Half Canadian Bulldog
Half Canadian Bulldog
Hey guys!
Here is my latest attempt at a bulldog variant with a slightly longer shank and shortened stem. The band is moose antler (actually got it straight this time).
I kept it neutral since I glued the antler piece, to both this one and my last bulldog at the same time, before staining and the stain bled through all of the antler the last time.
It was my first handcut saddle stem. Actually a bit trickier than a regular and than I thought it would be, but it turned out ok!
Yes, it is a sitter (thank you Wayne for that idea)
Please tell me what you think
Best regards, Jon
Edit:
Length: 120 mm
Height: 45 mm
Weight: 30 g
Here is my latest attempt at a bulldog variant with a slightly longer shank and shortened stem. The band is moose antler (actually got it straight this time).
I kept it neutral since I glued the antler piece, to both this one and my last bulldog at the same time, before staining and the stain bled through all of the antler the last time.
It was my first handcut saddle stem. Actually a bit trickier than a regular and than I thought it would be, but it turned out ok!
Yes, it is a sitter (thank you Wayne for that idea)
Please tell me what you think
Best regards, Jon
Edit:
Length: 120 mm
Height: 45 mm
Weight: 30 g
Last edited by JonBood on Wed Feb 27, 2013 2:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- wisemanpipes
- Posts: 528
- Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2013 12:11 pm
- Location: Guelph, Ontario
Re: Half Canadian Bulldog
beautiful. i love that one. the shank bowl transition looks sharp but i cant see from afar.
evan
evan
Re: Half Canadian Bulldog
Nice work; diamond shanks are tricky. The only thing that bothers me is the shank's decreasing size as it approaches the bowl. This is especially visible in the last image you posted. No doubt this is (at least in part) due to the flat portion on the bottom, but it distracts from the geometry. I would sand the flat consistently across the bottom (even into the stem itself), and on the next one, I would leave a little extra meat (.015" ish) on the shank near the bowl.
Again, I think it's well done - precisely executed.
Again, I think it's well done - precisely executed.
Re: Half Canadian Bulldog
Thanks for the comments!
Ernie, I see your point. It didn't bother me at first but now as you say it, I see it too and it is due to the flattened bottom. I'm not sure that it bothers me that much although I really understand what you mean! (and I also guess your eye is better trained than mine )
/Jon
Ernie, I see your point. It didn't bother me at first but now as you say it, I see it too and it is due to the flattened bottom. I'm not sure that it bothers me that much although I really understand what you mean! (and I also guess your eye is better trained than mine )
Do you mean less sharp transition between shank and bowl or am I misinterpreting?I would leave a little extra meat (.015" ish) on the shank near the bowl.
/Jon
- archaggelosmichail
- Posts: 188
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Re: Half Canadian Bulldog
That's an really well designed and executed pipe.
I love the proportions and the sadlle stem.
Michail
I love the proportions and the sadlle stem.
Michail
Re: Half Canadian Bulldog
Well, I would leave a touch more in the transition since that is razor sharp, but I wasn't referring to that. I just meant that your shank should be a touch thicker toward the bowl. Sometimes, even if it's perfectly parallel all the way down, it looks like it tapers toward the bowl due to an optical illusion. Leaving just a little wood there will help with that.JonBood wrote:Do you mean less sharp transition between shank and bowl or am I misinterpreting?E Dizzle wrote: I would leave a little extra meat (.015" ish) on the shank near the bowl.
Jon
Re: Half Canadian Bulldog
I saw some of that in the last one I did, thanks for the input! I will have to think about that on the next one.e Markle wrote:Well, I would leave a touch more in the transition since that is razor sharp, but I wasn't referring to that. I just meant that your shank should be a touch thicker toward the bowl. Sometimes, even if it's perfectly parallel all the way down, it looks like it tapers toward the bowl due to an optical illusion. Leaving just a little wood there will help with that.JonBood wrote:Do you mean less sharp transition between shank and bowl or am I misinterpreting?E Dizzle wrote: I would leave a little extra meat (.015" ish) on the shank near the bowl.
Jon
When I get lost into it it feels like the perfect parallel is the ultimate goal...but of course, beating the optimal illusion of asymmetry is what many of the great artists did best
- Joe Hinkle Pipes
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Re: Half Canadian Bulldog
That's a great looking pipe. I agree that the illusion of the reverse taper is distracting, but if that's the only complaint you did pretty well!
Re: Half Canadian Bulldog
Thanks you guys for all complements and feedback!
A couple of new things to think about when cutting the next one
A couple of new things to think about when cutting the next one
Re: Half Canadian Bulldog
Sir -
Your shaping is very crisp and sharp. One can tell you are mastering the tools. The detail work is wonderful. With the advice already given to you it will not be long before you have mastered the "technicalities" that are recognised as being critical to nailing the classic shapes. Good job.
Do you have any Swedish Mauser parts laying around you're not using?
Wallace
Your shaping is very crisp and sharp. One can tell you are mastering the tools. The detail work is wonderful. With the advice already given to you it will not be long before you have mastered the "technicalities" that are recognised as being critical to nailing the classic shapes. Good job.
Do you have any Swedish Mauser parts laying around you're not using?
Wallace
Re: Half Canadian Bulldog
Thanks Wallace.
/Jon
Well that depends on what you mean by laying around. I don't but there is a lot of them for sale here. But I think most of the metal parts demands some sort of license to buy.Do you have any Swedish Mauser parts laying around you're not using?
/Jon
Re: Half Canadian Bulldog
Only the receiver here.JonBood wrote:Thanks Wallace.Well that depends on what you mean by laying around. I don't but there is a lot of them for sale here. But I think most of the metal parts demands some sort of license to buy.Do you have any Swedish Mauser parts laying around you're not using?
/Jon