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Went out to Woodcraft and bought their 1/2 lb bar of carnauba wax and am now trying to finish my first pipe and I can't get any wax on the wheel it's so hard. So I stuck it in the microwave figuring I could soften it up but even after a minute, it's still hard as a rock. I did call Woodcraft but the polishing expert won't be in until this afternoon so I'm hoping one of you might unlock the mystery of the wax that will not melt. Any help appreciated, thx.

If your buffing wheel is spinning, the wax is getting on there. You should be able to smell it...it has a very sweet aroma. You don't need very much.

I did finally get it to soften/melt by leaving it in the oven for a bit but by the time I got it on the wheel it was already hardening so I'm not sure I ever actually got any on the pipe. I expected it to show some sign like the tripoli and white diamond but the bar showed no indication it was giving up any wax.

I'll take some pics and post them in the Gallery and maybe someone can tell if I did anything right. I did realize that I need bigger wheels as I couldn't get down into the elbow without scratching the briar with the arbor. Thanks for the consult.

Update: I did finally reach Fred, the resident expert at Woodcraft and he tells me that there's no way I can get enough rpm's out of my hand drill to heat the wax to the point of giving up any material. So I guess I'm sol 'cause I sure don't have a lathe.

So I guess my next question is: is there any alternative I might use?

Carnuba wax is a lot like fertilizer. Less is better.

If you get too much on your buffing wheel you will regret it.

Load you wheel up lightly by running the hard wax in the wheel for no more than a couple of seconds and then apply several coats to your pipe.

Todd

Thanks Todd. I did just update my previous post . . . seems I'm using the wrong equipment . . . I could have sworn others were doing this with just a hand drill. Kinda wish the $22 dollar bar of wax had come with some instructions.

The mistake you're making is in expecting to be able to *see* the wax on the buffing wheel. You shouldn't. The wax will be, for all intents, invisible while on the wheel.

Do not melt it or try to soften it to get it on the wheel - if you do, all you're going to accomplish is scratching the sanded and polished pipe with hard bits of carnuba.

Again, the carnuba is hard and should stay that way. Do not attempt to soften it.

To apply to the wheel, run up your drill to maximum and press the bar of carnuba into the spinning buff. Only do that for a couple seconds. You will not see wax on the wheel, and the bar will appear untouched. You may, however, detect a sweet smell. Now your buffing wheel is charged and ready to apply carnuba to the pipe.

I personally like to buff with carnuba at around 850-900 RPM. I suspect your drill will spin that fast, that I couldn't say for sure. Slower speed, however, just means it will take longer to apply the wax to the pipe, and you may have to use more pressure on the buff.

Thanks Kurt; that's encouraging. I thought I understood that you wanted to apply it at a low rpm. I guess I did end up getting some wax on it although I really don't see a difference. I'm beginning to think I should be wearing a warning label.

I apply my carnauba with a hand drill clamped to some random surface (yes, I am the shopless pipemaker). While a hand drill doesn't deliver a wonderful polish, it's a hell of a lot better than none.

And yes, you won't be able to see the wax transferring onto the wheel.

One thing Kurt missed is the size of your wheel. 900rpm with a 4" wheel is a LOT different than 900rpm with an 8" wheel. (no offense meant to you Kurt)

A 4" wheel has a 12-1/2" circumference, a 6" has an 18-3/4", and a 8" has 25-1/8". So for every revolution, there is more than double the surface area passing by when using an 8" wheel as compared to a 4". So basically, the 4" wheel has half the surface speed, which is very important when buffing, grinding, etc.

I would think a 4" buff run at 1200rpm (which is common for a 3/8" drill) should work, as you would be just shy of the surface speed of a 6" wheel at 900rpm.

If you're still having trouble, or if you just want to ease your mind, buy a bigger buff, they're not that expensive.

Good luck.

Kenny wrote:One thing Kurt missed is the size of your wheel. 900rpm with a 4" wheel is a LOT different than 900rpm with an 8" wheel. (no offense meant to you Kurt)

A 4" wheel has a 12-1/2" circumference, a 6" has an 18-3/4", and a 8" has 25-1/8". So for every revolution, there is more than double the surface area passing by when using an 8" wheel as compared to a 4". So basically, the 4" wheel has half the surface speed, which is very important when buffing, grinding, etc.

I would think a 4" buff run at 1200rpm (which is common for a 3/8" drill) should work, as you would be just shy of the surface speed of a 6" wheel at 900rpm.

If you're still having trouble, or if you just want to ease your mind, buy a bigger buff, they're not that expensive.

Good luck.

Or if you have a lathe, buy a buffing system. I bought the inexpensive Beall system knock off from Penn State Industries and I think it works fantastically.

Though I didn't buy a metal lathe, my wood lathe has revolutionized my work, it is so versatile, and fun to learn. I do need to take a turning class or twelve, however! I also have to jump into the sharpening arena as well. So many things to learn, so little time to learn them.

My drill presses are pretty much lonely folks now, though I still use them for the odd tenon or so.

Thanks, guys. My biggest misunderstanding was my assumption that I should actually see the carnauba removed from the bar or applied to the buffer. I'm still a little skeptical but the pipes are getting shiny.

Nope, no lathe and I further complicated it by buying the "variety pack" so I have three different size buffers. Seems that Tool Acquisition Disorder can complement PAD quite effectively.

Hudson wrote:Thanks, guys. My biggest misunderstanding was my assumption that I should actually see the carnauba removed from the bar or applied to the buffer. I'm still a little skeptical but the pipes are getting shiny.

Nope, no lathe and I further complicated it by buying the "variety pack" so I have three different size buffers. Seems that Tool Acquisition Disorder can complement PAD quite effectively.

LOL, if I had all the money I have wasted on tools, etc for pipe making I no longer need, I could buy a Jet metal lathe!

Also if you happen to have a cordless drill you will often get a higher rpm then a corded one. I have a Ridgid 18v that spins at 1500rpm and a dewalt xrp that spins at 2100rpm. With a fresh charge both drills work much Better for buffing then the conventional corded drill.

Hudson wrote: Kinda wish the $22 dollar bar of wax had come with some instructions.

I know a guy who sells 1/2 pound bars of wax for 8.50, or 11.00 with USA shipping

Everything Kurt said was spot on.

A 1/2 pound bar is about 5 lifetimes of wax and should yeild enough for 5,000+ pipes, no joke, maybe toward 10,000 or much more

Vermont Freehand wrote:

Hudson wrote: Kinda wish the $22 dollar bar of wax had come with some instructions.

I know a guy who sells 1/2 pound bars of wax for 8.50, or 11.00 with USA shipping

Everything Kurt said was spot on.

A 1/2 pound bar is about 5 lifetimes of wax and should yeild enough for 5,000+ pipes, no joke, maybe toward 10,000 or much more

Not wrong there steve, I could only buy flakes here in the UK so I cast my own pucks with a cheap bun tin. Still using the first puck 5 years later, I reckon 2 pucks will last me my lifetime especially since half my pipes are blasted. I'm hanging onto the other pucks in case any UK pipes makers have trouble buying it in the future, I'll make my fortune!

caskwith wrote: I'm hanging onto the other pucks in case any UK pipes makers have trouble buying it in the future, I'll make my fortune!

That time might come sooner than you imagine