"glue"

[bandkbrooks]

I've seen some posts about using something to fill the holes even in the tobacco chamber. What is it called? It usually gets listed as two letters. Maybe CA CL etc. Where can I get it? There are a couple of rough spots inside one of my tobacco chambers and I want to fix them.

[TRS]

CA (cyanoacrylate adhesive) is Super Glue; I don't know about using it inside the tobacco chamber though....

[bandkbrooks]

Thank you. How would it be used otherwise?

[MenguantE]

I think that CA is a litte toxic when is heated, but usually it's used outside the chamber, to fix that spots that are outside, but not in contact with hot air...
Correct me if i'm wrong.

[TRS]

I think some people have mixed it with briar dust and used it to fill small cracks and holes in the briar.

[flix]

I've used cigar ash mixed with water (spit?) to repair holes in chambers with very good results.

[RadDavis]

I've used cigar ash mixed with water (spit?) to repair holes in chambers with very good results.

That's what I would do. Some people use tile grout, which is water based, and imparts no flavor.

You don't want any glue in your tobacco chamber. Super glue doesn't like heat, and it breaks down. So will epoxy.

Probably neither one of them would taste very good.

Rad

[SimeonTurner]

Tile grout? Really?

Wow....learn something new every day...

[Sasquatch]

Rad, just because YOU don't like the taste of burning epoxy... doesn't mean everybody doesn't, okay? I've almost perfected an epoxy/broccoli chamber coating, so don't burst my bubble.

Brandon, cyanoacrylate is sometimes used in conjunction with briar dust to form a sort of putty for doing fills (on the outside of a pipe) which will take stain and polish up etc. Sort of an invisible patch, if you will.

[ToddJohnson]

Rad, just because YOU don't like the taste of burning epoxy... doesn't mean everybody doesn't, okay? I've almost perfected an epoxy/broccoli chamber coating, so don't burst my bubble.

Brandon, cyanoacrylate is sometimes used in conjunction with briar dust to form a sort of putty for doing fills (on the outside of a pipe) which will take stain and polish up etc. Sort of an invisible patch, if you will.

For the record, I don't know any professional pipemaker who actually mixes briar dust with CA to form a putty and then plugs holes with it. Unfortunately, this is the perception of some collectors, who equate CA with a "fill." In this case, I think it would indeed constitute a fill since you're actually pushing a foreign substance into a hole/pit/fissure in the wood to bring it up to grade. I realize we're just talking about making a serviceable pipe for the maker to smoke himself, but I do want to correct the misperception that this is common practice. And I'm with Rad about CA or epoxy in the tobacco chamber--don't do it.

TJ

[m.c.]

Rad, just because YOU don't like the taste of burning epoxy... doesn't mean everybody doesn't...

That's a perfect way to blend pipesmoking with glue sniffing!

For an outside filling, most industrial glue based putty might be ok if class and grade is not the concern. But inside the chamber...Well although I haven't tried and can't tell whether it's workable, anyway I don't have the guts to.

If some binding agent is to be used with briar dust, I would choose something natural. I have tried glutinous rice (steamed and kneaded into fine paste) on corncobs (without briar dust) with good result. While technically it's not strictly taste neutral, it doesn't impart any foul taste since it's cereal like corn. Using glutinous rice as a reinforcing concrete binder was literally an "ancient Chinese secret" on some centuries old constructions including the Great Wall.

P.S. That's about the inside chamber. I don't know what is the right material for outside filling.

[Mark Beattie]

Rad, just because YOU don't like the taste of burning epoxy... doesn't mean everybody doesn't...

That's a perfect way to blend pipesmoking with glue sniffing!

For an outside filling, most industrial glue based putty might be ok if class and grade is not the concern. But inside the chamber...Well although I haven't tried and can't tell whether it's workable, anyway I don't have the guts to.

If some binding agent is to be used with briar dust, I would choose something natural. I have tried glutinous rice (steamed and kneaded into fine paste) on corncobs (without briar dust) with good result. While technically it's not strictly taste neutral, it doesn't impart any foul taste since it's cereal like corn. Using glutinous rice as a reinforcing concrete binder was literally an "ancient Chinese secret" on some centuries old constructions including the Great Wall.

P.S. That's about the inside chamber. I don't know what is the right material for outside filling.

I ran into a really bad block while attempting a billiard shape recently. I wanted to salvage the pipe to satisfy my ego, more than anything else, so I decided to try the 'rice fill' mentioned above. One tablespoon of rice in a coffee blender for a minute produces a fine dust and when mixed with equal parts water and boiled, produces a fine 'rice goop' which is inserted into your fissure/pit with a syringe or sewing needle. After a couple hours of drying time it can be sanded to a fine finish. This method worked well after I has used a leather dye to stain the bowl.

Just thought I'd chime in.

Mark

[DMI]

Hot CA gives of cyanide and another couple of really bad gasses so is a no no in the chamber or on the rim.

Externally two part wood or car filler works well.

The big problem with ca/dust as a filler is that it takes a polish better than briar so when the initial polish has worn away you end up with a really shiny black bit that sticks out like a sore thumb.

Any flaws bigger than a pinhead get the pipe rusticated or reshaped, pinhead and smaller I fill with ca and 24ct gold dust thereby making a feature of it.

David.

[AldenW]

Any flaws bigger than a pinhead get the pipe rusticated or reshaped, pinhead and smaller I fill with ca and 24ct gold dust thereby making a feature of it.

David.

Where do you guys get your gold dust? That always seemed like a cool idea.

[DMI]

EBAY

[AldenW]

EBAY

Something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/pure-99-99-24k- ... 475wt_1185
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLD-SHAVINGS-F ... 475wt_1185
?

[DMI]

Close, the stuff I have really is dust and behaves more like a liquid at times.

PS The gold fills is one of my trademarks............................

David.

[mightysmurf8201]

Doesn't CA glue set incredibly fast? You must have to work quickly mixing the gold dust and applying the fill. I've know I've glued my fingers together more than once with that stuff

[taharris]

Hot CA gives of cyanide and another couple of really bad gasses so is a no no in the chamber or on the rim.

Externally two part wood or car filler works well.

The big problem with ca/dust as a filler is that it takes a polish better than briar so when the initial polish has worn away you end up with a really shiny black bit that sticks out like a sore thumb.

Any flaws bigger than a pinhead get the pipe rusticated or reshaped, pinhead and smaller I fill with ca and 24ct gold dust thereby making a feature of it.

David.

David is absolutely correct! Never put CA glue anywhere near the chamber or the rim.
(Unless, of course you are trying to dwindle your customer base. )

Todd

[AldenW]

Close, the stuff I have really is dust and behaves more like a liquid at times.

PS The gold fills is one of my trademarks............................

David.

Well I do know you're not the only guy I've seen who does it. I'd love to know which dust in particular you're talking about, but if you wanna keep that info to yourself that's your prerogative of course.

Just so you know I'm not makin' things up, I actually got the idea from meathod (http://www.dmpipes.com/pipes.html). He uses crushed stone and gold inlay in many of his very unique designs.