Bandsaw blades

[caskwith]

Just curious as to what blades you guys use in your bandsaws? On my old saw I used 1/4 or 3/8" 6tpi skip for both cutting morta logs and trimming briar blocks. On my new saw however (much bigger and more powerful) I am finding the 6tpi blades are great for cutting morta logs, I can power through them like butter but when trimming small blocks of briar it is a little scary as the blades tends to grab the block as I start the cut. On the old saw any grabbing wasn't a problem as the motor was low power and would just slow a little as the cut started, this new saw however is much more powerful and much stronger than me, I have had two blocks nearly ripped from my hands now and another was thrown about a bit, need some clean underwear after that incident!

I have ordered myself some 10tpi blades in the hope the finer teeth will be less likely to grab, i will still stick to the 6tpi for roughing morta however, although its a bit of hassle changing blades I tend to cut larger ammounts in one go so it's not such a big deal.

[taharris]

I use a 1/2" 3 tpi hook tooth blade.

But I don't think the problem is your blade.

You MUST make sure your work piece is fully supported when you make a cut. That means that square blocks must be flat on the table when making cuts. It is very dangerous to tilt the block and cut a corner off because a nasty catch can pull your fingers into the blade.

The same is true if you are cutting round objects. You need to make a "V" shaped cradle for the work piece to set in while cutting or the same thing can happen.

Todd

[caskwith]

I use a 1/2" 3 tpi hook tooth blade.

But I don't think the problem is your blade.

You MUST make sure your work piece is fully supported when you make a cut. That means that square blocks must be flat on the table when making cuts. It is very dangerous to tilt the block and cut a corner off because a nasty catch can pull your fingers into the blade.

The same is true if you are cutting round objects. You need to make a "V" shaped cradle for the work piece to set in while cutting or the same thing can happen.

Todd

Yeah I make sure the block is flat to the table and never cut "mid air". Because the logs of morta are so uneven I built a special sled to support both sides of the blade and to push it through the saw. I think a lot of my problem is that often the top of the block is closer to the blade than the bottom and this grabs and then flips it forward, also because you are introducing a lot of material into the blade right away rather than gradually increasing the ammount of stock. Anyway we shall see if the blade makes a difference, they weren't too expensive so it will be a worthwhile experiement I think.

[RadDavis]

I use a 10 tpi blade. I can't remember the width. I think it's 3/16.

It doesn't grab at all, unless you really screw up.

Rad

[caskwith]

I use a 10 tpi blade. I can't remember the width. I think it's 3/16.

It doesn't grab at all, unless you really screw up.

Rad

Ah well thats re-assuring. I was a little worried that the teeth may clog up a bit so knowing you get on ok with a 10tpi helps.

[RadDavis]

I use a 10 tpi blade. I can't remember the width. I think it's 3/16.

It doesn't grab at all, unless you really screw up.

Rad

Ah well thats re-assuring. I was a little worried that the teeth may clog up a bit so knowing you get on ok with a 10tpi helps.

10 tpi works fine. I tried 16 tpi once when they were out of 10 tpi at the hardware store. That doesn't cut briar worth a damn.

Rad

[andrew]

I know exactly what you are talking about with the front edge catching. Nothing quite like the sound of a block slapping down on the bandsaw table. I've been thinking about using a high quality thin kerf blade. I haven't yet (waiting for the blade I have to dull). My reasoning is that a wider kerf blade is removing less material, so there is less wood for it to bite down on in that sickening instant. I guess this might be similar to using a thin vs. full kerf blade on a table saw. Anyway, that's my idea. Increasing the TPI won't hurt either.

[staffwalker]

Don't know about you guys but of all the things I fool around with, including women, a bandsaw most scares the hell out of me. I am never comfortable using one. I watch those videos of others around the world who seem to be able to carve a completed pipe out of a block at incredible speed using a bandsaw. How in the hell are they able to use one so fast and never have accidents. I always count their fingers every time I see a video, all seem to have ten left. Over the years I have had some very close 'near' accidents. I've tried all kinds of blades, all kinds of teeth, all kinds of jigs to make things move smoothly and still, there is the occasional near accident caused by grabbing of the piece by the blade. I'm currently using a 3tpi which is the best I've ever tried but over the past six months I've had three grabs. If someone has the ultimate secret I sure would appreciate them posting here while I still have all ten fingers left. bob gilbert

[RadDavis]

Bob, the only reason a piece should grab is if it's not sitting flat on the table, or you've got a piece with a little overhang of some sort. The blade will try to pull the block to the table, and if it's not already there, it suddenly will be.

I use a 3/8 10 tpi blade that scrolls nicely around a shape and Hardly ever grabs. The only time it does is when I'm cutting the sides off the shank and have to lift the shank end as I saw.

Every time I use the band saw, I think of nothing else but my fingers going into that blade somehow.

Rad

[Nate]

Bob, the only reason a piece should grab is if it's not sitting flat on the table, or you've got a piece with a little overhang of some sort. The blade will try to pull the block to the table, and if it's not already there, it suddenly will be.

I use a 3/8 10 tpi blade that scrolls nicely around a shape and Hardly ever grabs. The only time it does is when I'm cutting the sides off the shank and have to lift the shank end as I saw.

Every time I use the band saw, I think of nothing else but my fingers going into that blade somehow.

Rad

Now was it 3/16 or 3/8? I have both and the 3/8 doesn't scroll so well. The 3/16 is awesome, oh and it's 4tpi. But the 3/8 is for straight cuts on my end.

[RadDavis]

My bad. It's 3/16

Rad

[Nate]

My bad. It's 3/16

Rad

Ok, cool. That is fast becoming my favorite blade.

[caskwith]

Well I had some fun yesterday. I was cutting up the last of my morta logs for drying and decided i would use up this 1/4"6tpi blade (usually I use a 3/8" 6tpi for roughing morta) with 2 logs left to go the bloody blade snapped! Since the new 10tpi blades will be useless for deep cuts in morta logs this meant I had to take out the broken blade, fit another just for about half a dozen cuts! Grrr! Anyway I got it all changed pretty quick actually for an old 3/8" I had kncoking around that is too dull for good cuts in briar but it did fine chopping up the morta and cutting down some wood scraps for a friends woodburner as well. Today I will change out for my brand new 10tpi blades and I look forward to trying it out soon.

[Growley]

I'm not sure what blade I'm currently using, but I'll say this, my band saw has a red laser line pointer to show you where the blade is going to go...as if it actually works. It goes wherever it wants to go, but I still turn that it in on from time to time to remind me that that bright red line it makes for me could be a nice bright red line in my hand if I'm not careful.

[taharris]

These blades are a bit pricy, but they are great blades and I have never had one snap on me.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2004810 ... lades.aspx

Todd

[RadDavis]

These blades are a bit pricy, but they are great blades and I have never had one snap on me.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2004810 ... lades.aspx

Todd

I wouldn't dare use those, even though I don't live in California: "WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm."



Rad

[taharris]

I can only think of one way those blade could cause reproductive harm.

And if you cut that off you are doing something very very wrong!

Todd

[SimeonTurner]

I can only think of one way those blade could cause reproductive harm.

And if you cut that off you are doing something very very wrong!

Todd

You use your fingers to reproduce?

[Alden]

I can only think of one way those blade could cause reproductive harm.

And if you cut that off you are doing something very very wrong!

Todd

You use your fingers to reproduce?

When two hands aren't enough, I just throw my junk up on the piece I'm working. Its quicker than clamping the piece, and all that weight holds it down pretty well.
I'm really careful though, with saws chisels and such.
I wouldn't want to grab the side of that thing with a sharp saw, no telling how many teeth it'd break off if it didnt just outright bust the blade in two.

[staffwalker]

I can only think of one way those blade could cause reproductive harm.

And if you cut that off you are doing something very very wrong!

Todd

You use your fingers to reproduce?

When two hands aren't enough, I just throw my junk up on the piece I'm working. Its quicker than clamping the piece, and all that weight holds it down pretty well.
I'm really careful though, with saws chisels and such.


I wouldn't want to grab the side of that thing with a sharp saw, no telling how many teeth it'd break off if it didnt just outright bust the blade in two.

It's easy to see that last poster is from Texas. Texicans have the meanest dog, fastest horse, prettiest woman, biggest dick and drink lite beer. Somehow, I've always found that to be a little hilarious. bob gilbert