I have a question for you all. Up until now I have learned about stem shapes (tapered, saddle, etc.) but I have never stope to figure out (even tho I had heard the names) what a military stem and a p-lip stem are. So.... What are they? What are there distinctives?
Incidently I had someone fill out a form on my pipe site and request a duplicate of one of my "Unavailable pipes."
UGH! I've never done anything but a flush mount (or an attempted one anyway ). I'd hate to learn on someone elses pipe. I'll have to get me a practicin'...
A p-lip is a Peterson thing. Look up some of their pipes and you will find a p-lip style. Basically the bottom looks like a traditional bit, but the top is a quarter sphere with the draught hole exiting near the top in a way that directs the smoke up and away from the tongue, I'm guessing to avoid tongue bite.
I have a follow-up question: Are there very many military stems that do not have some sort of extension? All the ones I've seen are either "capped" with silver (Petersons) or have a vulcanite extension before the stem.
I do a lot of millitary bits and some do not have a ferrule. For an example check out the Freehand here: www.stoabriars.com/alexandrian.htm. A true millitary stem should either have a silver shank cap, or a silver/brass ring in the shank for re-enforcement. After all, the idea is that you can essentially jam the stem into the mortise without ever worrying about the joint getting loose. You can see how this would be of benefit in the field, that is "millitary" battle field (hence the name). The only drawback to such a design, though it is somewhat negligable, is that the tenon cannot bottom out in the mortise. If it did, the stem would simply fall out. The mortise has to be just slightly deeper than the tenon is long so that you can get the sort of friction necessary to create a solid joint. BTW, if interested, it requires a tapered mortise bit. You can contact Ken Lamb if you would like one.
ToddJohnson wrote:Hey Brent,
The mortise has to be just slightly deeper than the tenon is long so that you can get the sort of friction necessary to create a solid joint. BTW, if interested, it requires a tapered mortise bit. You can contact Ken Lamb if you would like one.
Best,
Todd
Todd, what's the taper on the bit? Is it a reamer or a drill? McMaster has reamers from .5% per side to 5% per side.
I picked up a used reamer in a used tool store, and it works quite nicely with a guide hole about the same as the small end. Don't know the exact slope, but I'd guess maybe 2 degrees.
). I'd hate to learn on someone elses pipe. I'll have to get me a practicin'...
