SuperNova2

Discussions of tools wether you bought them or made them yourself. Anything from screwdrivers to custom chucks and drilling rigs.
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hawky454
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SuperNova2

Post by hawky454 »

Hello,

I just purchased a SuperNova2 chuck with a long nose jaw set (equivalent to tower jaws? I hope) Can someone please help me understand how I am to center the briar piece with this chuck? The guys down at the wood shop had no clue (I brought a briar block with me) Do I leave a jaw of and just clamp it down with the 3 jaws? Are the long nose jaws a necessary purchase? My objective is to drill the tobacco chamber as well as the airhole and to turn the bowl and shank to a perfect circumference. I have been making pipes for awhile now with pre-drilled blocks and I'm very passionate about this hobby now so I wanted to up my game by getting a lathe. Now that I have a lathe, I'm an absolute wood turning junkie! So if anyone can find the time to help me understand my very expensive purchase it would be much appreciated!

Thanks,

Dave
Go hang a salami I'm a lasagna hog.
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KurtHuhn
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by KurtHuhn »

That's a four-jaw chuck. What you do is leave two jaws off, and just leave a set of opposing jaws attached.

I'm not really aware of any safety problems with regard to leaving two jaws off. At this point you are basically emulating a two-jaw chuck, which are widely used in a variety of situations.

I can snap a pic if need be. Just let me know....
Kurt Huhn
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hawky454
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by hawky454 »

Also, what is the grub screw for? and is the long jaw set gonna be useful at some point? I'm not to sure I need them?
Go hang a salami I'm a lasagna hog.
adryazad
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by adryazad »

Why hello mate,

seems we're using the same chuck. I've new to pipe making and purchased the same chuck and jaw set combination as you (at least if i recall correctly).

What I do is i only use 2 out of the 4 jaws. Even though we're only using 2 jaws, thankfully the long nose jaws are serrated, at least that helps hold the briar a little better. Thankfully, nothing ill has happened yet (and hopefully never will!)

You can have a look at the pictures below of the briar in the chuck.

Image

Image

As for the grub screw, please refer to the picture below. The grub screw is inserted into that hole, to 'pinch' the chuck to the 'chuck insert @ adapter'.

Here's a picture of where to use the grub screw...

Image

Hope that helps.

Cheers,

Adry
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hawky454
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by hawky454 »

Adry,
Great, thanks so much for the pictures that really helps out a lot! We both have the exact same chuck and jaw adapters...sweet that means we can help each other out if we run into a bind. I see you drew on the chuck where the grub screw is supposed to go but I still don't understand what thats for? Is it necessary to have in there for what we're using the chuck for? Mine also came with these very thin fibre? (may have spelled that wrong) but It says to put that in first and then the grub screw? Please let me know if ya have the answer to that one. Should I not be using the chuck without the grub screw?

Also, Since your pictures came out so great, I would love it if you could show some pictures of the type of drill bits you use for the tobacco chamber and the are hole and how you position the briar before you drill. I still have yet to drill my briar. I'm waiting for a Mt-1 chuck (for tailstock) to come in the mail.

How do you like you're lathe? I'm thinking of eventually upgrading to a Jet. That is a Jet right.

Anyway, thanks again my man!

Talk to ya soon,

Dave

(Sorry to be repetitive about the grub screw.)
Go hang a salami I'm a lasagna hog.
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hawky454
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by hawky454 »

Also, could you all help me decide what kind and size turning tools I need. I bought some pretty small ones and I feel, although they are good, I could use some bigger tools as well. I really just need to know what I need to use to turn the bowl and shank of the stummel. I saw a video on youtube and the guy turning the pipe was using a tool that had flat bottom, sort of like a screw driver head, only bigger and much sharper.

Thanks a lot,

Dave
Last edited by hawky454 on Wed Mar 16, 2011 12:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Boekweg
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by Boekweg »

@ Kurt,

what is the difference in using a 5 speed bench top wood lathe, as opposed to say like a, Jet JHL-610 hobby lathe? or some other bench top type metal lathe? wont they both accomplish the same objective? :?:
Last edited by Boekweg on Tue Mar 29, 2011 1:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
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hawky454
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by hawky454 »

How many licks does it take to get the center of a Tootsie Roll Pop?

P.S. The original format of this post was deleted to cease drama in the forum! Let bygones be bygones.
Last edited by hawky454 on Sun Apr 10, 2011 11:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
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potholer
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by potholer »

hawky454

From a wood turning perspective by a very novice pipemaker

The tool you are on about is a scraper and while you can shape wood with one it is better to use a gouges, bowl gouges would be my choice.
If you watch Kurts video of roughing a billiard is a very good example of turning on a small scale.

Kurt appears to use:
3/4" roughing gouge
3/8" bowl gouge
large forstner bit

I also have a 1/4" bowl gouge

pipe turning appears to be a mix of spindle and bowl turning

regards
dave
"Omne ignotum pro magnifico" - everything becomes common place by explanation :- sherlock holmes
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KurtHuhn
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by KurtHuhn »

I can't recall, but I may have mentioned before that for turning I prefer:
- 1/4" bowl gouge
- 1/2" oval skew
- 3/8" spindle gouge

These days anyway. :D

At the time I made that video, I believe I was indeed using a 3/4" roughing gouge. I've since modified my approach slightly, and that roughing gouge sits idle more often than not.

And, while I do have traditional length lathe chisels (gouges) I find that I prefer to reach for the "midi-size" ones for pipe work when they're available. I find them more suited for use on smaller work like pipes, cups, etc.

And don't make me stop this car, kids. :twisted:
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wdteipen
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by wdteipen »

You have to start somewhere. I think your questions are valid. I jumped in feet first into turning on a lathe a couple years ago and had no clue about anything. This forum is a great place to ask questions no matter how basic they may sound so don't get discouraged by a few folks that think they are too good to answer or be helpful. I remember being just as excited about making pipes as you are. Don't let anyone take that away from you.

As far as turning tools, I prefer the midi ones and if you can afford them the Easy Wood Tools line are great for beginners. Instead of having to invest in sharpening you just replace the carbide cutters. Here's a link:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208021 ... andle.aspx
Wayne Teipen
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hawky454
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by hawky454 »

wdteipen,

Thanks a bunch my man, Thats what I was looking for, just some friendly advice. This information can be a bit overwhelming and sometimes I don't even know where to begin. You're right, ya have to start somewhere. Thanks for the link, I'm gonna check that out right now. I've also purchased several books on the tools and basic techniques but turning a pipe is a whole different game. Thats exactly why I turned to this forum, so I could get some direct advice regarding this craft....The folks down at my local Woodcraft store don't have a clue on what I need to turn a stummel.

Anyway, I'm rambling now. Thanks again my friend.

Dave
Go hang a salami I'm a lasagna hog.
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hawky454
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by hawky454 »

Kurt,

Thank you as well. Don't worry, I'm done! I come in peace.
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taharris
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by taharris »

Hawky454

Don't be discouraged about some of the responses you are getting on this forum. I am fairly new to it myself and I agree that the tone of the forum is not always friendly to new members. It is, however, full of VERY knowledgeable people with a lot of good information that they are willing to share. Hang with us.

I have been doing wood turning for several years now and I understand that there is a steep learning curve. There is a lot more to turning than just putting a hunk of wood between centers and pushing a tool into it.

You can create amazing pieces on a lathe if you understand some basics about securing the piece and especially tool control and approach angle. There is also opportunity to get injured if you don't understand these things.

I recommend you check out http://www.woodturnersresource.com/ and join the forum. You will find a wealth of good information and very helpful and supportive people.

Welcome to pipe making.
e Markle
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by e Markle »

hawky454 wrote:Tell me where in PIMO's Guide to pipe Crafting does it explain what the grub screw is for?
LOL
hawky454 wrote: Damn, this is like a boot camp pipe forum.
heh.

I didn't know ANYTHING about lathes, woodworking, tools, machining, etc. I barely knew what sandpaper was, and I'm more or less happy with my results thus far.

Sounds like you're using a wood lathe. I know a number of people use one, and I could be wrong here, but I think most of us (?) are using metal lathes. At least... most of us who spend more than a couple hours per week in the shop. If I were you, I'd save up and get a metal lathe. Maybe I'm crazy though.
Boekweg
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by Boekweg »

hawky454,


I wasnt trying to put you down or make you feel stupid and i appologize if i did. I just get overly concerned when it sounds like someone is using a piece of machinery and does not fully understand it. I had to watch a work mate die right next to me because he turned on the lathe with the chuck wrench still in it. It flew out and ripped half his face off and he bled to death before the paramedics could get there. Although the lathe your using is very small in comparison, you can still get hurt. Pipe makers rely on there hands and fingers for there income and passion. It only takes a split second to lose a digit!

Any way. sorry for upsetting you. And i would "never" want to do anything to discourage you from pipe making.

Regards,

Boekweg.
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hawky454
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by hawky454 »

E Markle,
You're right, I am trying to save up for a Taig Metal lathe. The lathe I have right now was a thoughtful gift from someone. It would be a crying shame not to put it to use.

Taharris,
Thank you very much for the link! I also plan on taking a class down at my local Woodcraft. I think I'll be getting that Easy Rougher this weekend (sounds like its just what I need.), tomorrow is payday!!!! Payday=tools!

Alright.....I'm getting some good info her fellas!

Thanks a lot!!!!!

Boekweg,
I'm not one to hold a grudge. Sorry about your mate.
Go hang a salami I'm a lasagna hog.
adryazad
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by adryazad »

Did you eventually find out what the grub screw?

Its basically the screw to tighten the chuck on to the insert. Please do let me know if you have figured this out, otherwise, i'd take a picture for you again..

Cheers, Adry
Last edited by adryazad on Fri Apr 08, 2011 10:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
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KurtHuhn
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Re: SuperNova2

Post by KurtHuhn »

Boekweg wrote:@ Kurt,

what is the difference in using a 5 speed bench top wood lathe, as opposed to say like a, Jet JHL-610 hobby lathe? or some other bench top type metal lathe? wont they both accomplish the same objective? :?:

The Jet JHL-610 is tiny, so you're limiting yourself in that respect. If you plan to use it for nothing more than stems, it will be fine, but you'll never have enough lathe to use it to drill and turn stummels. Given a choice between the myriad of teensy metal lathes and a 10x14 wood lathe, I'd go for the wood lathe all day long. IMO, it's going to be more suited to pipe work.

Now, given the choice of a 10x14 wood lathe, and a 12x36 metal lathe, I'd opt for the metal lathe assuming I had the cash, and considering the experience I already have doing this work. That also accounts for the non-pipe-related work I would be doing as well, which is probably unique to my needs. But the difference in price is in the heart attack range. A 10x14 wood lathe is a good entry point.

If you already have a decent wood lathe, and need something just to turn stem tenons, a Taig or Sherline lathe would be my suggestion. Both are excellent small machines. Unless, that is, you're planning on full bore production work - in that case, get the 9x20 metal lathe, or possibly a 12x36.

That said, tool choice is highly personal, and what works for one guy may not be applicable to your situation.
Kurt Huhn
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