What am I doing wrong?????

[RadDavis]

Hmm, I have a tool shaped like this, though not a Richard Sorby. I've been using gouges, may give this a try.

I think you may be confused. Richard is Robert's illegitimate half brother, and he doesn't make wood turning tools. He mostly sits around the house and drinks whiskey. Sad really, but he hasn't been the same since the Apple Pie Hubbub.

Rad

[JHowell]

Scrapers are for wimps.

Real men use a gouge!



Todd

From the use of the word "husband" I get the idea that Scottie22 is a lady, and so free to use the most effective tool for the job without fear of failing your gender test. If she *isn't* a lady, hey, that's cool, live and let live.

[oklahoma red]

And as a bonus the class is taught by Anthony Harris over at Acme pipes.....two birds, one stone type deal.

They make a easy detailer (diamond cutter, kinda like a cutoff tool) and easy finisher (round cutter). Those are the next two things I'm going to buy. I really like the idea of just buying replacement heads instead of sharpening them.

I have several of the Easywood tools and my favorite is the diamond shaped detailer. I use it to get into tight spots like several of the guys have mentioned using parting tools.
The Easywood tools are very sensitive to being kept dead level. Raise the end of the handle too far and it will rip you a new one. Drop it down too far and it will do nothing but rub. Pass on the Chiefs' game and TAKE THE CLASS.
Chas.

[scotties22]

Scrapers are for wimps.

Real men use a gouge!



Todd

From the use of the word "husband" I get the idea that Scottie22 is a lady, and so free to use the most effective tool for the job without fear of failing your gender test. If she *isn't* a lady, hey, that's cool, live and let live.

You are correct sir....I am indeed a girl (won't say I'm a lady...I like to spit and cuss too much )

I would like to thank all of you for your input and advise. After re-reading this post several times and spending all my free time watching people turn random shit on YouTube I think I have figured out most of my problems. I just came in from the garage where I have managed to do this....



I know the bowl is going to be waaayyyy too tall, but to be honest I wasn't concerned with proportions. I just wanted to get something that resembled a pipe off of the lathe in one piece. The thing I changed? I moved my tool rest a lot closer to the briar and really concentrated on keeping the tool flat on the tool rest. HUGE, HUGE difference that made. No problems at all. I have just a little bit of tear out at the top of the bowl and that is it. I even got all brave and cut some grooves in it with the Easy Rougher (I should have the finisher and detailer in the mail tomorrow ) I am still going to try to take the class, but we'll see how tomorrow goes with the great baby sitter hunt.

On to the drill press now to fuck up the drilling before I take her to the sander.

[oklahoma red]

Also, I have not used an Easy Wood Tool, but I would be very afraid to use a scrapper for rough turning. My opinion is that a scrapper would be much more prone to a catch than a gouge.

Except that it ain't. It's like a lathe tool. The amount of "bite" you can take is governed by the back angle. With a scraper that angle is low. With a gouge, that angle is high, nothing preventing you from sticking it in there and kerpow. Also, scrapers are dead easy to sharpen. Get thick, heavy ones, keeps vibrations down. Perhaps try it, then it won't be a speculative opinion.

Or not. I don't really care how anyone else makes pipes, just trying to help.

Once again I, very helpfully, agree with Jack. I use a Robert Sorby "Spindle Master" for all of my shaping. It's not a spindle gouge, as it's not fluted. It's flat on top and rounded on the bottom with a rounded cutting end, so it's more like a scraper.

It's never caught on anything. It shapes briar and ebonite with ease.

Which size of this tool are you using Rad? The micro or standard 1/2 inch or???
Chas.

I once tried one of those things with the rounded carbide insert on the end. Razor sharp, and it really wants to self feed into the wood, which is not good. I sent it back.

Rad

[oklahoma red]

My question may get buried in the bowels of this tread so I'll bring it out this way.
To Rad,
Which size of the Spindle Master are you using, the micro or standard 1/2" or ????
Chas.

[wmolaw]

Hmm, I have a tool shaped like this, though not a Richard Sorby. I've been using gouges, may give this a try.

I think you may be confused. Richard is Robert's illegitimate half brother, and he doesn't make wood turning tools. He mostly sits around the house and drinks whiskey. Sad really, but he hasn't been the same since the Apple Pie Hubbub.

Rad

So, THAT was the guy with which I had such a nice afternoon! Have to admit, he drinks good Irish, Bushmills, and loves the nic hit from Haddos!

[wmolaw]

Scrapers are for wimps.

Real men use a gouge!



Todd

From the use of the word "husband" I get the idea that Scottie22 is a lady, and so free to use the most effective tool for the job without fear of failing your gender test. If she *isn't* a lady, hey, that's cool, live and let live.

You are correct sir....I am indeed a girl (won't say I'm a lady...I like to spit and cuss too much )

I would like to thank all of you for your input and advise. After re-reading this post several times and spending all my free time watching people turn random shit on YouTube I think I have figured out most of my problems. I just came in from the garage where I have managed to do this....



I know the bowl is going to be waaayyyy too tall, but to be honest I wasn't concerned with proportions. I just wanted to get something that resembled a pipe off of the lathe in one piece. The thing I changed? I moved my tool rest a lot closer to the briar and really concentrated on keeping the tool flat on the tool rest. HUGE, HUGE difference that made. No problems at all. I have just a little bit of tear out at the top of the bowl and that is it. I even got all brave and cut some grooves in it with the Easy Rougher (I should have the finisher and detailer in the mail tomorrow ) I am still going to try to take the class, but we'll see how tomorrow goes with the great baby sitter hunt.

On to the drill press now to fuck up the drilling before I take her to the sander.

I think I'm learning a hell of a lot more than anyone on this thread! And nice job! Really looks good.

Just a question, and this may be because you don't have a Jacobs chuck yet, do you think (and do folks here think) that it is best to turn and then drill, or the other way around? When I've used the lathe (and am going to do a heck of a lot more of that this weekend), I've drilled the draught hole and mortise, and actually inserted the stem I will use and then turned the shank down to near the correct size for sanding. Then I re-chuck, drill the chamber, and turn the stummel.

Is it better to do it the other way around, ie, turn then drill? Damn, I am so ignorant I know these questions are rudimentary, and apologize in advance, just trying to learn.

I forget to ask Richard Sorby this question, or I wouldn't be bothering you. On the other hand, I don't think it would have done much good after his fifth Bushmills anyway! He pours a GOOD drink!

[scotties22]

I have no idea, really. It just seamed I needed to shape first, that way I had something to put my live center on. I will probably do it the same way when I get a chuck. I really like having the live center in place to help hold the briar in the chuck....I know, I know, if the chuck it tight I don't need it. But it FEELS safer and that works for me right now. I'm sure things will change.

[wmolaw]

I have no idea, really. It just seamed I needed to shape first, that way I had something to put my live center on. I will probably do it the same way when I get a chuck. I really like having the live center in place to help hold the briar in the chuck....I know, I know, if the chuck it tight I don't need it. But it FEELS safer and that works for me right now. I'm sure things will change.

By the way, I LOVE huge, deep bowls in which I can pack a ton of flake. If the shank was a bit thicker, that would be one heck of a great start to one heck of a pipe. Hell, even with that size shank, it looks like it will make one great pipe!

[wdteipen]

I drill on the lathe first then shape. I don't think it matters too much though. I just like having the tobacco chamber as a reference when shaping. It also allows me to drill the tobacco chamber wider if I run into flaws in the chamber. If your walls aren't thick enough, this wouldn't be an option. You can still use your live center in the tobacco chamber if you want although I don't. I do most of my shaping from the end like you would a bowl.

[scotties22]

And this is why I really need to buy a chuck so I can drill on the lathe.....



I don't have a bowl scraper, so I can't put it back on the lathe. I will probably end up using the dremel and hand sanding to even things back out. I think I was a little off center and then didn't adjust when I set things up on the drill press. Next time I will use a center finder on the shaped bowl to make sure I hit it dead on. And yes, my mortise is off to that side too. It is going to be a dog tracking ol' girl at the rate I'm going.

[wmolaw]

I drill on the lathe first then shape. I don't think it matters too much though. I just like having the tobacco chamber as a reference when shaping. It also allows me to drill the tobacco chamber wider if I run into flaws in the chamber. If your walls aren't thick enough, this wouldn't be an option. You can still use your live center in the tobacco chamber if you want although I don't. I do most of my shaping from the end like you would a bowl.

That's what I do, when I get brave and shape on the lathe. I have three or four half finished pipes that will just remain that way, or become sacrifices to see how certain dye combos work, all of them which I shaped on the lathe and, somehow, screwed up.

I saw a video where the guy not only shaped the stummel, but also the bowl with a gouge/tool. That was fascinating!

[scotties22]

That was the Blackmar (or something like that) Briar video. Really neat to say the least. I think I might run down to Woodcraft today and get a chuck and a new tailstock. Mine is the one that came with the lathe and it makes it really really tough to turn that end of the shank.

I am turning around 2000 rpm. What speed should I drill? Closer to 700 or so?

[wmolaw]

That was the Blackmar (or something like that) Briar video. Really neat to say the least. I think I might run down to Woodcraft today and get a chuck and a new tailstock. Mine is the one that came with the lathe and it makes it really really tough to turn that end of the shank.

I am turning around 2000 rpm. What speed should I drill? Closer to 700 or so?

Hell, I have no clue. Seems everyone has different speeds at which they turn/drill.

I have been turning at less than 1500, am going to crank it up this weekend and see if there is a huge difference. I have been drilling at about 650 or 700, depends. I've been drilling a bit faster for the draught hole when using a regular HSS bit, and more slowly when drilling the tobacco (first forstner, then spade bit) chamber or otherwise using the forstner. Then I read that drilling slowly with a forstner dulls it more quickly, one should drill at a much higher speed with a forstner to get the cleanest cut possible and to keep it as sharp as possible for as long as possible.

I think it was Rad who said he turns and drills at the fastest speed possible, but takes the thinnest cuts while turning, and just pecks while drilling at those speeds.

I don't think there are any real hard and fast rules. But, what the hell do i know.

[RadDavis]

I think it was Rad who said he turns and drills at the fastest speed possible, but takes the thinnest cuts while turning, and just pecks while drilling at those speeds.

I don't think there are any real hard and fast rules. But, what the hell do i know.

I drill at slower speeds. I drill the bowl at around 650, because it reduces chatter. Like Tyler said, "Turn fast, drill slow."

The Spindle Master I use is the 1/2", I think.

Also, if you're going to shape on the lathe, you should drill without removing your stummel from the chuck. This keeps everything concentric, so you don't end up with a bowl drilling that's off center. Shape before drilling the bowl or after, it doesn't matter, just keep the block in the same position for both. Once it's off the lathe, you'll never get it back in the same position again.

Rad

[wmolaw]

I think it was Rad who said he turns and drills at the fastest speed possible, but takes the thinnest cuts while turning, and just pecks while drilling at those speeds.

I don't think there are any real hard and fast rules. But, what the hell do i know.

I drill at slower speeds. I drill the bowl at around 650, because it reduces chatter. Like Tyler said, "Turn fast, drill slow."

The Spindle Master I use is the 1/2", I think.

Also, if you're going to shape on the lathe, you should drill without removing your stummel from the chuck. This keeps everything concentric, so you don't end up with a bowl drilling that's off center. Shape before drilling the bowl or after, it doesn't matter, just keep the block in the same position for both. Once it's off the lathe, you'll never get it back in the same position again.

Rad

Great, that makes more sense, I must have misread/quoted.

[JHowell]

You can get a block in the same position again if you have a dial indicator with a magnetic base. Put the block back in the same marks left by the jaws and tighten just enough to hold firmly. Indicate on an already turned surface, and gently tap, tap, tap with something like a brad hammer until you get within a thousandth or two. You won't be dead on unless you do the same thing at another spot and get both spots with no runout, but with the original jaw marks and an indicator you can get close enough for pipes. You don't even need an indicator, you can just move the tool rest close enough to the work to act as a reference and tap, move it closer, tap, move it closer. Or, you can drill, tap, and put pointed pins in your jaws that leave indentations into which you can reinsert the block. But it's quicker all around just to do it all in one operation like Rad says. With the time it takes to fiddle around and get a block perfectly back in the lathe you can just about turn another stummel.

Drilling on a drill press and turning on a lathe, I don't think you're ever going to get those to line up, holding by the outside of the block. The closest you could come would be to chuck, turn to establish centers for drilling. Then drill, starting with a center drill so you could really drop it in precisely. Relatively. But you can get a Jacobs chuck for $20.

[taharris]

Get a Jacob's chuck and drill on the lathe. You will be happy you did.

This is assuming, of course, that your tail stock lines up perfectly (or very close) to your head stock.

I have a Jet 1236 wood lathe and the tail stock has just a little bit of play in it. You will never get the same precision from a wood lathe that you would from a metal lathe,
but after you gain some more experience you will learn how to adjust the tail stock to get a straight bore. I only notice the issue when I am fitting stems.
I frequently have to file the stemmel just a bit to eliminate stem gap.

On shaping stemmels. I like to shape as much of the pipe as possible on the lathe because I am much better at turning than sanding/shaping.

Also, the turned portion of the stemmel gives me a reference point to aim for when I am shaping on the sanding wheel.

Todd

[potholer]

+1 on the spindle master

the Skewchigouge by crown tools is good as well
hamlet tools also make 'spindle master' type tools and are less expensive than sorby tools!

real men use skews

being a wimp i use the above and scrapers and gouges

regards
dave