Im new to this :)

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CastAxe
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Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 4:33 pm
Location: Spring Lake, MI

Im new to this :)

Post by CastAxe »

Hi everyone,
Im new to pipe making and was wondering if i could get some tips. I dont have much money to invest into a lathe, a bandsaw, or any of those other fancy machines. So i use my drill and an array of other hand tools. Just a few questions,
-What are some good methods to obtain the shape of pipe desired using a file and disc sander?
-Getting the block square with handsaw's and sandpaper?
-Finish sanding, and staining, what are some good methods, color combos ect.?
-Finally i have been using cherry wood because it is free and readily available to me, is cherry a good wood to use when crafting pipes?
Any positive feedback would be greatly appreciated :)
"If at first you don't succeed, try, try again."
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Dixie_piper
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Location: Hartwell, GA

Re: Im new to this :)

Post by Dixie_piper »

Welcome!
Use the search function on the forum here and you'll have many answers to many questions from MANY skilled pipe makers.
There's a ton of information, along with traditional and alternative methods on here already just waiting to inform you. Good luck! :thumbsup:
Regards,
Adam

Veo Vendice
&
Deum Timete
(family motto)
CastAxe
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Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 4:33 pm
Location: Spring Lake, MI

Re: Im new to this :)

Post by CastAxe »

thanks! :)
"If at first you don't succeed, try, try again."
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Dixie_piper
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Re: Im new to this :)

Post by Dixie_piper »

No problem, I've yet to make my first pipe yet an been at it for months.
As far as tools, PIMO (pimopipecrafter.com) has a "how to" book that explains how to make a pipe from beginning to end with tools that you already have most of, and an interesting home made drilling rig.
As far as cherry for wood, most any fruit wood is acceptable, Briar is still preferred. You can find it affordably via the links @ pipedia.com
If you're using Cherry, make sure that it is properly seasoned. If you're just getting it out of the yard, you'll be better off to buy some blocks at your local lumber supplier (Lowes, Home Depot, etc) because until wood is properly cured, dried or whatever, it still has a tendency to warp, split or any number of undesirable things.
I came here with intention of making "walnut pipes" from my own timbers. After realizing what all was involved to make it usable, I decided paying for Briar wasn't a bad idea.
Regards,
Adam

Veo Vendice
&
Deum Timete
(family motto)
CastAxe
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Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 4:33 pm
Location: Spring Lake, MI

Re: Im new to this :)

Post by CastAxe »

Thanks for the great tips, all the cherry wood that i have to use has been laying in the woods for about a year so i highly doubt that it has cured correctly being out in the elements and all. Here is my first attempt.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=4 ... 0604000672
"If at first you don't succeed, try, try again."
CastAxe
Posts: 69
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 4:33 pm
Location: Spring Lake, MI

Re: Im new to this :)

Post by CastAxe »

You might have to look around to find the semi finished project.
"If at first you don't succeed, try, try again."
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KurtHuhn
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Re: Im new to this :)

Post by KurtHuhn »

Cherry is a perfectly acceptable wood for a smoking pipe. Briar is the "traditional" wood, but there are tons of others that are good for pipes. Just be sure to find well cured and seasoned wood. Green wood is easy to turn on a lathe, but doesn't sand for anything, and cracks while it dries. When making pipes from other woods, I like to use maple, cherry, and walnut bowl and turnery blanks from Woodcraft since I have one local to me. The wood is usually pretty dry, and isn't full of chemical stabilizers.

You won't get the block square with sandpaper and hand saws, so don't waste your effort. Instead, just start making it into the shape you want once it's drilled.

To shape by hand, I suggest a few different types of files - rasp, bastard cut, and single cut smooth. The rasp and bastard cut files will remove material quickly, while the single cut smooth will help you fine tune. If you have a disc sander that can be fitted with a low grit disc, like 36 grit, you make shaping go a lot faster. Problem is, a lot of random orbit disc sanders are unsuited to this, since the moment you press a block of wood into them, they actually stop spinning. That's why a lot of folks use an electric motor to provide a direct drive setup for a resin fiber grinding disc.
Kurt Huhn
AKA: Oversized Ostrogoth
artisan@k-huhn.com
CastAxe
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Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2010 4:33 pm
Location: Spring Lake, MI

Re: Im new to this :)

Post by CastAxe »

Thanks, all this feedback is awesome! I really feel like a welcome member here :)
"If at first you don't succeed, try, try again."
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