long belt sander

[KurtHuhn]

Whatever you do, don't get one of these. It's utter crap:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Belt-Sa ... -30-/H3140

I use cheaper version of this, sold by Harbor Frieght for $29, to do just about everything.

More power to you. I found that I could easily overpower it just by pressing a vulcanite rod into the belt with moderate pressure. You're either more patient, or lucked out considerably.

[KurtHuhn]

The Grizzly 1015 so called knife sander is too fast to properly use for knife work. Especially if you spend the extra bucks for the larger contact wheel.

I agree, and yet folks are using them with excellent results. I don't know how, but you can't argue with the knives they're making. I suppose if it's the only tool you have, you figure out how to work around its shortcomings.

[Uncle Arthur]

True enough Kurt.

[geigerpipes]

I've found that if you want to use these for speeding up finish sanding of stummels and stem work you will need to be able to controll speed... especially for finer grits of sanding belts like 400-600 and for more complex shapes that aren't just round. at higher speeds you run the risk of distorting the shape.Having a way to adjust the tension of the belts is also good. Get belts of the most flexible thin backing.. we use belts that are a little more than an inch wide IMO a 2 inch belt will limit you for pipe work.

Our motor is a 1500rpm 0.75 hp with what looks about the same pully setup like tano and we rarley run it at top speed.

If you cannot afford a frequency modulator it would be better to power it with a drill as that can be contolled speedwise.. only set back is that it is more noisy.

Our vilage smitthy is yet to go under the tree he is in his 80ties has been a smitty for 60 years and can do just about anything with a peice of steel from forging damascus to turning and frazing..a wealth of knowlege.

[pennsyscot]

Whatever you do, don't get one of these. It's utter crap:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Belt-Sa ... -30-/H3140

I use cheaper version of this, sold by Harbor Frieght for $29, to do just about everything.

More power to you. I found that I could easily overpower it just by pressing a vulcanite rod into the belt with moderate pressure. You're either more patient, or lucked out considerably.

patient and poor

[Charl]

I've found that if you want to use these for speeding up finish sanding of stummels and stem work you will need to be able to controll speed

Will something like a 3 step pulley work as well? For poor people like me.

[geigerpipes]

I've found that if you want to use these for speeding up finish sanding of stummels and stem work you will need to be able to controll speed

Will something like a 3 step pulley work as well? For poor people like me.

Well ofcource it would

[archaggelosmichail]

I'm trying to built my own belt sander and I have a really serious problem.
My motor is 1hp, 3/4inch drive shaft with frenquency modulator but I just cant find a way to mount the belt to the shaft.
Any ideas?

Michail

[Tyler]

I'm trying to built my own belt sander and I have a really serious problem.
My motor is 1hp, 3/4inch drive shaft with frenquency modulator but I just cant find a way to mount the belt to the shaft.
Any ideas?

Michail

http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/

[KurtHuhn]

http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/[/quote]

Half the knife makers in the U.S. can't be wrong.

[Alan L]

Yep, Rob at KMG/Beaumont is the guy to talk to.

I use my KMG with the slack belt attachment (the platen mount with the platen removed) for pipemaking as well as knives/swords/everything else that needs grinding/sanding. I don't have the variable speed motor (too pricy!) but I use the step pulleys with a 1750 rpm motor. At the slowest speed it won't burn briar or your hands with a sharp belt.

Belts are of course the most important part of this setup. You will want a J-weight (aka j-flex) for finishing up. I get my belts from http://www.trugrit.com/ . They have every size you can imagine in most grits you can think of.

Cheap and easy hint-o-the-day: When you need a 1/2" wide belt to get into the corners, don't try to find a 1/2" x 72" belt. Take a standard 2x72 belt, carefully poke a knife blade through it in one spot 1/2" from the edge, holding the blade absolutely parallel to the belt. Remove knife, tear belt with hands. And there you go: you now have a 1/2" wide 72" belt with one soft edge that won't cut into the corners, and an extra 1.5" belt to play with.

A J-weight belt can be doubled over as well. Be warned that will give you a VERY sharp edge that acts kind of like a bandsaw. For that matter, the edge of any of the heavier-weight belts will happily slice your fingers right off, and a belt-sander cut does not heal quickly or cleanly. They also eat fingernails.

[Archer]

Well if you need variable speed motors, you could frankenstein a sewing machine motor and pedal, or a scroll saw motor which has a speed range from 500-1700 rpm...Im just sayin.....