pipemakersforum.com

I just received some material for shank extensions in the mail today, some paduak and some zebrawood.

When I opened the box I was surprised to see that the paduak was covered in a waxy substance. Is that there to prevent oxidation? Does paduak oxidize? The wood isn't stabilized, is it? This is such a beautifully colored wood!

On the zebrawood, do you guys use the end grain facing out for extensions? It seems like using the end grain would give the extension more stripes?

Finally, are there any tips I need to know in order to work with each? Are they toxic, or is it okay for the draft hole to run through them?

Any help would be appreciated.

The wax is a seal to make the wood dry slower and more evenly.

The waxy substance is, indeed, wax. The wood was likely waxed immediately after it was cut to slow down the drying process and reduce cracking.
So, the wood may not be completely dry and may move on you a little bit as it does dry. Since shank extensions are so small and they see some
heat during the turning process it may dry on the lathe and you may not experience any issues. I have not.

Padauk turns well, but tends to be open grained. Also note that it will eventually turn brown. A coating of thin CA glue may give it some protection, but I'm not sure.

The Zebra Wood will turn fine, but you may get some splintering at the white/black intersections. Sharp tools and a light cut will minimize this problem and a coating of thin CA glue will
help stabilize the wood and give you a better cut. Apply this as many times as you need to during your turning because it will only soak in a short way.

Hope this helps.

Todd

I would add that it's better to not use exotic woods for any part of the draft hole. It's easy enough to turn a tenon on the shank or put the wood on the stem tenon.

Thanks for the tips guys.

It is nearly impossible for me to turn a tenon on the shank sans lathe. I was considering putting a sleeve of delrin through the shank extension material into the shank. Good idea?

On the zebrawood, do you guys use the end grain facing out for extensions? It seems like using the end grain would give the extension more stripes?

Finally, are there any tips I need to know in order to work with each? Are they toxic, or is it okay for the draft hole to run through them?

Any help would be appreciated.[/quote]


I've seen whole pipes made from zebrawood in head shops, so its not toxic to use for a pipe material but you should avoid breathing in the saw dust.. exotic saw dust causes allergy issues for some people, and its going to smell like manure when you're cutting. The end grain polishes up really nice.

I'd avoid using the delrin as you suggest, and find another solution. I've had a bitch of a time getting anything (wood especially) to reliably adhere to delrin, and I wouldn't want to use it in the way you suggest. Using it on a stem is one thing, but using it to attach accent pieces, I'd worry about the longevity of the glue bond, especially to wood.

I could turn you some custom size dowels from hardwood to use instead of the delrin, as I think it would lend to a stronger bond all around. It would be sort of like using a loose tenon, which should hold up exceedingly well. And since most people simply turn a tenon on the shank to add the accent pieces to, it will basically be the same thing, just using an extra piece of wood.

You tell me what you want for sizes, and from what wood species, and I'll make you some dowels. I'll even center drill them if you like, again, whatever size you like. I have a ton of Brazilian Cherry, and it's some tough stuff! It's got a nice color too, nothing that will contrast too much so as to be an eyesore.

Or, if you want, send me the accent wood, I'll cut a tenon on it and center drill it for you. This way you could just drill the shank and glue it on that way.

I'd rather take the time and turn you some pieces than have you do anything questionable. And I know what it's like to not have a lathe and need one.

As for it turning brown, I have pens that are over a year old made from Padauk, as well as bottle stoppers and other pieces, and it has yet to turn brown. The CA seems to do a good job maintaining the color.

To use delrin--for anything really--you have to cut grooves both in the delrin and in the interior of the mortise to which it will be permanently fixed. A sharpened screwdriver braced against one of the cutting bits in your tool post will work for the former, and a 16TPI jigsaw blade will accomplish the latter. Glue is there only to help "secure" the mechanical joint you've already created. It is not sufficient on its own. If you drill a perfect mortise but don't create the grooves, then you've got what's called a dry joint--a joint so tight that all the glue is forced out and no longer there to do its job.

TJ

I echo what Tinkle above me said, you'll be fine if you cut grooves. Also, for some of the denser woods such as African Blackwood/ Cocobolo(they don't like being glued just as an fyi) a slow drying epoxy works excellently(along with the grooves mentioned by Tinkle). This is the stuff I use: http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/G-2 ... QgodAxkAEQ

Also a note, if you're gluing really multiple accent rings together, a helpful tip to ensure a solid glue bond, it to scour the faces of both by making small cuts w/ an exacto knife. These tiny channels should be enough for the slow cure epoxy to works its way in and do it's magic.

Cheers!

Me, and a few folks i have met, have had minor allergic reactions to paduak while turning/sanding. turns lovely though, we were using it for candle holders. very pretty wood.