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So I'm trying out rustication for the first time, and I'm having a bad time of it. I'm using a rotary tool with a carbide cutter, and it's working fine on the scraps of briar left over from cutting the block down to size. But then I switch to the actual pipe, and the bit chars the wood instantly on contact. It's extremely frustrating—anyone have any ideas?

Too much rpm. Use a low-speed/high torque tool, like the Foredom LX. MUCH better control, and no burning.

That was my first thought, but like I said, no issues on the briar scraps (from the same block as the pipe). I definitely need a better rotary tool, but it's weird that it would char the pipe but work fine on the block scraps.

The tooth profile of carbide cutters isn't designed for wood, and they tend to load/clog on soft stuff. Have you tried the larger & more open tooth HSS type?

No idea why you're getting different results on scraps. If the wood is the only variable, the moisture, oil content, and so forth---something about the wood itself---must be affecting things. Rather than try to figure out what's causing that (because it will vary with every block), it would be easier just to experiment with different cutters, I think.

Otto Frei in Oakland, CA has a vast selection of rotary tips:

http://www.ottofrei.com/home.php

That's what I was going to say too - get a bigger, uglier tooth on the cutter. "Burrs" won't work at all.

Gotcha. Thanks guys!

EBay has rotary bits with very aggressive teeth. Also on the pfeifenfreun website is a simple to build hand powered rustification tool.

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as to why you have different results regarding the piece of wood: maybe the pipe has stain on it and/or has been sanded to a higher grit? I can imagine stain changing the fibre of the wood and thus making it respond differently to your tools.

Don't think tiny burr, think prison shiv.

andrew

I use the E Bay All carbide 1/8 shank, at slow speeds . They drag more than small diamond bits but as L.L. stated get the open teeth.They will cut and shape.The use of all the sanding drums shape and remove well, and they come in many grits.Run all at slow to med. speeds for best results.Do not just get carbide tips, as SAS stated they load up.Punch in cutters for dremmel tools on your computer. that brings up all of them on ebay,try Amazon too.The cutters look like little medieval weapons. Good luck.A carving glove is a good thing to own.Hope this helps.

A warning. if you use the dremmel router cutters.You will need the glove and absolute concentration.They are dangerous unless you have practiced on softer wood than briar, a good amount.Some think it still dangerous.THEY CAN HURT YOU. Thats in a split second.Needed to tell you.

pipedreamer wrote:A warning. if you use the dremmel router cutters.You will need the glove and absolute concentration.They are dangerous unless you have practiced on softer wood than briar, a good amount.Some think it still dangerous.THEY CAN HURT YOU. Thats in a split second.Needed to tell you.

I would caution against using router cutters freehand at all. I'm not a novice dremel user and I unzipped my thumb last year with one of those. I couldn't even react fast enough to save my skin... then it was gone

andrew

pipedreamer wrote:A warning. if you use the dremmel router cutters.You will need the glove and absolute concentration.They are dangerous unless you have practiced on softer wood than briar, a good amount.Some think it still dangerous.THEY CAN HURT YOU. Thats in a split second.Needed to tell you.

As can a bandsaw, lathe, sanding wheel (especially with 30 grit at 2000+ rpm) and most other tools in my shop. Personally I think my dremel is one of the safest tools I use.

You mainly have to make sure that you always place your hands in such a way that the pressure of your fingers drives the dremel AWAY from your skin should you slip. For example I tend to place my left thumb against my right thumb to generate a distance limit.

I do the same with a band saw: I "lock" my hands on the table and push the block around with only my fingers, with all of them being out of range of the blade. Should my fingers slip, none of them will actually reach far enough to be hit, whereas it might be lethal using your entire hands/wrist to move it around as a slight imbalance might result in one less hand...

About a third of the way down on this link is an explanation of "safe" and "unsafe" zones when using a rotary burr.
http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.p ... opic=24166
A good read and explanation of why and how the burr can get away form you.

I was also taught to wear a good leather glove on my hand that is holding material when using a rotary tool burr. The burr will chew up the leather, not grab it and twist it into the cutter like it will do with cotton gloves. I have been using a Dremel for stippling for about 45 years, I have replaced the glove many times, but I haven't had to bandage or go to the ER for stitches. When the burr "bites" the leather, it wakes you up and gets your attention without blood.

I usually wear one of those leather mule gloves on the hand that is holding the briar, while I'm operating the rotary tool with the other hand. Some of those bits could make a nasty gouge in one's flesh. Just a mere flesh wound, I say.

The pfeifenfreun tool required a trip to the store for me. A trip to the garage was easier, some sheet rock screws and a hose clamp with a good dab of JB weld had me good to go. Vice grips make for easy holding of the "tool" and you can make quick work of a price of briar.

rx2man wrote:The pfeifenfreun tool required a trip to the store for me. A trip to the garage was easier, some sheet rock screws and a hose clamp with a good dab of JB weld had me good to go. Vice grips make for easy holding of the "tool" and you can make quick work of a price of briar.

I bought everything I needed from the bay. Buiilt a 3/4" and a 1/4" tool using stainless steel pipe fittings and Ramset nails. Figured ss would make for a nicer looking tool though it doesn't make it any better to use. I cut the heads off the nails so more could be packed into the pipe nipples and added "Ts" to the ends for good grip/control.

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