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Re: My drilling
Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 10:03 pm
by andrew
caskwith wrote:
Yeah thats pretty much how I do it. First I measure the depth on my layout lines, this gives me a good approximation of the drilling depth. I have fitted a DRO to my tailstock so I use this to check my progress, once I get close I stop and blow some air into the shank, it chips spray out i know I have hit the airway, if not I advance another mm and try again. Once I do get chips, i slide back the taistock and shine a torch in there to see my progress, from this I adjust until the airway makes a nice teardrop shape at the bottom of the chamber.
+1 this. Except I use my lungs and get sawdust in my eyes
Re: My drilling
Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 10:34 pm
by scotties22
Andrew, I do the same thing
.
Re: My drilling
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 1:24 am
by andrew
scotties22 wrote:Andrew, I do the same thing
.
Picking sawdust out of your eye is a skill, just like ninja skills
I'm a sawdust ninja.
Re: My drilling
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 2:37 am
by AlfaDog
BigCasino wrote:Yeah it would be tough to use a bamboo skewer in the draft hole while she is spinning around on a lathe, plus I don't keep my compressor running and handy, I was mainly referring to drilling with a press, I always pre-check and mark my bit but I like the skewer as a back up, I stuff it in the draft hole and while I'm drilling the chamber when I see it start to bounce I know I am getting to it..... yeah i'm kinda of a little OCD about some stuff
That skewer idea sounds like it would work pretty good.
I mark my bit a little short and when I'm close I shine a flashlight down the
shank and look into the chamber. When I'm real close but haven't hit the airhole yet, the bottom of the chamber will glow through the wood. Like holding your hand over a flashlight, you know how your hand turns red? Like that. Then I just drill a little deeper and shine the light in the shank again. I can see the hole alot better shining the light through the shank than I can when I shine it in the chamber.
Re: My drilling
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 4:21 am
by caskwith
BigCasino wrote:Yeah it would be tough to use a bamboo skewer in the draft hole while she is spinning around on a lathe, plus I don't keep my compressor running and handy, I was mainly referring to drilling with a press, I always pre-check and mark my bit but I like the skewer as a back up, I stuff it in the draft hole and while I'm drilling the chamber when I see it start to bounce I know I am getting to it..... yeah i'm kinda of a little OCD about some stuff
If it works for you then great, I have never drilled on a press so don't really know the good methods.
As to air, I always keep the compressor charged so I can do jobs like this, blow through stems etc. I actually have 2 compressors, one large for the sandblaster which gets used just for that, and a smaller more portable one, the small one gets filled up and then switched off, it doesnt leak unlike the larger compressor so a charge lasts me several week of light use before it needs topping up.
Re: My drilling
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 4:35 am
by archaggelosmichail
I used to have the same vice.
1)Unscrew the thin inserts from the jaws, then go and make or adjust the inserts to have a pin in their center.
2)Use them by nailing them in the point where airhole and bowl bottom meets.
3)Drill the airhole first and then with opening the vice as much as the block is free to rotate but with the pins still in it drill the chamber.
4)100% success
Michail
Re: My drilling
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 4:44 am
by Massis
scotties22 wrote:Andrew, I do the same thing
.
Same here, I usually do this 3 or 4 times before I get the depth to exactly where I want it...
Re: My drilling
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 10:30 am
by DMI
Michail, I love the idea but with the size of some of the blocks I use it would not work as the vice is not deep enough to allow for rotation.
David.
Re: My drilling
Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 11:08 am
by archaggelosmichail
I had the 100mm jaws opening model.
I made inserts of 9mm thickness each, did an extra hole in the vice body center-and-lower of the other 2 and made the inserts 24mm bigger to the top.
I ended up having a 81mm opening vice(whick was great cause the thicker briar I've ever worked was 67mm) and the space to rotate almost every pipe(except a Group6+ dublin).
Trust me it will save you time, money and briar.
My model:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... rod851108/