hand. The gloves protect from the heat, and the leather doesn't mar the stem, and allows for nice, precise bends.

I use Wells Lamont leather gloves because they were endorsed by Paul Harvey.

And they were 3 pair for $9.95 at Lowes a few years ago.

Rad

RadDavis wrote:I use Wells Lamont leather gloves because they were endorsed by Paul Harvey.

And they were 3 pair for $9.95 at Lowes a few years ago.

Rad

And.......now you know the rest of the story.

Good day!

If i may suggest, if there is nothing else available of the possibilities mentioned above a hair drier will also do the trick ,just put it into second gear and with some patients moving the stem up and down you will also get the results and a good control on the heat you want to be applied .