RDPowell wrote:And I use a Popsicle stick for my sand paper, just because I have a box full of them.
I hope you ate the popsicles first
RDPowell wrote:And I use a Popsicle stick for my sand paper, just because I have a box full of them.
Only most of it, I try to leave just enough so the sandpaper sticks good.scotties22 wrote:RDPowell wrote:And I use a Popsicle stick for my sand paper, just because I have a box full of them.
I hope you ate the popsicles first
It's weird... there are indeed a number of steps, but they really don't take long under normal conditions---about ten minutes from start to finish for typical stem. So, I don't know if lots of movement that doesn't take very long is efficient or not. I think part of the reason the video looked cumbersome is because I was deliberately moving in "demo-slow" motion, plus I had to sit square to the bench while keeping my hands offset far to the left of where they'd normally be because of the camera tripod. (Talk about a sensory nightmare. Shifted off balance, muscle tension everywhere, and so forth. I had no idea going in how difficult working like that was. It's like cerebral palsy in miniature. Blows your coordination right out of the water.)wdteipen wrote:Very nice videos, George. Your method is certainly a foolproof way to get it done right every time. I do agree with Todd that it doesn't seem as efficient as it could be. That being said, my button and stemwork definitely needs improvement and the quality is hit and miss. I'll be incorporating some of your methods into my own to step up my game for sure. Thanks for taking the time in making these videos. I certainly can't argue with your results.
I started out using wood, too, but discovered it doesn't hold a sharp edge for long when used as a tool. Especially if it gets wet. So getting the razor-sharp result I was looking for wasn't possible. The only solution was using metal.RDPowell wrote:.. I use a Popsicle stick for my sand paper...
Little chance of that in this case. The "Big Three" PipeWorld argument-starters are bowls coatings, airway enlargement, and fills... and in every case the disagreement is whether they are necessary at all, not how to do them.wmolaw wrote: I ... love the discussion between guys that know what the hell they are doing so that we learn even more.
Unless, of course, it becomes a thread like the MM thread!
Same here Wayne- I feel your pain!wdteipen wrote:George, it makes sense that your process looks less efficient in a demo than it does otherwise. Unfortunately, I won't be able to make the KC show this year. I intend on entering a pipe into the contest but can't afford to go myself.
I see several 6" pillar files on their website. Which ones do you suggest?LatakiaLover wrote:My go-to source for files is Otto Frei in Oakland. Here's their file page:The Smoking Yeti wrote:Could you add a list of links to the files you're using so we can purchase them?
http://www.ottofrei.com/Files/
The dead edge models are called "pillar" files. I used several 6" demi-narrow ones for the bite zone radiusing shown in the video.
Good files are spendy, but would still be worth it at twice the price, btw. Cheap files just skid and "chew", and often have several high teeth that make them unsuitable for stem work. (Each stroke leaves several deep scratches).
The speciality 3/16" nut seating file came from Stewart-McDonald, the guitar guys:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Files ... _File.html
It is an absolute razor. An outstanding & essential piece of gear in my book.