Shank ring?

[ricebiscuit]

I know a round shank ring is normally done on the lathe and then placed over a tenon on the shank. But what about an asymmetrical one? I may be getting dangerously close to some secrets here but I would really like to learn how to do this. Hopefully these pictures of two J Alan pipes I really like will give a better example of what I am talking about. Thanks, RB

[ToddJohnson]

They are shaped and radiused by hand once the pipe is completely finished. I wish there was some secret trick to it, but its just really precise meticulous work done very well. If done correctly, there should be a small border around the perimeter of the shank that's no more than a couple thousandths of an inch before the radius starts. Easier when you see it done.

TJ

[DMI]

No secret just common sense, shape the stummel then make the plate for the end whatever shape you like and glue it on with epoxy.

Drill the hole for the mortice first and use some temporary glue to hold the plate in place, once it is mounted draw around the shank onto the plate, remove the plate and you have a minimum size.

The first one I did split after a couple of weeks so you need to be sure of the wood you are using.

David.

[KurtHuhn]

The method Todd described is what I use. In addition it should be noted that the shank cap is usually the last thing to be adhered to a pipe when it's done in that manner.

Also you will want a short tenon of briar that extends through the cap, and that is what ensures it's going to go in the same place every time you test fit it during final "fiddly work". Also, that short tenon works wonders for keeping the shank cap solidly in place once the pipe is completed. It also helps prevent it from cracking since it won't be used a structural part of the pipe, just a decorative part.

[ricebiscuit]

Thanks for the explanations. I was hoping there was some trick or easier way. We will see if i have the guts to try this later today. Speaking of woods for the rings- There must be woods that are better suited for this and others that are prone to cracking. Any recommendations on what to use and what not to? Or with the small brair tenon, will most woods hold up? Thanks again- Trey

[KurtHuhn]

Most woods are fine for this as long as they're properly dry before being used. Your profile doesn't list your location, but if you're in the US, both Rockler and Woodcraft have thickness sanded boards in a variety of wood species. I tend to like the 3/32" to 1/8" thickness boards. This way the board is ready for flat sanding and drilling - it takes, literally, 30 seconds to prep the piece for shaping.

But other than that, you can use pretty much any wood.