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I'm a little surprised at the straight sides on the cutters. I usually taper my chambers from about 7/8" down to about 5/8" at the start of the bottom curve. I've seen a lot of commercial pipes with a taper down to maybe 1/2" or less, but I never liked the experience of smoking that last little plug.
Could I hear some opinions on this?

keilwerth wrote:I think it's time for me to try using a french wheel, this one looks like something I'd like to have in my shop. I understand it only comes as a flat disc, no convex ones?

It is slightly curved convex on the outer portion.

I have a quick question concerning the military kit. The brass tubing that is supplied with the kit, I noticed in the pic has teeth cut into it for obviously making the brass sleeve that would be set into the shank. How deep should you set that brass ring/sleeve? Is 3/8 the correct depth or should it be set in deeper or shallower? Also does anyone know exactly what the degree of taper for the bit is?

N.Burnsworth wrote:I have a quick question concerning the military kit. The brass tubing that is supplied with the kit, I noticed in the pic has teeth cut into it for obviously making the brass sleeve that would be set into the shank. How deep should you set that brass ring/sleeve? Is 3/8 the correct depth or should it be set in deeper or shallower? Also does anyone know exactly what the degree of taper for the bit is?

I only go in about 1/8" to 3/16". I am not sure of the exact taper of J. Alan's bit, I think it is 2 degrees. The taper could be slightly less or more, but the J. Alan bits are so good, I won't use anything else.

Thanks Premal, I was just wondering so I know what degree to cut my tenons. The J.Alan bits are very nice! I'm about to put them to use here in a bit. I prefer a bit more taper on the chamber bits, but I picked up a 7/8 for making large chamber straights. Really wish I could make it to the meet up at your shop! I'm only an hour and a half away, but it just so happens to be going on the same day as my sons birthday party. Maybe next year. I'm starting to feel like the browns

What might be the benefit of the J Alan french wheel over a velcro faced sanding disk? $100 vs $10 is a pretty big difference.

N.Burnsworth wrote:Thanks Premal, I was just wondering so I know what degree to cut my tenons. The J.Alan bits are very nice! I'm about to put them to use here in a bit. I prefer a bit more taper on the chamber bits, but I picked up a 7/8 for making large chamber straights. Really wish I could make it to the meet up at your shop! I'm only an hour and a half away, but it just so happens to be going on the same day as my sons birthday party. Maybe next year. I'm starting to feel like the browns

If you find yourself in Columbus or just want to make a trip here, please let me know (call) and I will make time to meet with you.

DeflictedPipes wrote:What might be the benefit of the J Alan french wheel over a velcro faced sanding disk? $100 vs $10 is a pretty big difference.

French wheels are specially made for optimal pipe shaping in detail. Velcro sanding disc can work if you are very skilled. Sandpaper by hand will work too.

PremalChheda wrote:

N.Burnsworth wrote:Thanks Premal, I was just wondering so I know what degree to cut my tenons. The J.Alan bits are very nice! I'm about to put them to use here in a bit. I prefer a bit more taper on the chamber bits, but I picked up a 7/8 for making large chamber straights. Really wish I could make it to the meet up at your shop! I'm only an hour and a half away, but it just so happens to be going on the same day as my sons birthday party. Maybe next year. I'm starting to feel like the browns

If you find yourself in Columbus or just want to make a trip here, please let me know (call) and I will make time to meet with you.

Thank you for the invitation, I will definitely call you. I finally traded in the gas guzzlers and bought a new car that gets 38mpg hwy. it'll cost me $30 instead of $100 to make the trip down. LOL

Hey Guys,

Thanks to Ernie for starting this thread. I appreciate it, man! And thanks to all of you for your interest in the products. I just posted a few videos to my youtube channel about them. Hopefully they answer many of the questions that have been asked. Here are the videos.







Thanks for watching!

I'm not seeing Jeff's videos, but I'm on an ipad. They coming through for everyone else?

They were earlier, now suddenly I'm not seeing them. They were youtube vids, so maybe you can find them there.

I fixed it. Somehow the links were changed after I submitted them. Hmm...

jeff wrote:I fixed it. Somehow the links were changed after I submitted them. Hmm...

I screwed it up. It didn't work when I first checked the thread, so I "fixed" your links. When that didn't work I realized my iPad might be the problem. My bad.

Engineer, pipemaker, pastor, AND Ninja editor?! That's quite a list of talents, sir.

Hi Jeff,
just wanted to say thank you for sharing the videos with everyone. I suspected the procedure for the military bit was as you demonstrated. I like to be 100% with everything I do and you came through for those of us that were unsure or just didn't have a clue. I really enjoy using your tooling design with confidence and will continue to purchase your product.

Thanks again!

Jeff, great videos thx.

Does anyone have the wheels in stock that I could order one/some from?


Sent from my banana phone.

jeff wrote:Engineer, pipemaker, pastor, AND Ninja editor?! That's quite a list of talents, sir.

Clearly my ninja skills are sub-par.

Red wrote:I'm a little surprised at the straight sides on the cutters. I usually taper my chambers from about 7/8" down to about 5/8" at the start of the bottom curve. I've seen a lot of commercial pipes with a taper down to maybe 1/2" or less, but I never liked the experience of smoking that last little plug.
Could I hear some opinions on this?

I usually have straight sided chambers unless the outside shape of the bowl dictates otherwise. What do you use for drilling your chamber Rad? Spade bits? S&D? or do you Bore them on the lathe?

Tyler wrote:

jeff wrote:Engineer, pipemaker, pastor, AND Ninja editor?! That's quite a list of talents, sir.

Clearly my ninja skills are sub-par.

Practice makes perfect. I think you'd make an excellent, if not conspicuous, ninja.

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