pipemakersforum.com

There's been a little talk lately about french wheels, mostly among folks wanting to know where to get them.

I've never used one. Anyone actually use one? If so, what for? Not having used, seen one used, or talked on the phone to someone who uses one, I'm curious about them. I've talked to a LOT of pipe makers, and no one has talked about using their french wheel, as I recall. Whats the deal?

Tyler

I don't have one, have never used one, or know anyone who has

hope that helps

rev

I just bought one from Tim West. I have a really cheap sanding disc from Ace Hardware that I do all my rough shaping with and then do most of my final shaping with the french wheel. It's really nice and makes quick work of the shank/bowl junction. The way the paper wraps around you can't (at least I haven't yet) cust any gouges in the wood that I had to try to chase out. Once I am done on the wheel it takes just a few minutes of hand sanding at 220 (this is what's on the wheel too) to get things smooth. I'm hoping with time that I will get comfortable with the wheel and not have to sand by hand at 220 anymore.....or at least not as much. I really, really like the french wheel and as long as I don't rush I haven't taken too much off a pipe yet.

Tyler

I don't have the years you do in this, but I haven't ever used one nor do I have one.. My bowl shank junction (when a sharp junction) is done via a standing sanding disc, and then with files... but then again I'm not producing 300 a year.

I went to a Rainer Barbi discussion a few years ago and he had them...but other German makers that I am lucky enough to visit do it like you and I do... I know this doesn't help and one one hand I think the french wheel would probably make a difference but on the other.. na ja.. personally I'm not sold on the idea.. if I was I would have made one by now

Maybe you can make one before the Hooooodddooooowwwwnnnn and show me how wrong I am

james

jogilli wrote:Tyler

I don't have the years you do in this, but I haven't ever used one nor do I have one.. My bowl shank junction (when a sharp junction) is done via a standing sanding disc, and then with files... but then again I'm not producing 300 a year.

I went to a Rainer Barbi discussion a few years ago and he had them...but other German makers that I am lucky enough to visit do it like you and I do... I know this doesn't help and one one hand I think the french wheel would probably make a difference but on the other.. na ja.. personally I'm not sold on the idea.. if I was I would have made one by now

Maybe you can make one before the Hooooodddooooowwwwnnnn and show me how wrong I am

james

I don't think you are wrong. I'm just unfamiliar. Heck, French fries and French wines are so good, maybe their wheels are too?!

I've got one from Tim West. Haven't used it since I got a 10$ hook & loop pad since it's a pita too get off the arbor which is also my arbor for the jacobs chuck I use for polishing.

I'm considering using it again because it has one main advantage: it's curved, so you can work on the stem/shank junction without touching the bit or the stummel and still get a flat surface from it..
Wether it's worth the $130 I paid? I don't think so, especially when compared to a pad like the one Kurt sells...

Will someone post a picture of one? I can't find one on a Google search and would be interested in seeing what they look like.

Here's this from pipe makers' emporium:

http://pipemakers.org/pdf/french_wheel_diagram.pdf

It doesn't really help though, at least for my understanding of a French wheel. The defining attribute of a French wheel as I understand it is a convex surface. The sanding disc is domed away from the motor, and you can't see that in this document.

Also, 120 grit? That looks like a horrible situation with the big corners on the edge. Shaping on a whup, whup, whup, whup, whup wheel looks miserable. Maybe it softens out with use? Surely it's better with a higher grit.

I saw a video with *I think* tokutomi shaping a horn on a big french wheel.

I mostly use a rasp I made from bears' teeth.

Don't forget to polish with baby seal fur.

Tyler wrote:Here's this from pipe makers' emporium:

http://pipemakers.org/pdf/french_wheel_diagram.pdf

It doesn't really help though, at least for my understanding of a French wheel. The defining attribute of a French wheel as I understand it is a convex surface. The sanding disc is domed away from the motor, and you can't see that in this document.

Also, 120 grit? That looks like a horrible situation with the big corners on the edge. Shaping on a whup, whup, whup, whup, whup wheel looks miserable. Maybe it softens out with use? Surely it's better with a higher grit.

i even went down to 60 grit on mine the corners are normally far enough to the edges that you don't touch them, the advantage of a convex surface..

Here's some pictures of mine. Hope this helps.

I made one a couple of years back, basically copying what I had seen online. Managed to get paper wrapped around it in the end but never could get on with those edges, they would either tear or bump the wood around. In the end I made a curved sanding disc and used a self adhesive sandpaper to stick to it, essentially does the same job I think. Still 95% of my shaping is done with hook and loop flat pads

Massis wrote:

Tyler wrote:Here's this from pipe makers' emporium:

http://pipemakers.org/pdf/french_wheel_diagram.pdf

It doesn't really help though, at least for my understanding of a French wheel. The defining attribute of a French wheel as I understand it is a convex surface. The sanding disc is domed away from the motor, and you can't see that in this document.

Also, 120 grit? That looks like a horrible situation with the big corners on the edge. Shaping on a whup, whup, whup, whup, whup wheel looks miserable. Maybe it softens out with use? Surely it's better with a higher grit.

i even went down to 60 grit on mine the corners are normally far enough to the edges that you don't touch them, the advantage of a convex surface..

Maybe that's what I don't understand. On a normal wheel I live on the edge. I guess that's why the French wheel is a mystery to me. Now living on the edge is somewhat by necessity, because of the lack of the domed surface that the french wheel has, but I don't think it's limiting. That why I'm curious I guess. I'm trying to figure out either why I need one, or how to explain to others to save their money.

Tyler wrote:

Massis wrote:

Tyler wrote:Here's this from pipe makers' emporium:

http://pipemakers.org/pdf/french_wheel_diagram.pdf

It doesn't really help though, at least for my understanding of a French wheel. The defining attribute of a French wheel as I understand it is a convex surface. The sanding disc is domed away from the motor, and you can't see that in this document.

Also, 120 grit? That looks like a horrible situation with the big corners on the edge. Shaping on a whup, whup, whup, whup, whup wheel looks miserable. Maybe it softens out with use? Surely it's better with a higher grit.

i even went down to 60 grit on mine the corners are normally far enough to the edges that you don't touch them, the advantage of a convex surface..

Maybe that's what I don't understand. On a normal wheel I live on the edge. I guess that's why the French wheel is a mystery to me. Now some of that is by necessity, because of the lack of the domed surface that the french wheel has, but I don't think it's limiting. That why I'm curious I guess. I'm trying to figure out either why I need one, or how to explain to others to save their money.

Have no clue how this helps vs. other pads. In fact, as noted by Caskwith, it seems like it would be tough to get into a tight junction.

Of course, my experience fits into a thimble, but could never justify the cost for the supposed benefit.

I use the french wheely thingy I make that uses DA pads. It's not convex, but over time it will relax into a slightly convex shape - nothing like those pics above though. I like it flatter anyway - works best for me that way. That said, the belt grinder still gets a lot of use with certain shapes.

Tyler, isn't Grant Batson rocking a French wheel? I thought for sure he had one.

I use a home brew French Wheel on certain shapes. Things like Volcano shapes or any other shaping that involves concave curves. Mine is somewhat more convex then the one Trent makes. It's a lot easier to keep those concave curves even and flowing for me when using a convex surface to shape with. I still do the majority of the shaping on the 36 grit wheel, but then switch to the 220 French Wheel to fine tune those curves.

SimeonTurner wrote:Tyler, isn't Grant Batson rocking a French wheel? I thought for sure he had one.

Nope.

Tyler wrote:Not having used, seen one used, or talked on the phone to someone who uses one, I'm curious about them.

Dude, I have at least 4.

You can use them to make any French shape effectively; even some English shapes turn out fine. Danish are ok, but anything with a Japanese inspired aesthetic does not turn out on a French wheel.