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I've made several and it is definitely a love it or hate it concept.
My personal opinion is that the theory works BUT IT IS NOT DRAMATIC.
Based on the way I smoke a pipe, I find the smoke to be a little cooler and a little drier.
I put a Delrin liner in the expansion chambers which makes them super easy to clean.

Ccoolee,
My original comment on this thread.
Delrin works.
Chas.

I reamed out a piece of 1/2" delrin to a 7/16" inside diameter and used that as a sleeve inside a shank that had been drilled out to 1/2" and then used 7/16" delrin for the tenon. By my calculations that left the liner tube with 1/32" thick walls. I haven't smoked it yet but can't see why this wont work other than it slightly reduces the second chamber volume.

I reamed out a piece of 1/2" delrin to a 7/16" inside diameter and used that as a sleeve inside a shank that had been drilled out to 1/2" and then used 7/16" delrin for the tenon. By my calculations that left the liner tube with 1/32" thick walls. I haven't smoked it yet but can't see why this wont work other than it slightly reduces the second chamber volume.

I've not tried any retro-fits yet. I use a slightly flexible epoxy to attach the Delrin to the briar so that any expansion and contraction won't break the bond. I've been smoking the prototype for the one in the pics for close to a year and it has become my favorite shop pipe. While the pipe is on the lathe I bore the shank and install a solid rod then drill it out to form the chamber. Soooo easy to clean.
Chas.

Thanks chas, I did see that, sorry. Wow, yacht,1/32 walls. How thick are the shank walls? It looks great! I imagine the delrin once epoxied in would strengthen the shank as well?


Sent from my banana phone.

The shank is 11/16 at the end where it meets the stem but flare out toward the bowl to 13/16. The chamber depth is 1.45"

I roughed up the outside of the delrin sleeve using a coping saw just to give the surface a little tooth for the epoxy to grab.

Since this was a retro-fit I am curious as to how you held the pipe during the process of boring the shank without buggering things up.
Chas.

This shank was drilled out to 1/2" originally. I was planning a 1/2 delrin tenon. As the shank walls were a bit thin at the end, I decided to insert the 1/2 delrin rod drilled out 7/16 to make a delrin sleeve for a 7/16 delrin tenon. Delrin on delrin makes for a nice snug but smoothly adjustable fit.

oklahoma red wrote:Since this was a retro-fit I am curious as to how you held the pipe during the process of boring the shank without buggering things up.
Chas.

Safely and accurately holding delicate, irregularly shaped stummels and similar is one of pipe repair's biggest insanity inducers. It can always be done, but sometimes the juice ain't worth the squeeze.

It's easier most of the time to do an end run. In this case, use spiral flute chucking reamers so the work can be hand held. Start with the first one that won't fit, and end when the hole is the size you want. Piece of cake.

Just curious George what advantage the spiral fluted reamers have over the straight fluted variety. Also, sometimes is is useful to have a set of over and under reamers that are + and - 1/1000

yachtexplorer wrote:Just curious George what advantage the spiral fluted reamers have over the straight fluted variety. Also, sometimes is is useful to have a set of over and under reamers that are + and - 1/1000

Spirals are easier to get started cleanly when used by hand, and leave a smoother finish than straights as a categorical thing.

I mostly use them to fix messed up mortises (mortii?) on older pipes.

The over/under thing is mostly so machinists can create slip fits and interference fits between metal parts. Haven't found a way in repair work that they'd be of much use when working with wood or rubber/plastic. Pipe makers who use standardized tenon/mortise sizes might, though, to "tune" a mortise before removing the stummel from the lathe.

George, that is precisely where I have found the over/under reamers to be of good use...in getting just the right fit for a delrin tenon. I start with the 1/1000 under and work my way up (if needed) to the best balance between snug and easily squared up.

Sorry to bring this back up if people were done. I just noticed the thread. I figured I would show you guys some second chamber pipes. These are personal pipes.
The two on the bottom are a typical size that most people buy.
The two at the top are the pipes I like to smoke the most.
I try to keep the wall thickness of the air chamber between 1/8 and 3/32 of an inch.
The pipe in the middle has an internal volume of about 270 CC.

anthony

If any of you are not familiar with Anthony, I will tell you he has skill sets that put most to shame. He is a true turner and some of his works will astound. He chases threads like few are able to do and his ability to turn to fractions of an inch is astounding.
The photos he shows are a testament. I've seen those pipes and they are extremely light and the wall thickness is crazy thin.
Anthony makes a TRUE reverse calabash (second chamber) pipe.

BAW speaks truth.

Anthony the Woodturning Ninja is a friend of mine and lives nearby, so I've seen many of the pipes he's made over the past three years (which is when I moved to KC).

The pipes in the photo are completely hollow like a christmas ornament, and not much heavier. The average wall thickness of the cooling chamber is around 5/64".

If that sounds easy, give it a go and let the board know how it turns out (no pun intended).

If you have any advanced turning questions, now is the time to bring 'em out.

(No need to ask if he keeps his tools sharp, Sandahl. I assure you he does.)

Welcome to the fracas Anthony. I enjoyed talking with you in KC. These may not be everyone's cup of tea but there is absolutely no denying the craftsmanship. They are a marvel of wood turning. Hats off to you.
Chas.

I do remember seeing pipes like these before. Maybe one day I will be able to see them in person. I wondered how he made such a bulbous cooling chamber. Much more difficult than I had originally thought.

sandahlpipe wrote:I wondered how he made such a bulbous cooling chamber. Much more difficult than I had originally thought.

I know he made a detailed video of the process, but it doesn't seem to be on YooToob. Maybe he will post a link here. (AH, are you listening?)

I'm impressed. The workmanship and precision is remarkable. Anthony must also be a really nice guy seeing how everyone speaks so well of him and his turning skills.

I'm not impressed by the pipes though. I'm sure they work very well, but aesthetically they are not pleasing at all.
I'm aware that the reverse calabash function dictates a certain shaping style, but in my personal opinion, with just a little bit of extra work (which would surely be a walk in the park for Anthony) these pipes could look much, much better.
Their organic look may be appealing to some people, but tighter shaping and cleaner lines would make these pipes real masterpieces.

Anyway, it's great to have you on board Anthony, I'm sure many of us can learn a lot from you.

Damn I really like the 2nd chamber bulldogs and the full bent and the....this probably the first time I wished I had (and feel bad I don't) have a couple thousand dollars squirreled away so I could go on shopping spree... baccyflap

I do have a question though how do you do the threads so they don't get ruined by regular expansions and moisture variations and such?

d.Huber, That's a very nice pipe, Well thought out! John.