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Hello everyone. First of, I did a bit of searching on the forum but didn't find anything, so if this is the most common question in the world I must be really bad at using the search-function. Anyway, to the question: I have a problem that I discovered while smoking one of my pipes outdoors on a rainy day. My hand got all red (the pipe is stained red), and this is not something you want to happen, so the question is simply: How do I prevent this from happening?

This is my process, since I usually do contrast staining I'll describe that process:

-Shape pipe and all that.
-Completely sand pipe (usually up to 1000 grit (I know someone will think it is unnesesery to sand that high)).
-Put on feibings leather dye black, and let dry for about a day.
-sand back black stain untill it's only black in the grain (again 1000 grit).
-Apply top stain (also feibings leather dye) and let dry for about a day.
-Buff and wax.

I should mention that the pipe I smoked on the rainy day did have a water based top stain, but today I tried the above mentioned process on a piece of scrap, put water on my finger, and rubbed the scrap piece, and I did get stain on my finger.
I know you usually don't rubb you pipes like a mad man, but I don't want the stain to be able to come off my pipes. Or will the stain come off anybodys pipes if you rubb it with a wet finger? Cause in that case I guess that's just how it is.


Best regards,
Albert

most people use a sealer ie. shellac, Danish oil or French polish.

but im sure if you rubbed anybodys pipe with a wet finger, it will tarnish the finish.

wisemanpipes wrote:most people use a sealer ie. shellac, Danish oil or French polish.

This. I start staining at 400 grit. You get a little better penetration of the stain. It's not wrong to stain after higher grits but you'll likely want to seal the stain with a thin coat of shellac or Danish oil. If you do a search on shellac or Danish oil you should get specifics on how to apply and suggestions on how to cut your shellac, etc.

Ok, thanks guys. But Wayne, if you start staining at 400, wouldn't you just sand that stain completely of when you sand with the following grit, or does some stain remain? And do you stain after every grit past 400? And about shellac, isn't that one of those things some swear by, and others simply will not accept a pipe that has been shellaced because they think it seals the wood (buyers I mean)? Of course that's not a problem for me at this point since I have only sold my pipes to close friends that know absolutely nothing about pipes, but it would be good to know if I one day would happen to sell a pipe to someone that knows some about pipes

Albert.A wrote:Ok, thanks guys. But Wayne, if you start staining at 400, wouldn't you just sand that stain completely of when you sand with the following grit, or does some stain remain? And do you stain after every grit past 400? And about shellac, isn't that one of those things some swear by, and others simply will not accept a pipe that has been shellaced because they think it seals the wood (buyers I mean)? Of course that's not a problem for me at this point since I have only sold my pipes to close friends that know absolutely nothing about pipes, but it would be good to know if I one day would happen to sell a pipe to someone that knows some about pipes

I typically lay down my contrast stain after 400 then sand 600 then top coat stains (however many coats for the effect I'm after.) After that, you're buffing with red tripoli which is 400 grit so what's the point of sanding to much higher grits. I sand my stems up to 800 grit to remove the micro scratches that the red tripoli can accentuate.

As for shellac and Danish oil, when it's cut and applied properly, it isn't a sealant. It sets the stain. You apply it then wipe it off or use a French polish method. Practically every reputable professional pipemaker uses one or the other and it's how they get a mirror finish on smooth pipes. It's also how sandblasted and rusticated pipes get a more finished and less dull look.

Aha, I see. I feel much better informed now. Much appreciated!

Great stuff to know. Thanks Wayne.