Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
Last edited by d.huber on Sun Mar 10, 2013 1:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
So yeah. I don't know if I don't have enough light or what, but I'm really unhappy with the pictures I'm getting.
Here's a quick snapshot with my phone.
I've got to be doing something wrong if I can get better pictures of the pipes with my phone than with a photo studio type set up. Any advice from you photo gurus would be extremely appreciated.
Here's a quick snapshot with my phone.
I've got to be doing something wrong if I can get better pictures of the pipes with my phone than with a photo studio type set up. Any advice from you photo gurus would be extremely appreciated.
Re: Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
David, how the heck did you get so good so fast! Those are my favorites of yours so far!
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Re: Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
phones can take good pictures up close in bright light. if you can't take them outside try right beside a window. if you want to setup for taking them inside without glare make a light box or at least put the camera on a tripod then if you want a brighter photo slow the shutter speed down.
Re: Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
Thanks, Jessie!Ocelot55 wrote:David, how the heck did you get so good so fast! Those are my favorites of yours so far!
Re: Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
So... here's the problem. The photos in the OP were taken with a lightbox with my camera mounted on a tripod with a toilet paper roll around the lens to reduce flare. I then drop the photos into gimp to increase the exposure and then make adjustments to get the color as close to accurate as possible.futodugouts wrote:phones can take good pictures up close in bright light. if you can't take them outside try right beside a window. if you want to setup for taking them inside without glare make a light box or at least put the camera on a tripod then if you want a brighter photo slow the shutter speed down.
The thing that I'm having serious trouble with, as you can see from the OP pics, is blurring at the edge and portions of the pipe are out of focus while other portions are sharp(er). The latter issue must have something to do with depth of field, but I've got no idea how to fix it.
Right now, my best idea is to use the smaller of the two light boxes that came with the set to get more light on the pipes and either go freehand or use a gorilla pod (small amorphous tripod) to get the camera closer.
- oklahoma red
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Re: Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
Try to get your exposure correct in the camera rather than trying to manipulate it too much after the fact.
Shoot in manual mode and use a high f-stop number to increase the depth of field. Keep your ISO speed down around 200.
Stopping down will mean slow shutter speed so for sure use a tripod and set the self timer to a 2 to 5 second delay to give you time to get your hands off of the camera.
Perhaps your lights are not powerful enough. If you are underexposed to start with you will be limited by what you can do with the software. If the lights are not powerful enough your exposures will run too long and you'll have to start bumping up the ISO to compensate since you are using high f-stop numbers. As the ISO goes up you run the risk of introducing electronic noise. Equate that to pushing the old ASA numbers on film and getting too much grain.
If your camera has the capability, shoot in RAW format. The file size is HUGE but all of your info is there, just like a photographic negative. Do your manipulation with the software then save as a high quality .jpg and re-size it for the web, 800 to 1000 pixels wide works well.
Set up a test and bracket your exposures to find what is right for the set up you are trying to shoot.
Learn how to read the histogram that the camera produces as it contains a wealth of information.
Set your exposure for the object you are trying to photograph. If you are picking up the white background with the camera's sensor you will be underexposing the object.
That is why you want to set your exposures manually and take the camera's sensor out the process.
Again, do test shots and bracket the exposures to find what works.
There are lots of tutorials on the web. Check them out.
Chas.
Shoot in manual mode and use a high f-stop number to increase the depth of field. Keep your ISO speed down around 200.
Stopping down will mean slow shutter speed so for sure use a tripod and set the self timer to a 2 to 5 second delay to give you time to get your hands off of the camera.
Perhaps your lights are not powerful enough. If you are underexposed to start with you will be limited by what you can do with the software. If the lights are not powerful enough your exposures will run too long and you'll have to start bumping up the ISO to compensate since you are using high f-stop numbers. As the ISO goes up you run the risk of introducing electronic noise. Equate that to pushing the old ASA numbers on film and getting too much grain.
If your camera has the capability, shoot in RAW format. The file size is HUGE but all of your info is there, just like a photographic negative. Do your manipulation with the software then save as a high quality .jpg and re-size it for the web, 800 to 1000 pixels wide works well.
Set up a test and bracket your exposures to find what is right for the set up you are trying to shoot.
Learn how to read the histogram that the camera produces as it contains a wealth of information.
Set your exposure for the object you are trying to photograph. If you are picking up the white background with the camera's sensor you will be underexposing the object.
That is why you want to set your exposures manually and take the camera's sensor out the process.
Again, do test shots and bracket the exposures to find what works.
There are lots of tutorials on the web. Check them out.
Chas.
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- Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 9:07 pm
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- Contact:
Re: Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
closer = narrower depth of field, try backing up the tripod and zooming inThe thing that I'm having serious trouble with, as you can see from the OP pics, is blurring at the edge and portions of the pipe are out of focus while other portions are sharp(er). The latter issue must have something to do with depth of field, but I've got no idea how to fix it.
Right now, my best idea is to use the smaller of the two light boxes that came with the set to get more light on the pipes and either go freehand or use a gorilla pod (small amorphous tripod) to get the camera closer.
Re: Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
A wealth of information! Thanks, guys!
Re: Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
I took new photos last night using some of the advice you guys gave. I'm much happier with the results. Clearly, I still need to work at improving my photos, but if this is the base standard, I'm happy.
You can see the updated photos in the OP.
Thanks again!
You can see the updated photos in the OP.
Thanks again!
- oklahoma red
- Posts: 1084
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 6:14 pm
Re: Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
Much better! You're on the right path.
If your software has the feature, apply some "un-sharp mask". Opposite of what it sounds like but it will add some snap to the pics. Be advised tho that a little of it goes a long way. Again, experiment. That's the beauty of digital photography. Instant gratification which fits right into today's life style. No darkroom, no chemicals, no muss and no fuss.
Chas.
BTW, nice work!
If your software has the feature, apply some "un-sharp mask". Opposite of what it sounds like but it will add some snap to the pics. Be advised tho that a little of it goes a long way. Again, experiment. That's the beauty of digital photography. Instant gratification which fits right into today's life style. No darkroom, no chemicals, no muss and no fuss.
Chas.
BTW, nice work!
Re: Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
Thanks for the help and for the compliment!oklahoma red wrote:Much better! You're on the right path.
If your software has the feature, apply some "un-sharp mask". Opposite of what it sounds like but it will add some snap to the pics. Be advised tho that a little of it goes a long way. Again, experiment. That's the beauty of digital photography. Instant gratification which fits right into today's life style. No darkroom, no chemicals, no muss and no fuss.
Chas.
BTW, nice work!
Re: Copper Head & Robin (17 & 18)
Second this. Walt has a good thread on this very subject. Too close can throw off proportions and make stems look crooked when they're not and other goofy stuff. Back up as far as the zoom will allow.futodugouts wrote:closer = narrower depth of field, try backing up the tripod and zooming inThe thing that I'm having serious trouble with, as you can see from the OP pics, is blurring at the edge and portions of the pipe are out of focus while other portions are sharp(er). The latter issue must have something to do with depth of field, but I've got no idea how to fix it.
Right now, my best idea is to use the smaller of the two light boxes that came with the set to get more light on the pipes and either go freehand or use a gorilla pod (small amorphous tripod) to get the camera closer.
Wallace
PS - You're always one of the guys to jump in and help out a newbie. I'd like to thank you on behalf of all us new guys. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
PSS - Great pipes!!