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What brand of epoxie/type is good to use on the stems that bonds to the delrin better after you ruff it up?
since nothing realy bonds to delrin, so what is every one using?

Thanks.

Loctite plastic bonder epoxy. Mentions Delrin specifically, and in all my testing is an excellent epoxy for Delrin or acetal stems.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/7/e ... Bonder.htm

KurtHuhn wrote:Loctite plastic bonder epoxy. Mentions Delrin specifically, and in all my testing is an excellent epoxy for Delrin or acetal stems.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/13/7/e ... Bonder.htm

Interesting, thanks, Kurt. I've always used Brownell's Acraglas Gel, but I'm probably depending its great shear strength and the provision of lots of mechanical area with roughing up the surfaces rather than any particular bonding to Delrin. I wonder why the Loctite stuff is not recommended for potable water systems.

I'm not sure. I found this quite by accident, and coupled with a good mechanical bond in the Delrin tenon, it's near indestructible.

I used to depend on System 3's T88, but that seems to break down very quickly when near heat or water vapor. J-B Weld is excellent, but the fact that it takes 48 hours to fully cure is a serious buzzkill. This seems to be a happy medium.

JHowell wrote:
I wonder why the Loctite stuff is not recommended for potable water systems.

Church Lady Voice: Maybe because it's made by SATAN!?

Rad

Devcon make a product i believe is called Devweld or something like that, specifically designed for gluing Delrin and other slippery plastics. I am more like Jack I guess, I drill a tight fitting hole, score both surfaces really well and then hammer the tenon in, to be fair the friction fit after it is hammered in would be enough to hold it in most circumstances. I use a generic 5 min epoxy and can usually take the stem out of the lathe in about 10-15mins though I often wait longer.

RadDavis wrote:

JHowell wrote:
I wonder why the Loctite stuff is not recommended for potable water systems.

Church Lady Voice: Maybe because it's made by SATAN!?

Rad

I don't think that's it. I'm pretty sure Satan makes a lot of the things we eat and drink.

I do wonder if there's some toxicity issue even after curing, or if they're just covering their behinds. I always cut a slightly smaller angle on the end of the Delrin tenon than the drill bit point angle so there wouldn't be a glue line anyway, but I wouldn't think there would be a lot of exposed cured epoxy in house plumbing, either. If it's really not safe to ingest the parts per million that might result from a little stray epoxy leaching into the house drinking water, then the parts per million that might get picked up by the heated aerosol in a pipe airway might not be safe either. My first reaction reading the warning is that it's a nanny-lawyer thing and highly disregardable. But then, maybe not.

In one of his fishing books, John Gierach tells a story about a local poacher who chose to disregard the "NO ICE FISHING" signs posted all around a high Colorado mountain lake. It had been freezing cold for weeks, the ice had to be thick enough, why the hell NOT fish there? So he got out in the middle, bored his hole, and looked down into empty space. What he didn't know was that they sometimes would draw the water out of this lake during the winter, and sometimes the ice that formed before the water was drawn down would remain for weeks, perilously suspended above the water 8 or 10 feet below. He left his stuff there and crawled back to shore. If he had died it would have been his own fault, but the folks who made the signs would have gotten better compliance if they'd devoted a few words to explanation rather than making the sign a dividing point between those who blindly obey signs and those who, well, don't.

Now that I've gotten curious, I think I'll email Loctite.

JHowell wrote: Now that I've gotten curious, I think I'll email Loctite.

Please let me know what you find, Jack.

I'm just speculating here, but I would guess that it is because the product is made without following all of the food grade regulations and requirements. So, since it is not certified as food grade it cannot be marketed as being appropriate for potable water.

At my company we manufacture the adhesive that is used to glue labels on the OUTSIDE of some food containers. We have to jump through significant hoops just to be certified as indirect food grade.

Has anyone ever used CA glue on a pipe? CA is cyanoacrylate glue. The cyano part refers to cyanide, which can potentially be released if the CA glue catches on fire. I think it is fine for tenons and stems, but I wouldn't ever use it near the bowl.

Just my 2 cents.

"Dear Jack:

Thank you for e-mailing Henkel Corporation. We appreciate your interest in our products.

All of our products are considered toxic even after they are cured. They are not FDA approved."



So there you have it. I guess if it's not FDA approved it must be toxic.

JHowell wrote:


So there you have it. I guess if it's not FDA approved it must be toxic.

Well, duh.

Rad

RadDavis wrote:

JHowell wrote:


So there you have it. I guess if it's not FDA approved it must be toxic.

Well, duh.

Rad

Kurt, I don't use that exact epoxy, but have to say, the "No Fuss-No Muss" mixing is a plus for the double tube dispenser too.

JHowell wrote: So there you have it. I guess if it's not FDA approved it must be toxic.

...because the FDA has never approved something that has proven to be toxic...