Delta Mini Lathe LA200
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Delta Mini Lathe LA200
I have found one available in my area with bed extension for $200 cash, but am unsure if it could be made into a good tool for pipemaking or what the cost for proper tooling to start might be.
There is nothing like being left alone again, to walk peacefully with oneself in the woods. To boil one's coffee and fill one's pipe, and to think idly and slowly as one does it.
~ Knut Hamsun
~ Knut Hamsun
- Tyler
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- Location: Farmersville, TX
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Delta Mini Lathe LA200
It's a good tool and a very decent price if in good working order? Does it come with anything by way of tooling?
Tyler Lane Pipes
http://www.tylerlanepipes.com
http://www.tylerlanepipes.com
- KurtHuhn
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Re: Delta Mini Lathe LA200
$200 for that lathe is a great price, and if it includes any tooling, it's likely to be a steal.
Taking into mind your previous request along these lines....
The first thing that you're going to want is a suitable chuck for the headstock. There are lots of choices out there, but regardless of the brand you're going to want a 4-jaw scroll chuck (one that closes all 4 jaws at the same time). I have a Oneway chuck, and I think this is a a great entry chuck for a anyone with a midi/mini size lathe. Be sure to get the right thread insert - 1"x8tpi:
http://www.oneway.ca/chucks/oneway.htm
If you get a chuck body/jaw package, it will probably come with #2 jaws. These are good jaws for holding blocks for most woodturning, and CAN be used to hold briar blocks (I did so for a couple years) but what you really want are the tower jaws, since they give you much more depth of hold and a firmer grip on your briar. They're far more suited to pipes of odd shapes and deep angles than the standard #2 jaws since you can grab more of the block. Be sure to get the #2 PROFILED Tower jaws:
http://www.oneway.ca/chucks/accessories/tower_jaws.htm
Another useful chuck jaw to have is the #1 Spigot jaws, for gripping rod stock, preform stems, delrin rod, etc.
http://www.oneway.ca/chucks/accessories/spigot_jaws.htm
For your tailstock, the bit on the end with the crank, you will need a MT #2 (morse taper #2) Jacobs chuck, also called a "drill chuck". Get one with 1/2" capacity, you're going to need it. Don't bother with a keyless chuck. You're going to want the extra tightening power of a keyed chuck:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store ... huck?Args=
Next, at a minimum, you're going to need some drill bits.
http://www.freudtools.com/p-297-precisi ... -nbsp.aspx
Now you're faced with drilling the tobacco chamber. Here you can go one of two ways: reground spade bit, or reground silver & demming bit. Both are as close as the local hardware store. The re-grinding is beyond the scope of this post, but both are stunningly easy to do. I prefer the silver & demming bit. Perhaps a post to show one of each being done is in order?
Now, to turn the shank or top of the bowl where appropriate, you're going to want a set of lathe chisels. I prefer to use:
Taking into mind your previous request along these lines....
The first thing that you're going to want is a suitable chuck for the headstock. There are lots of choices out there, but regardless of the brand you're going to want a 4-jaw scroll chuck (one that closes all 4 jaws at the same time). I have a Oneway chuck, and I think this is a a great entry chuck for a anyone with a midi/mini size lathe. Be sure to get the right thread insert - 1"x8tpi:
http://www.oneway.ca/chucks/oneway.htm
If you get a chuck body/jaw package, it will probably come with #2 jaws. These are good jaws for holding blocks for most woodturning, and CAN be used to hold briar blocks (I did so for a couple years) but what you really want are the tower jaws, since they give you much more depth of hold and a firmer grip on your briar. They're far more suited to pipes of odd shapes and deep angles than the standard #2 jaws since you can grab more of the block. Be sure to get the #2 PROFILED Tower jaws:
http://www.oneway.ca/chucks/accessories/tower_jaws.htm
Another useful chuck jaw to have is the #1 Spigot jaws, for gripping rod stock, preform stems, delrin rod, etc.
http://www.oneway.ca/chucks/accessories/spigot_jaws.htm
For your tailstock, the bit on the end with the crank, you will need a MT #2 (morse taper #2) Jacobs chuck, also called a "drill chuck". Get one with 1/2" capacity, you're going to need it. Don't bother with a keyless chuck. You're going to want the extra tightening power of a keyed chuck:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store ... huck?Args=
Next, at a minimum, you're going to need some drill bits.
- 5/16" bit for the mortis (McMaster-Carr #8947A128)
- 5/32" bit for the airway (McMaster-Carr #8947A117, #8870A21, and #29515A62 for short, jobber, and long length)
- tapered 5/32" bit for the stem (McMaster-Carr #30915A76)
http://www.freudtools.com/p-297-precisi ... -nbsp.aspx
Now you're faced with drilling the tobacco chamber. Here you can go one of two ways: reground spade bit, or reground silver & demming bit. Both are as close as the local hardware store. The re-grinding is beyond the scope of this post, but both are stunningly easy to do. I prefer the silver & demming bit. Perhaps a post to show one of each being done is in order?
Now, to turn the shank or top of the bowl where appropriate, you're going to want a set of lathe chisels. I prefer to use:
- 1/4" fingernail gouge
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200523 ... Gouge.aspx - 1/16" and 1/8" cutoff tools
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200542 ... -Tool.aspx
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200523 ... -Tool.aspx - 1/2" oval skew
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200523 ... -Skew.aspx
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- Posts: 63
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 12:42 am
- Location: Murfreesboro, TN
- Contact:
Re: Delta Mini Lathe LA200
Thank you both.
Kurt that is a perfect reply if I have ever seen one. I have some spade bits to grind down, i figured that to be the best method for me, and relatively cheap given the expense of everything else. As for forstner bits I also have that covered.
The lathe comes with a few cheap turning tools, but this is definitely the perfect set of responses to get me up and going, I may just buy it this weekend. I was originally gonna do the sanding setup with a motor and all, but I think I would rather have one tool I can do most things on rather than a bunch of tools that do one thing.
Thank you guys for all your help, I am very excited now. Also because I acquired an area that is heated for a shop, so things seem to be falling into place.
Kurt that is a perfect reply if I have ever seen one. I have some spade bits to grind down, i figured that to be the best method for me, and relatively cheap given the expense of everything else. As for forstner bits I also have that covered.
The lathe comes with a few cheap turning tools, but this is definitely the perfect set of responses to get me up and going, I may just buy it this weekend. I was originally gonna do the sanding setup with a motor and all, but I think I would rather have one tool I can do most things on rather than a bunch of tools that do one thing.
Thank you guys for all your help, I am very excited now. Also because I acquired an area that is heated for a shop, so things seem to be falling into place.
There is nothing like being left alone again, to walk peacefully with oneself in the woods. To boil one's coffee and fill one's pipe, and to think idly and slowly as one does it.
~ Knut Hamsun
~ Knut Hamsun