Lucite/Acrylic Stems

[Multidimensional]

Could anyone give me a few pointers on what to watch for when working with preformed Lucite stems? This is my first time using Lucite bits and I'm a bit curious as to how different they are compared to Vulcanite. I read that they easily melt when buffing too forceful. Do they need to be buffed and if so with which compunds? Also, are Lucite stems bent the same way as Vulcanite stems? (oven, salt, etc...) I would also be interested in finding out which grits are best used to sand these stems. I'd really appreciate any help I can get so that I don't screw up these stems!
Cheers
Bryan

[jeff]

I've found Lucite difficult to work for the reasons that you raise in your post. You must be very cautious and patient when drilling the stem out (if you do this) because it is very easy to overheat the airway and melt the bit in the bore. Take it slowly and remove the bit frequently to allow it to cool. Otherwise, I've found that you treat it in a very similar manner as you would treat vulcanite. The sanding grits, etc are the same and it buffs up to an incredible shine. Good luck!

JG

[RadDavis]

I, just this morning, had a disastrous experience with lucite.

Mark Tinsky and I made 2 huge matching rusticated Oompauls for a customer. Mark uses Lucite and I use vulcanite. He sent me his pipe to stain at the same time I stained mine so they would match. He also left it to me to bend the stems.

Mine went just perfect. Mark's Lucite was bending just fine when I gave it the last little push to get it the same as my stem and *snap*, the saddle stem broke right in the middle of the flat part. Apparently, I didn't get it quite hot enough.

That pipe is on it's way back to Mark for a new stem instead of to the customer. Mark can bend the damn thing. He's used to it.

I hate Lucite.

Rad

[marks]

When drilling, use cutting fluid. It keeps it from overheating, mostly. Still have to go slow. On a suggestion from Brian Ruthenberg, I got some Tru Edge cutting fluid from MSC. It works very well. It is also approved for machinery used in food processing.

I heat acrylic over a candle or butane lighter. Just go slow, it will bend. Wear thick gloves because you will have to hold the stem at the bend point till it cools, and it is hot!!

I've never had the experience Random describes. However, after filing, I sand it to within an inch of its life, going from 100 to 1200 grit before buffing (Greg Pease, after looking at one of my pipes in Richmond, suggested much higher grits and less time on the buffer, and I like the results).

Buffing, I use the standard white compound, then I use the tan compound that Mike Brissett suggested on this board (bought it from Grizzly). Use the tan with a very soft wheel. The acrylic almost looks wet when you're done. Very nice compound, that tan stuff.

Rad, I love lucite.

[bluesmk]

Mark,
Is that tan compound you get from Grizzly, one of the Menzerna compound bars ???
Dan
Gabrieli Pipes

[marks]

Hi Dan,

Yes, it is item number H0815, the Very Fine High Gloss Compound.

This stuff really works great for a final buff on stems. Takes out all the scratches from the coarser compound.

[bluesmk]

Mark,
Thanks! You have no idea how long I've put off buying it.
Putting an order together now! I love this board!
Dan
Gabrieli Pipes

[Multidimensional]

Thanks for the insight, I really appreciate it!
Bryan