Dedicated sander
Dedicated sander
My first purchase is going to be a dedicated sander, as my 30 year old belt sander is absolutely brutal on my ears and fingers. So my question is this: Should I go with something like a small bench mount disk/belt combo sander, or go with a bench grinder and buy an arbor and accessories?
-
KurtHuhn
- Site Admin
- Posts: 5326
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: United States/Rhode Island
Re: Dedicated sander
I'd just pick up a motor, arbor, and accessories. It's simple, but works exceedingly well.
Re: Dedicated sander
The typical 1x30 belt with 5" disc machine from Canadian Tire type places works but it's not ideal. The only real advantage of that type of machine is that it is direct-ported for hooking up to a shop vac if you don't have a large-scale dust collector. I suppose they are handy for stems too.
Consider dust-collection a priority the second you fire any power sander up for making pipes. If you've got some other kind of dust collector and can aim it at a belt/pulley set up, then that's definitely going to be better.
Consider dust-collection a priority the second you fire any power sander up for making pipes. If you've got some other kind of dust collector and can aim it at a belt/pulley set up, then that's definitely going to be better.
ALL YOUR PIPE ARE BELONG TO US!
Re: Dedicated sander
Definitely get the motor/arbor setup. Many more options later.
+1 for dust collection too. You'll entomb yourself in dust, the second-most prolific thing that pipe makers produce.
+1 for dust collection too. You'll entomb yourself in dust, the second-most prolific thing that pipe makers produce.
Andrew
www.andrewstaplespipes.com
www.andrewstaplespipes.com
Re: Dedicated sander
Would a motor from a bench grinder work, or should I go totally Frankenstein?
Re: Dedicated sander
A bench grinder, unless it is adjustable speed, will be way too fast IMHO. I'd prefer 1725RPM or even less, maybe 1200rpm. Also, a bench grinder, while it may work, won't be ideal. I've found them to be lacking low-end torque in many cases, especially the 3450RPM versions.
I have 2 spare headstocks for my lathe, which are both variable speed, and I normally sand at about 1200rpm, as it creates less heat and my paper lasts longer. (excess heat breaks down the grit adhesive and then they just shed grit, or it will clog up with resin, etc., first)
What I would do, if I was starting from scratch, is get a 1/3hp to 1/2hp 1725RPM TEFC motor (totally enclosed, fan cooled), as these last longer in dusty, dirty environments, and then run a shaft in a set of pillow blocks off it via a V-belt drive. Something like what is pictured in this link- http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/sanding.htm
Basically, it would be a shaft with 2 bearing blocks supporting it, giving you space in the center to mount accessories, as well as on each end. And if the shaft of the motor is long enough, you may still be able to run an accessory outboard of the pulley, such as a sanding disc, drill chuck, etc.
If you can find one, a motor with the shaft extending from both ends is ideal, as you can use one to drive the belt, and the other for a sanding disc, drill chuck, whatever. Or, you could run a second belt off the other end and run a second shaft full of accessories, like a complete buffing set-up.
The best motor set-up, though not cheap, would be a 230V 3-phase motor run off a 120v to 230v 3-phase VFD. This would give you full speed control while maintaining maximum torque. Or, you could run a DC motor with speed controller, which would work in a similar fashion. (Nate King has an excellent set-up using a DC motor)
Otherwise, a simple 1725RPM 120v 1/2hp motor will be perfectly fine.
Now, once you have the motor set up to run the shaft, you can set up the shaft to suit your needs. You could add a sanding drum in the center, a sanding disc on one end, and a Beall type adapter to run buffing wheel on the other end.
One major advantage to running a shaft in pillow blocks like this, is it takes all the axial loading of sanding, buffing and other operations, rather than beating on the motor like you would with a direct-drive set-up. And since the bearings in most pillow blocks are cheap and easy to replace, this makes for a more economical set-up in the long run.
It also gives you a lot more shaft to mount accessories on than you will have on just a motor, ie: 12" to 18"+ vs just a few inches of motor shaft.
I have 2 spare headstocks for my lathe, which are both variable speed, and I normally sand at about 1200rpm, as it creates less heat and my paper lasts longer. (excess heat breaks down the grit adhesive and then they just shed grit, or it will clog up with resin, etc., first)
What I would do, if I was starting from scratch, is get a 1/3hp to 1/2hp 1725RPM TEFC motor (totally enclosed, fan cooled), as these last longer in dusty, dirty environments, and then run a shaft in a set of pillow blocks off it via a V-belt drive. Something like what is pictured in this link- http://www.twistedknotwoodshop.com/sanding.htm
Basically, it would be a shaft with 2 bearing blocks supporting it, giving you space in the center to mount accessories, as well as on each end. And if the shaft of the motor is long enough, you may still be able to run an accessory outboard of the pulley, such as a sanding disc, drill chuck, etc.
If you can find one, a motor with the shaft extending from both ends is ideal, as you can use one to drive the belt, and the other for a sanding disc, drill chuck, whatever. Or, you could run a second belt off the other end and run a second shaft full of accessories, like a complete buffing set-up.
The best motor set-up, though not cheap, would be a 230V 3-phase motor run off a 120v to 230v 3-phase VFD. This would give you full speed control while maintaining maximum torque. Or, you could run a DC motor with speed controller, which would work in a similar fashion. (Nate King has an excellent set-up using a DC motor)
Otherwise, a simple 1725RPM 120v 1/2hp motor will be perfectly fine.
Now, once you have the motor set up to run the shaft, you can set up the shaft to suit your needs. You could add a sanding drum in the center, a sanding disc on one end, and a Beall type adapter to run buffing wheel on the other end.
One major advantage to running a shaft in pillow blocks like this, is it takes all the axial loading of sanding, buffing and other operations, rather than beating on the motor like you would with a direct-drive set-up. And since the bearings in most pillow blocks are cheap and easy to replace, this makes for a more economical set-up in the long run.
It also gives you a lot more shaft to mount accessories on than you will have on just a motor, ie: 12" to 18"+ vs just a few inches of motor shaft.
Re: Dedicated sander
I thought it went without sayingSasquatch wrote:The first being bullshit.
Andrew
www.andrewstaplespipes.com
www.andrewstaplespipes.com
Re: Dedicated sander
Also the third strangely enough.Sasquatch wrote:The first being bullshit.
Chris
“The value of tobacco is best understood when it is the last you possess and there is no chance of getting more.”
Re: Dedicated sander
My first couple of pipes were sanded with using a benchgrinder. I agree, it is not perfect, but for the money, it is a good start off point. On top of all, you will still be using it after 30 years of making pipes and having a fully equipped shop. Except for sharpening of cutters and the likes, I also use it for rough shaping with a 24 grit disc.