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I would appreciate advice on making my first hand-made stem on a metal lathe. I have a stummel shaped already and it's shank has a 3/4" OD. I want the 22 mm ebonite rod stock to match if of course, and wonder if I should turn the OD of the rod stock to be close to the shank size first? Or, should i put the rod stock in full size, face and drill it, then turn the OD to match the shank OD later?

Much obliged,

Jeff

Do you see any advantages or disadvantages to either method?

I always turn the stem to match the shank diameter after I've cut the tenon and fitted it to the stummel.

Rad

I always shape the shank by hand after establishing the stem diameter and fitting it.

Rad's pipes look like Danish.

My pipes look Italian.


There's a message hidden here somewhere.

I always shape the shank by hand after establishing the stem diameter and fitting it.

Rad's pipes look like Danish.

Squatchy's pipes look Italian.

The pipes I work on look like whatever their owner wants them to.


There's a message hidden here somewhere.

@Caskwith: When I used pre-molded stems I would shape stem and stummel together with a dremel, a 1" belt sander, and hand-sanding. However, I guess that since I now have a lathe, I'm thrilled with the idea of actually being able to make something that is round, and want the shank and stem to be round until the stem tapers down for once. I think the reason I'm torn is that I'm not sure of the "best" method if there is one. FYI, this is for a straight, billiardish pipe. I guess I'm just debating whether I caliper back and forth and get close first, or just put the bad boys (stem and stummel) together and turn away. I guess either way, some type of final pass will be required whether it's on the lathe or by a hand method.

The idea of turning the rod stock to the shank OD first seems like it might have an advantage in that it could possibly reduce the risk of ruining the roundness later in that I would not have to rely upon my previous sanding methodology as much. This method also seems like it would let me do all my drilling before joining stem and stummel.

Turning the stem OD after the mortise and tenon are joined seem like a good idea too; if they're spinning on the same axis it seems like they would be easy to align. I'm just not positive if it's best to spin stummel and stem together and turn both at the same time. Also, with the "turn later" approach, I wonder if I would have to wait to drill the button side later since I may need a small and shallow center hole for live center support until the shank and stem ODs are matched. Not sure if that is a problem or not.

@Rad, do you spin stummel and stem together with a live center on the tailstock side while you turn the excess on the stem?

@Sas and Latlov, thanks for revealing your methods as well. I uncovered the hidden messages.

Roundly,

Jeff

There is no reason to turn an assembled pipe, and no benefit in doing so for probably 99% of applications.

Tapered stems taper, straight stems have a constant diameter. These things are do-able independent of being attached to the pipe.

The hidden message for those who might not have gotten it, is that you can do things however the hell you want, and what works best will depend on the kind of shape you are making.

Oh and I'm still waiting for LL to teach me how to make oval stems on the lathe. Can't wait.

Sasquatch wrote: Oh and I'm still waiting for LL to teach me how to make oval stems on the lathe. Can't wait.

You are just making that up to mess with my head onnaconna I don't know dick about lathes. You are a poor example of the usually friendly Canadisian species, Squatchy.

5277a124 wrote:@Caskwith: When I used pre-molded stems I would shape stem and stummel together with a dremel, a 1" belt sander, and hand-sanding. However, I guess that since I now have a lathe, I'm thrilled with the idea of actually being able to make something that is round, and want the shank and stem to be round until the stem tapers down for once. I think the reason I'm torn is that I'm not sure of the "best" method if there is one. FYI, this is for a straight, billiardish pipe. I guess I'm just debating whether I caliper back and forth and get close first, or just put the bad boys (stem and stummel) together and turn away. I guess either way, some type of final pass will be required whether it's on the lathe or by a hand method.

The idea of turning the rod stock to the shank OD first seems like it might have an advantage in that it could possibly reduce the risk of ruining the roundness later in that I would not have to rely upon my previous sanding methodology as much. This method also seems like it would let me do all my drilling before joining stem and stummel.

Turning the stem OD after the mortise and tenon are joined seem like a good idea too; if they're spinning on the same axis it seems like they would be easy to align. I'm just not positive if it's best to spin stummel and stem together and turn both at the same time. Also, with the "turn later" approach, I wonder if I would have to wait to drill the button side later since I may need a small and shallow center hole for live center support until the shank and stem ODs are matched. Not sure if that is a problem or not.

@Rad, do you spin stummel and stem together with a live center on the tailstock side while you turn the excess on the stem?

@Sas and Latlov, thanks for revealing your methods as well. I uncovered the hidden messages.

Roundly,

Jeff

You are definitely over-thinking this. Cut or install your tenon and fit the stummel to it. Move your cutting tool to where you're cutting the stem at the same diameter as the tenon while the stummel is attached. Remove the stummel and turn the stem.

This is not rocket surgery.

Hope this helps.

Rad

Over-thinking is my specialty, my wife agrees about this in many areas of my life. Sas, thanks for the confirmation that it will work either way. Rad, thanks for the simple summary. My machinist buddy told me that you always face, drill, then turn, in that order. I'm reluctant to drill after turning the tenon for that reason, but I guess I need to loosen up.

Cheers,

Jeff

5277a124 wrote:Over-thinking is my specialty, my wife agrees about this in many areas of my life. Sas, thanks for the confirmation that it will work either way. Rad, thanks for the simple summary. My machinist buddy told me that you always face, drill, then turn, in that order. I'm reluctant to drill after turning the tenon for that reason, but I guess I need to loosen up.

Cheers,

Jeff

"face, drill, then turn" is what I do. I've never drilled a stem after turning the tenon.

Rad

I need a drink!

RadDavis wrote:

5277a124 wrote:Over-thinking is my specialty, my wife agrees about this in many areas of my life. Sas, thanks for the confirmation that it will work either way. Rad, thanks for the simple summary. My machinist buddy told me that you always face, drill, then turn, in that order. I'm reluctant to drill after turning the tenon for that reason, but I guess I need to loosen up.

Cheers,

Jeff

"face, drill, then turn" is what I do. I've never drilled a stem after turning the tenon.

Rad

It's not about the NAIL! (GREAT video, if you haven't seen it).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4EDhdAHrOg

wmolaw wrote: It's not about the NAIL! (GREAT video, if you haven't seen it).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4EDhdAHrOg

Thread derailed! BTW, this is the funniest (and truest) video on the net right now.

My girlfriend loved it.

WMOLAW, Great video, You hit the nail on the head. Very perceptive.

Misread Rad's post and started turning stem OD while stem was attached to a chucked stummel. Now I realize I should have fit the stummel to the chucked stem, taken OFF the stummel, then turned the stem. The stem was looking fine while facing/drilling/turning the tenon. After i Rechucked it and turned the rest of the OD, the wobble and off center ugliness was present (stem and shank were not flush all the way around). Since then, I read about a dude who trues his rod stock before starting. Cosidering this, was my final result off center due to

1) My errant turning method alone, or

2) Do folks true their rod stock before starting as well?

5277a124 wrote: Now I realize I should have fit the stummel to the chucked stem, taken OFF the stummel, then turned the stem.

Bingo!

Rad

That's what I get for starting at 11:30pm last night after a long day with small children.

Know what that's like!