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I just got a block of 1200 grit blue Tripoli, and now I want to make sure I use it correctly

Should it be applied wet or dry, is a buffing wheel required or can a piece of cloth be used?

So anyhow, I just put the finish on my first actually halfway decent briar pipe. I'm going to put a churchwarden stem on it soon, but that's a subject for another thread.



It's not a perfect shiny finish. There are scratches that aren't visible in the pic. I think it looks quite nice, but I'm wondering what the the "grit order" is for removing scratches from high quality briar.

I'm certain I didn't use the correct technique, I went from 100 grit sandpaper to 600 grit sandpaper, and then to 1200 grit blue tripoli.

You need to use a few more grits of sandpaper, i would suggest something like 180,180,240,240,400,600

caskwith wrote:You need to use a few more grits of sandpaper, i would suggest something like 180,180,240,240,400,600

Then buff with red tripoli, then white diamond, then carnuba. Unless you've got another use for it, throw away your blue tripoli 'cause you'll never use it again on a pipe.

throw away your blue tripoli 'cause you'll never use it again on a pipe

I was hoping an explanation would come along with this part.

Why would a pipe crafting supply website sell it then?

It presents an option.

The white compound is generally preferred if only because it isn't blue. Pounding blue compound into the pores of a pipe is a drag.


At any rate, the advice offered so far is right - you can't sand at 100 and 600 and jump to 1200 tripoli and expect a nice finish.

Time spent at 200 and 320 really pays off.

It seemed to put a pretty good polish on it and it didn't get stuck in any of the surface imperfections.

I bought it because it was cheaper, pound for pound.

But you're right Uberhuberman, I'll follow the tried and true methods.

Sasquatch wrote:The white compound is generally preferred if only because it isn't blue. Pounding blue compound into the pores of a pipe is a drag.

Would that be Matchless brand white HF1 (product code)?

I too bought the damn blue from pipe makers emporium and am not happy with it at all. It does change the color of the finish and it flies all over the place.

Yep, the 2.5 pound block, right?

I didn't get that result. I applied it with a Dremel

I used a new 8" buffing wheel. It will put a shine but does put a slight tint. I am going to try white HF1. I believe this is what is commonly used but am not sure yet. Waiting for a response.

you need a buffing wheel, preferably with a motor to run it. You can get them at http://www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/buffer.php

use that set. Make sure and sand very well to atleast 400, (I don't go above that) and then go red tripoli, go hard with this, especially on your stem. Look at your pipe under a bright light as you buff it. If you see scratch marks go back and sand them out. When you are done with the red you pipe should be shining. Then put on gloves, and buff the white diamond compound, make sure everything... especially the stem is shining brilliantly. Then gently apply the carnuba only to the pipe, not the stem. The only thing you should use your dremel tool for when it comes to buffing is areas where you cannot get the wheels to work.

rev

I tried blue on pipes, it always left a coloured haze on natural finishes. I now use it for polishing silver and aluminium for which it works superbly.

From PME, the final polish is this stuff before waxing: http://www.pipemakers.org/misc/hilust_2.png

the rev wrote:you need a buffing wheel, preferably with a motor to run it. You can get them at http://www.bealltool.com/products/buffing/buffer.php

use that set. Make sure and sand very well to atleast 400, (I don't go above that) and then go red tripoli, go hard with this, especially on your stem. Look at your pipe under a bright light as you buff it. If you see scratch marks go back and sand them out. When you are done with the red you pipe should be shining. Then put on gloves, and buff the white diamond compound, make sure everything... especially the stem is shining brilliantly. Then gently apply the carnuba only to the pipe, not the stem. The only thing you should use your dremel tool for when it comes to buffing is areas where you cannot get the wheels to work.

rev

between which steps do you stain your pipes?
for example, if you went in with a black contrast once or twice and then a final color stain

Something like..... sand at 120, sand at 220, sand at 320, stain. Sand again, maybe stain again (most likely). At this point you are working with 320 or 400 paper, getting the coloration you want. Once it's stained up and looking good, you can start with the polishing and finishing phase.

great, thank you

is the white diamond the hi luster 1200 grit? or is it the other white tripoli stuff? PME doesnt list anything as white diamond

I've got a dual bench grinder with all the protective plates that I intend to see if I can dismantle and put a buffing and sanding wheel on.

BigCasino wrote:is the white diamond the hi luster 1200 grit? or is it the other white tripoli stuff? PME doesnt list anything as white diamond

High luster compound, yeah.

thanks Sas!