pipemakersforum.com

I'm thinking about making a "real" army mount (as opposed to regular tenon and hidden stem face) pipe and I am faced with a problem... How do I drill a tapered mortise for the tapered stem? The stem is no problem, I guess I just have to turn a slight taper on it, but how do I make a matching mortise? I thought about turning it, but precise hole turning in such small scale is way beyond my turning skills (if it can be done at all).
Maybe the answer is quite simple and will make me think "right, should have thought of that...", but for now I am stuck at this point.
Thanks for your help!

P.S. Hmmm.... Before hitting submit I thought some more, and maybe I'm just dumb... But isn't a regular mortise enough if you have a taper on the stem? Will a standard, cilindrical mortise provide enough grip with a (precisely) tapered stem? In this case my entire question makes no sense

A regular mortise ALMOST is enough - you are looking for about 1 degree of taper, and you can literally achieve it with sandpaper if you have the stummel on the lathe. Cutting a tenon by hand, if you taper it by just a tiny tiny bit you wil make a locking taper that fits quite well. Just take your time.

Ken Lamb advertises that he is working on tooling for this purpose. Check his web site, reference a few lines below the description of his spoon bits.

After drilling the ariway hole i insert a 6mm drill and then this tool (I don't know it's name) untill i get to 1/3 of it's legnth...



My problem is that i don't know how to spin silver for the band.Is there anyone who knows where we can find a dealer or tools?

I've started this pipe of briar remains a week ago, I will finish the mouthpiece when i solve the silver problem:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us



It's a nosewarmer army mount.

With that much taper, if the stem so much as moves a mm, it will fall out.

In an army mount the stem gets better grip as you smoke beacause of moisture.
I smoked it yesterday, and there is no problem with the stem fitting.

That said, it's much larger than what is referred to as a "locking taper". Sas is right, you want a taper of right around 1 degree. Think about the Morse taper on your lathe. For the purposes of a pipe maker, a MT0 reamer is a better choice, allowing a precision and locking fit, without fear of the stem loosening if it's not currently being smoked.

There is actually a name for a stummel coming out of the lock - it's referred to as the "Peterson Drop" and it accounts for a lot of nicks and dings on those pipes. Good thing they are built like tanks!

Thanks guys, so cool getting this many good tips on this topic
I think I am not gonna use a silver mount (too much work that I'm not skilled at, and ordering one seems too simple), but I will maybe try a cumberland shank cap. OK, lots of new ideas, off to work (btw, my belt sander is finally finished, I'm hoping to get it working today, finally! )
Once I get to it I will try to post the effects.

First time posting here in about a year, but you want a 2.5-3.0 degree taper, and you can use drill rod to make a military drill bit. Drill to the diameter of the smallest diameter, an then go with the tapered drill rod. It should be made much like a spoon bit. Then just cut the stem to the same taper.

TJ

In this discussion of degrees of taper, are we talking about the measurement as an included angle or so many degrees per side?
Chas.

oklahoma red wrote:In this discussion of degrees of taper, are we talking about the measurement as an included angle or so many degrees per side?
Chas.

Depends on how you measure it.

See here for Morse:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper#Dimensions

Measurements of taper are typically expressed as included angle measured from a plane parallel to the centerline.

KurtHuhn wrote:

oklahoma red wrote:In this discussion of degrees of taper, are we talking about the measurement as an included angle or so many degrees per side?
Chas.

Depends on how you measure it.

See here for Morse:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper#Dimensions

Measurements of taper are typically expressed as included angle measured from a plane parallel to the centerline.

As you are well aware, it makes a big difference. Using recommendations given in this thread, it would be easy to apply double the advised taper if it was not understood that we're talking about the included (or total angle if you will).
Chas.

oklahoma red wrote:

KurtHuhn wrote:

oklahoma red wrote:In this discussion of degrees of taper, are we talking about the measurement as an included angle or so many degrees per side?
Chas.

Depends on how you measure it.

See here for Morse:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper#Dimensions

Measurements of taper are typically expressed as included angle measured from a plane parallel to the centerline.

As you are well aware, it makes a big difference. Using recommendations given in this thread, it would be easy to apply double the advised taper if it was not understood that we're talking about the included (or total angle if you will).
Chas.

You want a three degree taper on both sides. For the silver/brass insert, you need about a 3" piece of the tube you're actually using to cut the little insert ring. Turn that tube into a hole saw using your dremel, a hacksaw blade, whatever. Then cut a plug out of ebonite where one end is a 3 degree tapered mortise, and the rest of the plug (which should also be 2"-3") is cut to the ID of the hole saw. Chuck the hole saw in the lathe and insert the plug into the shank. Turn your lathe on at a low speed and slide the plug into the spinning hole saw. It will cut a "sleeve" in the face of the shank. Then cut about a 1/8" long "ring" from the same stock and epoxy it into the sleeve.

TJ