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hello guys,
i am trying to get this color on m'y pipe...
and i dont know , how...
and how it get so smooth ? does he use shellac ?

thanks !!



and for this one to ..

Uh... well I'll hazard a guess.

The first pipe may be stained with a color similar to Fiebing's Light Tan.

The second picture isn't very good so it's tough to get an accurate idea of the color.

Both are almost certainly applied successively after each grit of sandpaper. That type of color and definition would be very difficult to do in a single stage of staining.

--K

that ikebana looks to have a yellow water based top stain, probably tan (as Huber said) as the undercoat, sanded back

wisemanpipes wrote:that ikebana looks to have a yellow water based top stain, probably tan (as Huber said) as the undercoat, sanded back

Yup. Or something close to it.

This shit is magic, btw. Can be diluted with either water or alcohol. If asked to replicate that Ikebana, I'd reach for the Antique Amber, and use it full (concentrated) strength---letting each coat dry then strip the excess on a lightly rouged wheel---repeating until the desired depth was reached.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_s ... tains.html

you would apply stain, then buff using rouge compound, then apply more stain? interesting i thought buffing with tripoli glossed the surface over too much for subsequent stain to soak in so i've always used some dull 400 or 600 grit to hand sand in between coats. never used rouge compound just brown trip and white diamond.

mcgregorpipes wrote:you would apply stain, then buff using rouge compound, then apply more stain? interesting i thought buffing with tripoli glossed the surface over too much for subsequent stain to soak in.

I usually "sand back" with the trip wheel when the shape doesn't have any hard lines, and also when I don't mind bleeding (as in not a high contrast).

when I want a yellow and brown contrast, I use previously used wet 800 grit

I think Neerup pipes (peter jeppson?) uses a buffing wheel to create his contrasts. They often end up blotchier than if he were to hand sand, but when you make 2000 pipes a year, I guess you have to be fast and efficient.

mcgregorpipes wrote:you would apply stain, then buff using rouge compound, then apply more stain? interesting i thought buffing with tripoli glossed the surface over too much for subsequent stain to soak in so i've always used some dull 400 or 600 grit to hand sand in between coats. never used rouge compound just brown trip and white diamond.

That was the procedure I use for that particular stuff, in that particular color. Antique Amber, #5030. It's insanely concentrated, and used straight will get through/past any glossing. Feibing's and related can't be handled that way.

[quote="LatakiaLover It's insanely concentrated, and used straight will get through/past any glossing. Feibing's and related can't be handled that way.[/quote]
what is this "glossing" your talking about. ive never had glossing before when Ive applied a top coat...

using a buffing wheel is just inaccurate to create high contrast, it doesn't clog up the briar from being able to absorb stain.

wisemanpipes wrote:[quote="LatakiaLover It's insanely concentrated, and used straight will get through/past any glossing. Feibing's and related can't be handled that way.

what is this "glossing" your talking about. ive never had glossing before when Ive applied a top coat...

using a buffing wheel is just inaccurate to create high contrast, it doesn't clog up the briar from being able to absorb stain.[/quote]
I think we might have a little confusion here. I don't think "glossing" is probably the right word, greasing might be more appropriate. Some dyes are suspended/disolved a strong solvent that cuts through the carrier in the buffing compound (wax, grease, etc). It's best not to count on this cutting action if you can avoid it.

andrew

Trying to untangle terminology and techniques at this point would be more work that it's worth.

All I'm saying is that the finish on the Ikebana in that photo is what you'll end up with using the stain and method I described. It's a favorite of mine and I've done it many times.

LatakiaLover wrote:Trying to untangle terminology and techniques at this point would be more work that it's worth.

A large part of my day is spent untangling terminology... it's my go to .

andrew

wisemanpipes wrote:using a buffing wheel is just inaccurate to create high contrast...

Sorry Evan, but this is inaccurate. I do all my contrast stains this way.

UberHuberMan wrote:

wisemanpipes wrote:using a buffing wheel is just inaccurate to create high contrast...

Sorry Evan, but this is inaccurate. I do all my contrast stains this way.

This technique definitely CAN work for contrast staining. However, you often will run into issues with keeping a consistent stain around hard edges. Also, depending on your finishing technique, the added grease from the compound can also be an issue. It depends. For me personally I prefer the control I have with 800 and 1000 grit sandpapers.

is there any downside to sanding back black or dark brown on your trip wheel? thinking this would turn the wheel into a black paint roller
i've only done a few contrast stains, my procedure was stain black a couple times sanding back with 400 or 600 grit abranet on a soft sanding wheel, then top stain sanded back by hand carefully, 1 lb cut shellac wiped off before it dried to set stain then buff. you're still sanding the dark color or are you sanding up to finished grit then buffing in between top coats?

i might not make 2000 pipes a year but i'm an efficiency junky and some days hand sanding makes me want to build a "hand sanding" machine

mcgregorpipes wrote:is there any downside to sanding back black or dark brown on your trip wheel? thinking this would turn the wheel into a black paint roller
i've only done a few contrast stains, my procedure was stain black a couple times sanding back with 400 or 600 grit abranet on a soft sanding wheel, then top stain sanded back by hand carefully, 1 lb cut shellac wiped off before it dried to set stain then buff. you're still sanding the dark color or are you sanding up to finished grit then buffing in between top coats?

i might not make 2000 pipes a year but i'm an efficiency junky and some days hand sanding makes me want to build a "hand sanding" machine

I think Micah covered them. When you first start doing it, you're liable to get inconsistent results especially towards hard edges. It does darken up your tripoli wheel, but I haven't had any issues with the color transferring to lighter pipes. Maybe I've been lucky.

Also, just to clarify, I didn't mean to say that the buffing method is clearly better because I do it. It's a method that works and it was not developed by me. There are a lot of high end makers out there who use this method to great success.

In short, it is entirely possible to achieve an excellent high contrast by buffing off the undercoat. Like anything else, it just takes practice.

mcgregorpipes wrote:is there any downside to sanding back black or dark brown on your trip wheel?

It is very easy to over buff and get the wavy-surface, Peterson effect. Doesnt' really matter how you get the result though, just as long as you can do it quickly and well.

For me it depends on the wood, some pieces allow me to get a good contrast using the buffing wheel, others require a bit of hand sanding before the buffing. Some are a pain in the ass and refuse to create a contrast. Today I got lucky, gorgeous piece of wood and the contrast showed beautifully with a light buffing leaving me with a smooth non-wavy finish.

Getting back to the OP, I've achieved the color of the first pipe by staining with a light brown, hand sanding with worn out 600 grit to lighten it up a bit and highlight the grain, then a single pass of yellow with a pipe cleaner followed by diluted shellac.

On my computer, the second pipe looks orange. So, that may have had a light brown then orange.

Anyone here use orange?

BobR wrote:
Anyone here use orange?

I did once. Ernie didn't like it.

Rad