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Hey guys! No 2 here, also in cherry. The billiard seemed like a good shape to learn next, and my new sanding wheel/arbor from Kurt made rounding that stummel a lot easier.
I turned the last pipe at 800 rpms, which from what I've read here is very slow, so I tried upping the speed and destroyed 2 chucks of cherry (traumatic loss of shank). The problem disappeared again when I lowered the speed. I think the softness of cherry coupled with the straight grain makes it a slow-turnin' wood. Also, I doubt my tools are as sharp as they could be; I sharpen them by hand with 150 grit paper on a wheel.
Aaaand finally, back to back.
I found that putting the live center in the mortise really helps the shank stay on the pipe while I am turning . In all seriousness, it really does help. I am turning at about 2000 rpms and haven't had any problems. Also, make sure your tool rest is as close to your block as possible.
Am I Calamity Jane or Annie Oakley??...depends on the day. www.ladybriar.com
Thanks weteipen. I see what you did there...
You're right, it is more pottish. I guess if I wanted it more billiardy next time I oughta remove more material from the sides of that bowl, and maybe give it more of a taper?
scotties22 wrote:I found that putting the live center in the mortise really helps the shank stay on the pipe while I am turning . In all seriousness, it really does help. I am turning at about 2000 rpms and haven't had any problems. Also, make sure your tool rest is as close to your block as possible.
Haha, thanks Scottie! I read your escapade with the exploding briar. For now I'll just keep the speed slow; I don't see a huge benefit in upping the speed at the moment.
scotties22 wrote:I found that putting the live center in the mortise really helps the shank stay on the pipe while I am turning . In all seriousness, it really does help. I am turning at about 2000 rpms and haven't had any problems. Also, make sure your tool rest is as close to your block as possible.
Haha, thanks Scottie! I read your escapade with the exploding briar. For now I'll just keep the speed slow; I don't see a huge benefit in upping the speed at the moment.[/quote]
Well, if you want to get into the wood chucking olympics you gotta see how far you can chuck a hunk......Remember the hold MJ, Larry Byrd McD's commercials....over the rafters, off the bleachers and in the basket. Well, I've got off the wall, between the lathe stand legs, off the side of the van and across the garage....more than once.
Am I Calamity Jane or Annie Oakley??...depends on the day. www.ladybriar.com
scotties22 wrote:Well, if you want to get into the wood chucking olympics you gotta see how far you can chuck a hunk......Remember the hold MJ, Larry Byrd McD's commercials....over the rafters, off the bleachers and in the basket. Well, I've got off the wall, between the lathe stand legs, off the side of the van and across the garage....more than once.
Aw man, I dunno if I can compete with that. My workshop is a pretty small room; not a lot of room to really let the wood fly.
Thanks weteipen. I see what you did there...
You're right, it is more pottish. I guess if I wanted it more billiardy next time I oughta remove more material from the sides of that bowl, and maybe give it more of a taper?
For it to be a billiard you could keep the bowl thickness if the bowl was taller. With the current height, you're right that thinning the bowl diameter would be a good solution to bring it back to a billiard shape. A billiard doesn't have to taper to the rim. It can be vertical like some Dunhills. What you don't want is to round the bowl. Doing so will leave it looking like an apple, brandy, or egg. Whether you taper slightly or not; it should be relatively straight from the waist to the rim.
wdteipen wrote:
For it to be a billiard you could keep the bowl thickness if the bowl was taller. With the current height, you're right that thinning the bowl diameter would be a good solution to bring it back to a billiard shape. A billiard doesn't have to taper to the rim. It can be vertical like some Dunhills. What you don't want is to round the bowl. Doing so will leave it looking like an apple, brandy, or egg. Whether you taper slightly or not; it should be relatively straight from the waist to the rim.
Ahhh, okay. Well I officially declare this one not a billiard, because I never intended it to be one ever at any point, and will take your tips into account for next time. Thanks Wayne! Much appreciated.
. In all seriousness, it really does help. I am turning at about 2000 rpms and haven't had any problems. Also, make sure your tool rest is as close to your block as possible.
