Which Nova?

[Charl]

I'm looking at getting a Nova chuck for my lathe, but have no idea for which one to go. SuperNova2 or Nova g3 or one of the others? The internet didn't help much, but maybe one of you guys with a similar one can point me in the right direction?

[potholer]

The supernova 2 is an excellent chuck and bigger and more versatile than the G3
I would opt for one that has threaded inserts so that if you ever change lathes and the new one has a different spindle thread it is a simple matter of changing the insert rather than buying a complete new chuck.

regards
dave

[taharris]

I have a Supernova 2 and I agree that it is a great chuck.

However, for pipe making it is overkill.

The Nova Precision Midi Chuck on sale at Woodcraft for $99 would serve you just as well.
Plus, it comes with the 50mm jaw set that would allow you to turn larger pieces of Briar.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208032 ... -Sets.aspx

Todd

[smokindawg]

There are many makers chucks that will work well. Nova being one of them. My thought would be, whichever you decide on, make sure that they use a key instead of the two rods. I have both and it's very difficult to line up the block for drilling and tighten it too when you have two rods to hold. It will work, but just is a pain.

I actually bought a chuck like the nova for my Jet 9x20 and purchased it at Grizzley tools. It works great and the price wasn't bad either. Since making a set of jaws for holding briar blocks I get perfect drilling every time. Least so far.

[taharris]

it's very difficult to line up the block for drilling and tighten it too when you have two rods to hold

I've not had that issue. I just choose two opposing holes that are fairly close together and can manage the two rods in one hand with a squeezing motion while adjusting the Briar with my other hand.

In any event, I recommend that you not skimp on quality when purchasing a chuck. Nova has consistent high quality and, while I have not had issues with off brand chucks, a lot of folks on other forums have.

Todd

[KurtHuhn]

I actually prefer the chucks with two rods - that way I can really torque down on the block to ensure it doesn't move while it's out of balance and spinning at 1200 RPM.

Whatever chuck you do get, get the extended depth jaws - some call them "tower" jaws. It will give you a ton of freedom that the shorter #2 jaws can't give you.

[Charl]

Living in South Africa, we unfortunately don't have a very wide selection of fancy chucks. Normally 4 jaw chucks does not come as selfcentering, for example. I did get hold of one specialist shop that sell the Nova's, and I think they also just have the one type, the Supernova2. I'm going to have stummel jaws made to spec by a tool and die-maker friend of mine. And then get some type of jaws for doing stem work.
Thanks for all the help!

[potholer]

the supernova 2 is single handed in operation

as for over kill if one wishes to do other project such as bowls which by their nature can be bulky and at worst off balance then the bigger chuck is an advantage.

but definitely get the threaded insert variety


regards
dave

[taharris]

You can't go wrong with the Supernova 2.

[hawky454]

I am another one that's pro Supernova2. IMO Just as good as the Oneway Talon but a $100.00 cheaper.

[andrew]

I'm new to pipe making, so take this for what it is. I bought the cheapest grizzly 4 jaw independent chuck that I could find. From there I had a machinist buddy build me some really cool jaws. He takes pipes for payment:) They are 2" square (if I remember correctly) on the face, textured on one side, smooth on the back (for doing repairs on pipes), and they have a centering pin. The jaws would take minimal shop time due to their simplicity and the chuck was under $100 shipped. The independent jaws allow you to move the piece around a bit if you find a serious enough imperfection in the block. So far I love the jaws/chuck. The chuck is very accurate. The joint between the shank face and bit/stem face typically does not allow for any visible light to pass though (as long as I haven't bumped it or done something stupid). Anyway, if money is an issue (and it is with most of us) this could be a good cheap alternative. I could post pics of the jaws/chuck if this piques your interest. Good luck.

[adryazad]

I use the Supernova chuck, with the 75mm long nose jaws, unfortunately the jaws don't open up far enough to clamp anything thicker than a 53mm wide block. Other than that, the chuck is ace, I wonder what chuck jaws u guys use

[KurtHuhn]

I use a Oneway chuck with the #2 Tower jaws. Works great!

[smokindawg]

On my Delta Midi Wood Lathe I use a oneway and on the metal lathe I use a chuck from Grizzly Tools.

The jaws I use are some I made using 1"x2" aluminum with my Sherline Mini Mill.

They work great on either chuck or lathe, drill dead on and hold the block great, even when doing some shaping with hand tools.

[Boekweg]

I use a super nova 2 and it has worked great for me so far.

[Charl]

Thanks for all the help guys!

[wdteipen]

I bought one of the Nova chucks at Woodcraft for $99. It's a great chuck but doesn't open wide enough for some briar blocks. I use my Oneway Talon chuck with #2 tower jaws that Nate modified for me for turning briar and the Nova for stems and wood blanks for shank adornments and what not.

I also prefer the two bar chucks for the reason Kurt mentions. You can adjust and tighten with one bar if you lock the spindle on your lathe.

[smokindawg]

Although my keyed chuck on my Jet works great and holds the block plenty tight enough, I can see what Kurt and WD mean. You really can get one heck of a grab on a block using the two bars......... and once you get used to using them, I guess they aren't quite so big a pain in the rear. And I hadn't even thought of locking the spindle, although I don't think either of my lathes have a way to lock them.

[billiard]

Sorry for blabbering here, feel free to skip reading this!

I have a shopsmith, none of the accessories really, but the lathe is all there. I took a 2 hour class on how to use a lathe and I made some nice spindles in the class but I just cannot get it to work at home. I am just using the pimo tenon tool and then doing all my shaping with the 12" sanding disc.

I think I am going to take my next block of time I get to make a pipe and do nothing but try to figure this lathe stuff out. If I don't post again it's cuz I either blew myself up or went spinning around in my lathe or something but I am gonna try.

I said it, so I have committed to a real try at it.

[smokindawg]

Good luck to you billiard. I'm sure you'll get it figured out quickly enough. Then you'll wonder how you got along without using the lathe.

That being said, you'll probably still be using the pimo tenon cutter, unless you decide to do as I did and go to delrin as a tenon material.