Contrast finish

[pennsyscot]

At what stage of sanding should I apply the lighter stain? Do you apply lighter stain more than once? Buffing removes some of the stain applied after sanding to higher grits. I don't think that leather dye penetrates the wood very well at 600 and 1000. I want a bright yellow and black finish, like Eltang. I appreciate any suggestions.

[KurtHuhn]

Tom's contrast stain is made using a chemical process, not stain. You may come close with stain, but it's very difficult to replicate unless you use the same process.

You could get a good start by staining after 220 grit, sanding then staining after 320, sanding then staining after 400, sanding at 600, sanding at 1000 and lightly applying top stain. Don't buff off, or only lightly buff with tripoli. This is fraught with peril, however. If you use alcohol soluble stains for both top and bottom coat, the bottom coat may lift when you apply the top. Try to use stains that are soluble in different carriers.

Beyond that, it's all experimentation.

[Sasquatch]

And perfect PERFECT sanding.

[DMI]

I have had some success using spirit dye as the finishing coat on top of dark brown contrast. I apply the contrast at 220, 320,400 then agian, then polish on a wheel. Use alcohol to remove any wax or carrier left from the polishing, then leave for 48 hours. Use a cloth to apply the final dye, you need to build up the colour slowly, if you apply to much the contast may start to leech, give each coat time to dry. As you have already done the polishing you can go straight to shellac and wax, I tend to re-polish with my finest compound (glass polish 2000girt) to check for colour variation then refinish.

I've also tried food colouring (pretty good) and pigment ink (my yellow makes a really nice golden orange), but there is a problem with the colour coming off on your hands.