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Hand cut stems are getting a lot easier but I am still having problems trying to form a 'shoulder' to fit in the countersunk area of the shank. I thought that I could get away with creating that shape on my cutting tool but I like the radius that I have now. Any tips?

Thanks in advance,

Mark

If it truly won't fit you either have to reduce the shoulder or increase the chamfer. Your tenon could be too long too. If that doesn't get a response...

If it doesn't get a response, we're probably not paying attention.

--Kurt

andrew wrote:If it truly won't fit you either have to reduce the shoulder or increase the chamfer. Your tenon could be too long too. If that doesn't get a response...

Thank's Dr. Ruth!

I may have phrased my question wrong. It's not that I am trying to get the stem shoulder to 'fit' into the countersunk area on the end of the shank, my question is "how do I create the stem shoulder in the first place?" I've seen stems without a shoulder and some with. It's always been recommended to me in books and what not, but I just don't know how to create that feature.

Thanks

Mark

Would it be possible to post a photo of a stem shoulder for someone who doesn't quite get the terminology

Regards Jon

You are talking about the little beveled area right between the tenon and the shoulder/faced end of the stem, yeah?

You could use a tool with a tiny bevel cut on that end, you could use a square tool and use the x and y wheels on the carriage at the same time and create a 45 degree cut. Or you could use a skew chisel or something like that and do it by hand.

That shoulder is created by the nose radius on your cutting tool.

http://www.mfg.mtu.edu/cyberman/machini ... urn_cutter

I grind mine like this, more or less.