pipemakersforum.com

I made this for another forum member to demonstrate how I modify the slot on preform stems to make them smoke better.



Taken with my wife's newfangled point and shoot digital camera. Not a bad little unit!

Nicely done Kurt.

Thank you.

Todd

Confoundit all, Kurt! Where was that video yesterday when I was finishing up my first pipe of the year!

Great video. I had no clue the funnel needed to start that far back in the stem. I always work on the slot of my pre-molded stems, but not to this extent.

Thanks for another great resource!

Technically speaking, it doesn't have to start that far back, but that's just the way I've always done it. It would be perfectly acceptable to start it about an inch in instead of the inch and a half that I normally do. Really, as long as you get good airflow, no whistles, and no gurgles, it's all good.

Thank you! Lots of help! Great info!

Thanks again Kurt for another great video. For the brand new guy who's about to cut into his first piece of briar, I noticed that you talked about the continual airflow (without angles and obstructions) through the stem makes for no gurgles, etc. As I have understood so far from this forum - my first few attempts at a pipe should concentrate on "a good smoking pipe" then worry about how ugly they are... So, I guess my question is - engineering wise - assuming I have correctly seated a delrin tenon into my stem, and followed the airflow patterns in the stem as shown above - how much of a gap should there be between the mortise and tenon? Should they be flush mounted with a countersunk tenon or should there be a "moisture trap" as there seem to be on some of my (purchased) pipes and some famous factory diagrams? It seems that several of my (purchased) pipes are all over the place on this regard.

New Guy Disclaimer: After reading a lot of posts on drilling, engineering, etc... I've re-drilled holes in the shank, tenon and stem to 5/32 (tapering the hole in the bit with a lot of curled up sand paper) on one of my factory cheapies straight Dublins, and... it now smokes better than my most expensive named brand (ugh). Evidently, some of you might know what you're talking about

JK

I'm still waiting for the first comment about sexy voice and lack of chaps. It is not a proper thread until we get there.

(Very nice video, by the way.)

jdkearns wrote:So, I guess my question is - engineering wise - assuming I have correctly seated a delrin tenon into my stem, and followed the airflow patterns in the stem as shown above - how much of a gap should there be between the mortise and tenon? Should they be flush mounted with a countersunk tenon or should there be a "moisture trap" as there seem to be on some of my (purchased) pipes and some famous factory diagrams? It seems that several of my (purchased) pipes are all over the place on this regard.

You can have a small gap there with no ill effect. For years I used a 5/16" forstner bit to make a flat bottom, then went to great pains to ensure zero gap - but all that bought me was a lot of fiddly-time. You can drill the mortis with a regular drill bit, then get the tenon length "very close", then countersink the end of the tenon to smooth the air flow. This smokes just as well, if not better, than trying to make it perfect.

Evidently, some of you might know what you're talking about

Imagine that!

By the way, I'm not so sure I'm up to appearing in an Internet video wearing chaps. I could actually become some sort of meme dealing with my hairy behind and the fact that all chaps are assless - otherwise they would be pants. Or worse... two chaps, one Kurt....

Oh, I think I just grossed myself out. Now I need a drink...

jdkearns wrote:Thanks again Kurt for another great video...

Evidently, some of you might know what you're talking about

JK

Oh man, I should have clarified I meant about pipe-crafting, not assless pants videos you "chaps" are talking about.

Thanks for great video!
That drill bit looks really flexible. All my thin drill bits are really stiff and brittle, do you use any special kind?
/Jon

I forget where I got that bit - probably McMaster-Carr. It might appear flexible in the video, but it really isn't. It's an optical illusion created by me moving my hands around. The bit is just as hard and stiff as any other. You just have to be careful to let the bit do the work, and not manhandle it.

You sir have a manly voice.

So I have been told.