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I'm not able to make the jump to hand cut stems because of shop issues (don't have one... stinkin apartment ). Anyway since I have to use premolds, I want to make sure I have control over the style I'm getting. I was looking around at JH Lowe for saddle bits, and I can't really decipher their descriptions. Does anyone know the difference between a Danish style and a Short Flange in relation to saddles? The generic ones I've been getting have come with a rounded off saddle and I was looking for something a little more square (not a square bit, just a more defined saddle). Thanks.

That's my biggest complaint about Tim's site (Tim West runs J.H Lowe). If you don't know what you are looking for specifically, you are pretty lost without some pics to help (kinda the way I feel when i try to find a product on mcMaster Carr's site )

One suggestion I have if you want to buy from Tim is to look at other sites like PME and see if you can figure out what the heck you are looking for and then try to find the same thing on Tim's site. That's the passive internet lurker method.

The best method, of course, is to just call Tim outright. He's super helpful, and his helpfulness makes up for the problems his site has.

I second calling Tim. He's very helpful.

Call, don't use email. He loves calls, dislikes emails. Voice of experience. bob

Big phone bill ?
Art

I'll third calling Tim. He was the first pipemaker I ever talked with. He sold me my first briar and supplies. He also generously gave me several hours of his time over the phone several times filled with tips and cautions. Well worth the call, if only to chat with an American pipemaking legend.

Best,

Jeff

SB I'm not sure I understand your logic. Why can't you do hand cut? I used to make chessboards and chess sets in a 5x5 storage room so this better be good.

Flipside is, if you order big stems, you can cut them down as you need. When I was using premolds, I mostly ordered the big fat ones because it turns out that they have little tiny ones hidden inside, you just have to kind of scrape away at the shell, ya know?

For the carving you are managing on stummels, I don't for one second believe that you can't shape a stem. That's utter bullshit dude.

Sasquatch wrote:SB I'm not sure I understand your logic. Why can't you do hand cut? I used to make chessboards and chess sets in a 5x5 storage room so this better be good.

Flipside is, if you order big stems, you can cut them down as you need. When I was using premolds, I mostly ordered the big fat ones because it turns out that they have little tiny ones hidden inside, you just have to kind of scrape away at the shell, ya know?

For the carving you are managing on stummels, I don't for one second believe that you can't shape a stem. That's utter bullshit dude.

Man, you had to call BS on me I guess I'm just lazy. But seriously, I have about 2"x5" of floor space in my computer room with all my hand tools spread out. I go out on the deck and sit in a lawn chair to run the drill (sanding disc) and the dremel, but other wise I'm sitting in my computer chair working off the floor. It sucks. I don't even have a table to work off of I also figure I would at least need something to mount a vise to if I wanted to drill an airway. I suck at freehand drilling though. As soon as I get some kind of sturdy bench and a drill press, I'll give it a go. I'm sure I could shape one look like a stem, but getting it to fit and actually work are two different things.

And everyone else, thanks for the advise on calling Tim about the stem info.

Yea, I was wondering about why you couldn't do handcut stems too, but yea, without something to drill the drafthole into the rod, you're pretty screwed.

Fingernails!

You young'ns have no sense of commitment.

Even if you had the necessary equipment, cutting stems inside your apartment probably would not make you very popular with the neighbors. The smell of burning rubber inside an apartment building may even prompt a 911 call.

pennsyscot wrote:Even if you had the necessary equipment, cutting stems inside your apartment probably would not make you very popular with the neighbors. The smell of burning rubber inside an apartment building may even prompt a 911 call.

I'm sure they hate me enough as it is running my tools all hours of the day I do try to make sure I'm quiet by 3AM or so:mrgreen: Isn't that when most people start going to bed? I'm not sure.

Screw em. They should be making pipes.

No, they should be SMOKING the pipes he makes.

stummel bum wrote:... for saddle bits, and I can't really decipher their descriptions. (snip) The generic ones I've been getting have come with a rounded off saddle and I was looking for something a little more square (not a square bit, just a more defined saddle). Thanks.

If I understand you correctly, the premoldeds you are getting have a saddle radius that is too shallow for your liking? A small round file (needle or chainsaw file) will tighten up the radius. After filing, wrap sandpaper around the file to remove file marks.

Frank wrote:

stummel bum wrote:... for saddle bits, and I can't really decipher their descriptions. (snip) The generic ones I've been getting have come with a rounded off saddle and I was looking for something a little more square (not a square bit, just a more defined saddle). Thanks.

If I understand you correctly, the premoldeds you are getting have a saddle radius that is too shallow for your liking? A small round file (needle or chainsaw file) will tighten up the radius. After filing, wrap sandpaper around the file to remove file marks.

That's what I've been doing, I was just thinking that it would save time if I could find some that came that way.

When I am able to start getting some better tools for making my own stems, what would be the first thing I would want to get (other than something to drill with. It seems that a belt grinder would be the most logical choice. Is 2" the preferred width?

Get a drill press first, above all. Then, if you find yourself wanting to speed up the roughing in process, you have a couple choices. Either a belt grinder/sander, or a shaping disc.

For belt grinders, there are two major belt sizes that can be found in grits from 24 to 800 - 1x42 and 2x72. The 1x42 is too small for rough shaping a stummel in my opinion, but is perfect for stem work. The 2x72, depending on how you get it configured, is good for any number of things. For pipes, I prefer a contact wheel. For knives I change out the contact wheel with a flat platen. Your choices are literally endless in terms of construction.

For a shaping disc, you can either rig something up yourself, or use something that another craftsman has made. A lot of folks use resin backed grinding wheels attached to a specially made arbor mounted on an electric motor.

I use both belt and disc, depending on what my needs are. And I use both 2x72 and 1x42 grinders. Each has its place for specific functions.

Thanks Kurt. The drill press is #1 on my list for sure. Then a belt grinder. Then a bandsaw. Then... well you know the list never ends.

stummel bum wrote:When I am able to start getting some better tools for making my own stems, what would be the first thing I would want to get (other than something to drill with. It seems that a belt grinder would be the most logical choice. Is 2" the preferred width?

As Kurt said, start with a drill press. Aside from pipemaking, it is one of the most used power tools in any workshop.

Woodworking belt sanders aren't too expensive, if that's what you're looking for. However, unless you're a dab-hand like Kurt and can put together a versatile belt grinder, the kind he is describing tend to be rather expensive, starting at around $500 for a cheapy and costing considerably more for a decent one. If you want to go the less expensive route, use the motor and disc arrangement. Kurt sells an excellent adapter for those here: http://www.pipecrafter.com/pipes/tools/motor_arbor.php